The Sewing Place

Underlining silk

BrendaP

Underlining silk
« on: April 11, 2019, 09:50:21 AM »
I am planning to make a Zambeesi jacket using silk scraps; mostly shantungs and some printed twill weaves and plain weaves originally intended for men's ties.

I am thinking of underling/interlining each piece as well as adding a conventional lining, but I'm undecided as to what to use.

Cotton lawn - will probably drape as well as the silk but both fabrics 'move' a lot.  Can I use spray starch to tame them a little?

Lightweight iron-on interfacing - stable and easy to use but will it adversly affect silk?

A thicker fabric such as flanelett to add a bit of warmth - but would it be too heavy for the silks?

Your thoughts please.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Missie

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2019, 10:01:36 AM »
How about silk organza?  It is a little crisper than lawn (and that would be my second choice or a cotton/silk mix).  I don't think the flanelette would work that well with the silk (it might cause too much bulk) but I would steer clear of iron-interfacing.  We don't get on well and no matter how hard I try, I end up with bubbles or it peels off.
 If you were looking for a bit of extra warmth, I would consider using the flanelette with the lining.  Just quilt it to the lining (something simple such as straight lines down the length of the lining, a bit like a chanel jacket) and use as one piece of fabric.

It looks an interesting project!
« Last Edit: April 11, 2019, 10:10:07 AM by Missie »
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

b15erk

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2019, 10:03:58 AM »
I would definitely use the spray starch to stabilise the fabrics, but test it first.  I've never had a problem on fabric - the iron yes, fabric no.

When doing the Poppins return bag, I sewed the strips onto a base, I only used interfacing on the most frayey of the fabric.  In my case because it was a bag the fabric I used was quite stiff, but you could use a lightweight fabric, and then a lightweight lining.

It's a bit like the quilt as you go method, but means your shapes stay very stable.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BrendaP

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2019, 10:18:00 AM »
Thanks for your thoughts so far.  I'm trying to do this entirely from stash.  I have enough silk pieces for the top and a piece of crepe de chine for the lining, and enough cotton lawn scraps but I'd have to buy organza.

Another thought - I've got enough Bondaweb to use between silk and lawn.

Off now to experiment with spray starch and the Bondaweb.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Elnnina

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2019, 11:10:33 AM »
Brenda what about using Domette instead of flannelette for the warmth part, Domette is used in strapless wedding bodices between the layers and thus gives a lovely smooth look to the finished garment.  Also it is not heavy - I used this in my daughter's wedding dress and she got married on the second most hottest day of the year - a few years ago and survived.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2019, 14:46:42 PM »
How about using English Couture's fine sheer fusible?  Doesn’t alter the hand of the fabric but stabilises nicely.

So Chic

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2019, 14:57:00 PM »
I seem to remember reading somewhere that Sandra Betzina uses lightweight flannel for underlining silk but I can't find the details in any of her books.
So Chic
Bernina Artista 630, Bernina 800DL, Janome Cover Pro 1000CP and an elderly Singer Touch & Sew 720G as a back up

BrendaP

Re: Underlining silk
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2019, 17:18:32 PM »
I tried using Bondaweb, it didn't bubble but it made it quite a bit stiffer, so I've applied spray starch to all the (rough cut) pieces of silk and it seems to be OK other than a gungy iron :ninja: so I think I'll spray starch the cotton lawn and take it from there.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.