Determined to make myself a new frock for my jols, I decided that I would go with New Look (Maudella) 6510. It was one I've picked up along the way, and I thought it would be easy, no darts, and already cut out.
The first problem soon became apparent. It's an old pattern, and the size 16 is coming up at 97 cms - I'm 103... Then there's the small matter of the pattern being already cut out. Well, it was, but in varying sizes, some pieces were 16, some 12, one even size 10! So the first job was patternwork.
I increased the front and back by 2cms, then added a few inches to the bodice length. Shoulder width then needed narrowing, and time to make a toile. This took several hours of my Saturday evening.
Sunday, I cut out a toile. Good job I did. It was huge. Gaping armholes, miles too wide, and the back didn't look too pretty either.
Fixed the gaping armhole with a small dart, and took an inch off each side, and half an inch off the shoulder. I also had to take another centimetre off the armhole. All these changes meant that the patternwork I did was useless.
I had a lightbulb moment, and decided that as jersey is forgiving when there are no darts, that is what I would use. I had to do more pattern work as the facings wouldn't now fit either...
I decided to use the toile as my pattern instead of transferring the alterations. After all, it was the toile which fitted best.
Late Sunday afternoon, I cut the dress out - decided against the jumpsuit as it was complicated enough already! I used a lovely cotton jersey with a bit of weight to it, and plenty of stretch.
All sewed up, and the front looked rather nice, shame about the back - it showed the whole of the back of my bra - not a pretty sight.
Time to adjust the crossover... I had to move it over 3" from the CB mark to get decent coverage!
Pressed the facings into place and it looked rather nice - except for the shoulders. This is where you find that there is a reason that the patternmaker drafted an all in one facing.
So, tonight's job, trim the facings down and tack them together and tack the crossover back in place and try on again. I'm going no further than this if it's not going to look right.
I haven't lined this, and I wish I had lined the bodice, but I think lining the skirt would have made it too heavy, so I've cut out an underslip out.
All these problems could have been avoided if I had done minor alterations to the pattern, and made a toile. Now I have a pattern which is unusable, although the toile is OK.
Jessie