To FBA or not, that is the ?

[sewmuchmore]

OK so you have probably gathered from other threads I am in the throws of a mid late life crisis. I just cannot seem to get the fit right anymore on anything I make.
I have always been flat chested and have
a, never needed to make any adjustments to bust area of patterns
b, or done a SBA

However recently I have suffered with gaping armholes, and my training tells me I need to do a FBA.
I have to confess I have never worn a bra (gasp, shock, horror) there its out in the open now, so decided to look at how you determine your cup size.
Even more confused now, depending on which method I use to measure I could be a AA or a C, what's that all about?

So how do you know when to do a FBA?

[Holly Berry]

It may be that you need to drop the bust point rather than add an additional amount. Unfortunately as we age gravity takes over

If you’ve determined that you are a B cup (industry standard cup size for commercial patterns)or you are not more or less than 2”, different to the pattern size you’ve chosen.

Measure down from your shoulder to your bust point and compare to the pattern. If yours is lower you need to cut out where the pattern has the fullness and drop to where you need it. As the fullness drops it should stop the gapping.

Draw a box around the dart, about 1cm above and below the dart and to the dart point. Cut out and drop down the pattern so that the dart point is now pointing towards your bust point. Fill in the gap lowering has made with tissue paper.

Apologies if I’m teaching my granny to suck eggs 

[aprilla]

When, yes? Just yesterday I started wondering if I needed this, though have always been and am still considered, small busted. But the upper parts of items made were not fitting as well as I wished they did. All sorts of adjustments to this area wasn't helping so I started wondering about the FBA. Previously I was thinking it was for larger busts and dismissed it for myself, but it's not. Not really. It's for larger differences in measurements that a pattern doesn't allow for (my description).

There's a 3" difference between my UB and B so I tried an FBA, adding 1.5 inches according to this FBA tutorial.
I think it might be my solution, though am about to try again on a larger size with less of an increase. You could try it, see how you like what it does for you.

[sewmuchmore]

Thanks @Francesca and @Holly Berry for the info. Unfortunately nothing new to me. I have had to move the bust point down a tad for years so pretty adapt at that. Fran, not all patterns work with the HB measurement. Vogue Butterick McCalls and Simplicity all run large through the upper bust area but New Look run true.
I wonder if it is a particular issue with Indie patterns?
I am going to make 3 toiles using the same pattern. One as the pattern stands one with a SBA and the last with a FBA and see which fits best.

[sewingj]

Perhaps it's too late to change the habits of a Lifetime but have you tried wearing a really well fitting bra? I am small busted but having a good bra makes a huge difference to how well my clothes fit - especially as I get older

[coffeeandcake]

I agree with Sewing. A well fitted bra will give you form and structure under your clothes. I might be a bit jealous here as at 30G I've never been able to not wear a bra.  What a financial saving too!

[sewmuchmore]

Well toils made and guess what, the one that I did the SBA fits great so it just goes to show that gaping armholes don't necessarily mean FBA.
Plus when I have looked at the patterns that I have had problems with they all have one thing in common, they do not have any bust darts and they are all Simplicity (which I have only recently been buying) so I will give that brand a miss in future.
And re the Indie comment, I take it back,when I look at everything I have made the best fitting garments are from Grainline, Style Arc and my Itch to stitch vest, which I made using the A cup pattern.

[Holly Berry]

I have never got on with Simplicity patterns. I think there is something to be said to find a brand that makes life easier. For me that’s Vogue and Butterick, I have far less fitting problems with them.