The Sewing Place

Posh frock version of Vogue 9112

Bodgeitandscarper

Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« on: April 07, 2019, 21:09:41 PM »
Thought I should start thread of it's own for this project.

I've now cut out the very slippery, floppy polyester-that-feels-a-bit-like-cotton-lawn fabric and I'm wondering if it's really suitable for this pattern.  It may work as I'm lining it, we'll see.

Now, lining it.  How the f, sorry, heck do I do that?  I want to machine the lining to the neckhole to cover the collar seam and armholes, but I can't do that and then turn it right sides out - can I??  I guess I need to leave a seam open somewhere, but can't for the life of me work out what/which/where.  All the info on t'interweb seems to be for dresses with a back zip opening, this pattern has a wide neck so no zip.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2019, 21:11:37 PM by Bodgeitandscarper »

Greybird

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2019, 22:29:53 PM »
You could leave the side seam in the lining open - easy enough to hand stitch it closed afterwards.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2019, 22:34:08 PM »
I don't think that will help, the lining is only going to be attached at the neck and armholes.  Am I over thinking it and it will turn anyway?

Greybird

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2019, 22:41:44 PM »
Sorry, I misunderstood. You won't be able to turn it if you machine the armholes as well as the neck. I would just do the neck and then turn it. You could then either handsew the armhole lining to the edge, or better, use bias binding turned all the way in and handsewn. I'm sure someone will have a cleverer way of doing it but that would be my solution.

toileandtrouble

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2019, 23:20:13 PM »
Do the neck and armholes on the front, on its own, turn it right side out, do the same with the back, then join the right sides of the shoulder seams. You will have to handstitch the linings there. The lining and face fabric can be sewn in one continuous seam on each side
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Manuela

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2019, 00:36:59 AM »
@Bodgeitandscarper google ‘burrito method’ of lining a dress. Quite a number of tutorials will come up, look for the one you find most suitable.
Make sure to stabilise (ideally stay-tape) those armholes and the neckhole  :)

Ploshkin

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2019, 10:11:24 AM »
Just hand sew the lining to the neck and armholes.  You'll have it finished in less than the time it takes to find one tutorial on a computer.
Life's too short for ironing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2019, 10:33:17 AM »
Hand sew?  Moi?  :o   0_0

The burrito method looks like the answer, thanks @Manuela
 

Lisanne

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2019, 11:39:40 AM »
The lining you’re talking about is usually done in a garment with a CB seam :
- sew shoulder and side seams
- sew neckline and armholes
- pull to the right side through the shoulders
- sew the CB seam.

Here’s some links to use of burrito method
https://aimforquality.wordpress.com/2015/10/31/burrito-yoke-method/
The one from Sew Liberated might be what you are looking for.

Good Luck with it
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https://aimforquality.wordpress.com - mainly for my own use, links to good on-line tutorials
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Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2019, 13:08:14 PM »
Thank you @Lisanne that'll do the job!  I was a little worried when the video cut half way through were she was having trouble trying to pull all the fabric through...

So far I have sewn the four front pieces, and they have gone together beautifully.

I'm planning on making up the lining by using the pattern  pieces for the neck and armholes, then just guesstimating the overall shape - or do you think I should do all the separate pieces to make it hang right?  :[

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #10 on: April 09, 2019, 13:31:45 PM »
I've looked and I don't have any bias stay tape, but I do have a very very light stretch fusible interfacing, so I guess I can cut some strips for stay tape from that?  Ho do I use the tape then?  Is it going to be mostly in the seam allowance, or hardly any in the seam allowance?  ironed on to the lining or the main fabric?

Manuela

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2019, 15:18:46 PM »

So far I have sewn the four front pieces, and they have gone together beautifully.

I'm planning on making up the lining by using the pattern  pieces for the neck and armholes, then just guesstimating the overall shape - or do you think I should do all the separate pieces to make it hang right?  :[

No need to do the separate pieces, a simple A-line shaped lining should be just fine.

Manuela

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #12 on: April 09, 2019, 15:20:57 PM »
I've looked and I don't have any bias stay tape, but I do have a very very light stretch fusible interfacing, so I guess I can cut some strips for stay tape from that?  Ho do I use the tape then?  Is it going to be mostly in the seam allowance, or hardly any in the seam allowance?  ironed on to the lining or the main fabric?
That’ll do, iron it into the seam allowances of the fashion fabric. I do that with armholes and neckholes in general, just after cutting. It prevents them from getting stretched out.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2019, 10:16:58 AM »
Thank you @Manuela for all your help  :)

I'm now wondering about the collar.  The pattern just has a single layer, which I've done when I've made it before, but for a smarter look I've cut two layers, so the back of the fabric won't be on show.  I also think it needs a very lightweight fusible interfacing, but would this be on the inside layer or the outside layer, given that the collar may (or may not, in this floppy fabric!) stand up a bit?

Manuela

Re: Posh frock version of Vogue 9112
« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2019, 11:07:20 AM »
@Bodgeitandscarper, I would use a sew-in interfacing, not a fusible one. Try a light to medium weigth cotton, and see how it looks - just hand tack the interfacing onto the fashion fabric and pin it onto the neck hole. That should give you an idea how the collar drapes/stands on the finished garment. I used the collar of this pattern on my block, and always did it in double fabric - wothput interfacing though, as I used medium weight cotton.