The Sewing Place

Plackets - any tips please

sewingj

Plackets - any tips please
« on: February 09, 2019, 12:02:15 PM »
I`ve just finished this nightshirt
https://butterick.mccall.com/b6531
which has a placket for the front opening

This was about my 4th attempt at a placket and I`m never very happy with the finish.  I`m always nervous of cutting into the "v" too much and ending up with a hole but instead I get lots of wrinkles round the bottom corners (in the main fabric, not in the placket itself)

Some serious pressing does help but I`m just wondering if anyone has any other tips?

p.s. if anyone likes the look of the pattern be warned - it comes up absolutely enormous - according to my measurements I should fit a Large but in fact Small is fine

« Last Edit: February 09, 2019, 12:04:28 PM by sewingj »

toileandtrouble

Re: Plackets - any tips please
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2019, 12:27:58 PM »
Do you staystitch round the placket edge before you start?  It makes you more confident when you snip to the corners.
I rather like the continuous placket you get on shirt sleeves.  If you ever get a chance to unpick an old shirt, take a look, it is very neat. Sometimes I change a placket to one similar, because I like the look.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Ohsewsimple

Re: Plackets - any tips please
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2019, 13:00:38 PM »
Always use a light interfacing and snip right to the corners with sharp scissors.  Don’t be tempted not to go to the point or you will get the puckers or wrinkles.  And always practice first on your fabric with the same interfacing.  That way you’ll know how it will behave.

sewingj

Re: Plackets - any tips please
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2019, 07:54:54 AM »
Thanks . Yes I do staystitch and I do interface - but possibly the interfacing is too stuff. @Ohsewsimple  would you use a stretch interfacing when doing a placket in Jersey?

Morgan

Re: Plackets - any tips please
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2019, 12:51:14 PM »

Ohsewsimple

Re: Plackets - any tips please
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2019, 14:21:16 PM »
@sewingj I would be inclined to use a non knit so that it doesn’t stretch.  I tend to use fine sheer fusible a lot even on knits.  I like it because it doesn’t alter the handle of the fabric.  It is stable one way and has slight stretch the other.  I would make sure the non stretch is running downwards so that the placket is stabilised.  As it’s such a small area I don’t think it needs a knit interfacing and I think a non stretchy one would make it easier to handle.  You could always do a test piece to see how it behaves.  That’s what I would do. A very heavy drapey knit might just pull it down a bit and in that case you might need a knit.  It’s all trial and error isn’t it?   :)