Girls vs Boys

[snoozi soozi]

I'm constructing a shirt toile which has a pleat in the back piece just under the yoke. The pattern doesn't specify which side to insert the pleat (r/s or w/s) but I'll put it on the r/s anyway. It got me thinking that we always see men's shirts with the pleat the other way, anyone know why this is? 

[coffeeandcake]

Hmm.  I made a couple of Grainline Archer shirts last year.  On the first I inverted the pleat to the inside but didn't like it, though having used the burrito method for yoke I wasn't going to undo it.  On the second I put the pleat the other way round so that the pleat sat on the outside - much nicer, I think.  DH's shirts have their pleats on the outside. I know that's not an answer to your question; I've always assumed its to do with comfort.

[crafter]

I think the design of the shirt you are making is called an 'Oxford'.  If so, the pleat is a box pleat at the back, and often and self fabric hanger above it.

I know, I iron about a dozen a week.  I have been looking for a pattern for a long time so would appreciate knowing which pattern yours is.

[snoozi soozi]

@crafter, my shirt has an inverted box pleat, is that correct, where you don't see the actual 'boxing', if that makes sense..?

It's the Sarah shirt by By Hand London - free with the latest Simply Sewing mag

[sewmuchmore]

@snoozi soozi I have that pattern on my to do pile so will watch your progress with interest.

[BrendaP]

I've just had a quick look through the wardrobe and all the shirts which have the pleat have it as a box pleat, with the two pleats about 2-3 cm apart pointing away from each other.  However, if you think it would look better I don't see any reason why you couldn't make it as an inverted box pleat with the two pleats coming together in the centre.

[snoozi soozi]

@BrendaP The pics on the pattern envelope show an inverted pleat and it definitely looks better this way
@sewmuchmore It's going ok so far, just got the yoke on and am about to do side seams. I'm not in a hurry so please be patient, plus I always have at least three things on the go when I'm in action 

[snoozi soozi]

@sewmuchmore I've managed to get going on this shirt and the results so far: traced and cut the pattern to sz 14, the short sleeves to sz 16. Got one sleeve and cuff on but cannot get it far enough up my sausage arm - where did my slim toned biceps go?    Also a little tight when I stretch forward.  On the other side without the sleeve it fits pretty much ok, therefore I would say on the whole it's true to size - my first By Hand London pattern. So back to the beginning with a lot of tweaking of the upper part of the shirt, after measuring the pattern sleeve I'm going to increase that by 3 sizes -looser better than tighter, right? The fabric I have in mind for this shirt is lawn and 'peachskin' polyester together - long story, we'll go into that later.

[sewmuchmore]

@snoozi soozi thanks for info, I haven't used this brand before so useful to know, although it may be a while before I get round to it.

[WildAtlanticWay]

@snoozi soozi  Thank you for posting this. I was looking at that pattern last night and wondering if it was something I could do at my sewing class this afternoon, assuming I have enough fabric?

I now completely understand about UFO’s as I have 2 of them. 
I started a top 3 weeks ago then had to wait for my order of stretchy interfacing to arrive. Yesterday, I discovered when cutting out the interfacing that I hadn’t read the pattern instructions properly and so didn’t cut enough fabric for the yoke and I’m 2 pieces short and I can’t find my left over material! There wasn’t much left over anyway so even if I do find it, I might not be able to cut the pieces out.  Plan B: I’m thinking of looking out for a contrast fabric for the neckline. 
It’s so frustrating because everything has to be ordered online.

My second UFO is a pair of simple stretchy waistband cotton trousers that I cut out in the morning and then sewed last week in the class. I thought I was doing well! I still don’t have any elastic for the waistband as I’m not sure what I need to order and forgot to ask the tutor, so will ask her advice this afternoon.

[snoozi soozi]

@WildAtlanticWay it might be a good one to take to your sewing class as I found it a little tricky in places, mainly the collar and placket. Forgive me, I don't know how advanced your skills are, but I've only attempted a couple of collars before and they didn't look very tidy, so I'm going to try very hard with this one  .

As for UFOs I don't have any idea what you're talking about 

[WildAtlanticWay]

@WildAtlanticWay
As for UFOs I don't have any idea what you're talking about 

Oh, I read about UFO’s on here.    = Unfinished Objects.
I normally like to complete a house project (decorating etc.) but now I can understand why it isn’t always possible, if you’re missing a few important items, or you lose interest perhaps.

SWAKOP.  - sewing with a kind of purpose.
I like this one too. 

[toileandtrouble]

Is the yoke double? Would you have enough to make the top layer of yoke in the proper fabric but do the lining side in something else?  (perhaps from a scrap shirt or something? You could make a feature of doing the inside of the neck band, if it is on a band, in the different material)

[snoozi soozi]

I'll answer your questions but I've posted on here needing help with this project.

@toileandtrouble The yoke is a double yoke but the collar doesn't have a stand, it's like a peter pan collar.

@WildAtlanticWay Sorry for my sarcasm I do know what UFOs are, I was displaying blissful ignorance - I have a good few   

[toileandtrouble]

@snoozi soozi , I only asked because you said you might be short of material for the yoke. I have sometimes used different fabric for an invisible part like the inner yoke or cuff facings. 
You mentioned making the larger sleeve fit into the armhole.  If you cut the 16 sleeve, you need to cut the 16 armhole even if you are using a 14 bodice.  There are ways of making a sleeve wider without altering the length of the sleeve cap. I'll see if I can find a tutorial. It involves cutting across the sleeve pattern at armhole level, slashing the  pattern from cuff seam line to seamline at the top and spreading the two sides wide enough for your arm. The sleeve head will overlap the lower part a little.