The Sewing Place

Pattern sizing

sewmuchmore

Pattern sizing
« on: February 11, 2019, 09:36:06 AM »
Just doing an aide memoir for some one new to patterns and wondered if you could make use of it.

Sorry cannot seem to upload a word doc so I have cut and pasted

PATTERN SIZING
   
The big four: Butterick, McCall’s, Simplicity and Vogue.

•   McCall’s and Simplicity run larger than Butterick and Vogue.
•   Patterns from all 4 are large through upper chest, from neckline to bottom or armhole. If you select a pattern using full bust measurement you will end up with too much fabric in upper chest area. = frumpy look.
•   Pick a pattern size with a bust measurement that matches your upper bust i.e. measure around the body immediately below the arm pit.
•   If your measurement falls between sizes choose  smaller size if you have small bust and larger size if bust is full.
•   Compare your full bust measurement with that on the pattern and adjust if needed.

New Look, Todays Fit, Stretch and Sew and Kwik-sew

•   Run true to measurements so buy according to full bust measurement.

Burda

•   Also run true but they are wide at the shoulder so grade your pattern. Cut one size smaller from neckline to armhole. (2 if you have very narrow shoulders).
•   They also tend to run short in the crotch

Independent Pattern companies

•   All use different measurement so measure the flat pattern carefully or/and make up a toile first.
•   Alternatively pin fit the pattern to yourself. You may need help to do this.

Choose a skirt or trouser pattern by your hip size. It is easier to alter the waistline than the side seam. Add or remove darts to get a good fit.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2019, 09:40:50 AM by sewmuchmore »
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet

Greybird

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2019, 09:52:31 AM »
That's really useful. I'm going to send a copy to my daughter. At the moment she says she doesn't think she can tackle clothing but I think she'll change her mind!

BrendaP

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2019, 10:18:46 AM »
According to Palmer-Pletch's 'Fit for Real People' page 249, Vogue and Butterick use an identical set of bodice blocks and Simplicity and McCalls use very similar blocks to the other two.  It's the amount of fashion ease which varies.  In my experience Vogue tend to run big
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Efemera

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2019, 10:25:31 AM »
Useful ....thank you

Sewot

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2020, 12:21:56 PM »
I wish to goodness that these companies got together and standardised the sizing so that we stand some sane chance of making a garment that fits.
You are all used to this but for a newbie it is an absolute night mare choosing the right sized pattern.
It should be dead simple.
Your actual measurements, neck, bust, waist, hip, but they have to make it difficult by being US, European blah blah.
Its insane.

jintie

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2020, 19:13:47 PM »
 And as @Manuela says, start measuring from the shoulders.
Rottweiler with scissors

Manuela

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2020, 00:18:30 AM »
And as @Manuela says, start measuring from the shoulders.
@jintie, not measuring, start fitting from the shoulders  :)

Puzzler

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2022, 07:27:33 AM »
Here is a link for a pretty comprehensive list I pinched from the Pattern Review forum. Some new-to-me pattern companies listed. Love a good indie.

https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height

I am particularly interested in companies drafting for shorter people. DD2 and I measured our heights recently. The menopause, I presume, is to blame for my 2 inch loss in height. I now stand (or semi-stoop thanks to my sedentary lifestyle) at 5ft 1 1/2 inches.


Ohsewsimple

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2022, 12:09:52 PM »
@Puzzler That’s a really useful chart and some interesting info to read later. Thanks for that. 
As another who is vertically challenged it seems there aren’t a lot of patterns on offer.  One reason I do my own. 

Kad

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #9 on: June 15, 2022, 12:33:56 PM »
There's even fewer patterns drafted for 6' and taller. Even those very few patterns drafted for 5'10" have to be altered for DD and me  :(
'Jill' of many aspects of sewing, "Mistress" of few.

Puzzler

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #10 on: June 15, 2022, 20:30:36 PM »
Sounds like there’s a gap in the market, @Kad.

mudcat

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2022, 21:16:31 PM »
The weird thing is that the average height of women in the US is only 5'3-4" feet so I've never understood why so many are made for those much taller.  Evidently European women have an average height of 5'6" though that probably varies amongst countries from what I could see when traveling.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2022, 21:18:26 PM by mudcat »

Ouryve

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2022, 23:37:23 PM »
Definitely not in our bit of Europe! Dutch and German women are tall, though!


And I agree with the comments in the post, though. I peaked atv5'5, measured 5'4 10 years ago and I'm probably a little shorter, now. Tops are usually fine for length, though I usually have to add a smidge to waistband length ones. I always have to shorten sleeves and legs, though. Sometimes it's 6" off legs.
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

BrendaP

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #13 on: June 16, 2022, 00:13:32 AM »
I've always thought that the average for women in UK was 5'4".

I was 5' 6½" in my twenties and I'm still 5' 6½"  twenty years post meopause!  I do recall many years ago the GP looked at me and said "you're not the build to get osteoporosis".  Seems he was right.  0_0

I have a very straight back and my height is in the torso, my arms and legs are average.  It's a  long time since I bought any RTW trousers, but generally it was better to buy long/tall and take the legs up because that way I got a little extra length in the crutch.  Jumpsuits and the like in RTW are definitely not for me, always painfully far too short. :o  Besides even if they fitted it's such an impractical garment.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Dillyduck

Re: Pattern sizing
« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2023, 20:36:55 PM »
If you are long in the torso, whereabouts?  It took me ages to realise that I was taller than average from shoulder to armpit.  Now using a multisize pattern I use the size 24 shoulder seam, 18 from shoulder to armpit, and 24 side seams for my extra large rib cage.  So much more comfortable!  I never worry about my bust measurement, as I only wear a B cup!