The Sewing Place

stand up collars

Alangus

stand up collars
« on: January 08, 2019, 15:20:14 PM »
I'm in the middle of creating stand up collars for a couple of leotards and am just wondering what you all think of my construction plan - and if anyone has any better way to do it. 

These collars will be open, rather than the type that encircle the neck. Ive attached two photos of Polina Schmatko and Ksenya Moustafaeva in leotards with collars that are a little bit similar to what I am aiming for in terms of the open front but mine will be simpler!. (These amazing leotards were made by the Russian designer/maker Svetlana Gerasimova).

One will be a bit like a mandarin collar that is open at the front - very simple. The other leotard is to have applique like petals and giuypure lace that stand up against the sides and back of the neck but open at the front. I dont want to applique onto full mesh collar as the gymnast wants it open at the front.  I know how to pattern cut colllars, how to pattern cut and sew for stretch and how to work with appliques and some 3d elements but Ive not made a collar like that on a leotard before and just wanted a second opinion.

My plan is just to create a base 3/4 width collar in two layers of lycra and some powermesh and to use that as the base. I will draft it with some -ve ease - maybe 5 - 10 % but not too much since it will be open. However I think it needs some -ve ease so that it will stand up against the neck. I was thinking to attach it in the normal way for a stretch collar - giving it a bit of stretch when sewing it on and topstitching the seam to the leotard to help the collar stand up.  What do you think?

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« Last Edit: January 08, 2019, 15:25:11 PM by Alangus »

BrendaP

Re: stand up collars
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2019, 21:29:32 PM »
First of all I've never made a leotard, so this is all guesswork theory,  I don't think you will need any negative ease.

With a common old round neck tee shirt, the neck band needs to be stretched (negative ease) to make if lie flat and cling to the body.  If there isn't enough negative ease it will stand out away from the body; but that is what you actually want for the back of the collar so that it stand away from the upper back and thus parallel with the back of the neck.

Also if the collar is open at the front and there is negative ease in the collar then it will try to relax/shrink and pull the body of the leotard with it.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Yellowfeather

Re: stand up collars
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2019, 13:37:26 PM »
Hi Al, I am sure what you are suggesting sounds fine.  It is what i have done in the past, only without the powermesh.  I assume the powermesh is for the appliques to attach too??  You will need the negative ease as otherwise it will stretch out when you sew it, as I am sure you are already aware, and the top stitching will help it stay in the right direction! :D