What a Palaver!

[b15erk]

Determined to make myself a new frock for my jols, I decided that I would go with New Look (Maudella) 6510.  It was one I've picked up along the way, and I thought it would be easy, no darts, and already cut out.

The first problem soon became apparent.  It's an old pattern, and the size 16 is coming up at 97 cms - I'm 103... Then there's the small matter of the pattern being already cut out.  Well, it was, but in varying sizes, some pieces were 16, some 12, one even size 10!  So the first job was patternwork.

I increased the front and back by 2cms, then added a few inches to the bodice length.  Shoulder width then needed narrowing, and time to make a toile.  This took several hours of my Saturday evening.

Sunday, I cut out a toile.  Good job I did.  It was huge.  Gaping armholes, miles too wide, and the back didn't look too pretty either.

Fixed the gaping armhole with a small dart, and took an inch off each side, and half an inch off the shoulder. I also had to take another centimetre off the armhole.  All these changes meant that the patternwork I did was useless.

I had a lightbulb moment, and decided that as jersey is forgiving when there are no darts, that is what I would use.  I had to do more pattern work as the facings wouldn't now fit either...   I decided to use the toile as my pattern instead of transferring the alterations.  After all, it was the toile which fitted best.

Late Sunday afternoon, I cut the dress out - decided against the jumpsuit as it was complicated enough already! I used a lovely cotton jersey with a bit of weight to it, and plenty of stretch. 

All sewed up, and the front looked rather nice, shame about the back - it showed the whole of the back of my bra - not a pretty sight. Time to adjust the crossover... I had to move it over 3" from the CB mark to get decent coverage!    Pressed the facings into place and it looked rather nice - except for the shoulders.  This is where you find that there is a reason that the patternmaker drafted an all in one facing.   

So, tonight's job, trim the facings down and tack them together and tack the crossover back in place and try on again.  I'm going no further than this if it's not going to look right.

I haven't lined this, and I wish I had lined the bodice, but I think lining the skirt would have made it too heavy, so I've cut out an underslip out.

All these problems could have been avoided if I had done minor alterations to the pattern, and made a toile.  Now I have a pattern which is unusable, although the toile is OK.

Jessie

[Bodgeitandscarper]

I think I'd have given up when I looked at the pattern!!  Well done for persevering.
That back does looks very low, I guess it was designed for no bra.

[b15erk]

I think I've just got a stubborn/bloody minded streak Bodge, and I had set my mind on a new frock.  This one seemed to be an easy option!

You're right about the back - and there is no way I'll be going braless any time soon.  Those days are long gone!

I'll be cross if I can't make it work, the fabric is really nice - and it came from the stash!

Jessie

[Missie]

Well done for persevering......think I'd have bought a bra converter, to converter the back into a low-back cross-over bra!

[b15erk]

Never thought of that Missie!  May have a look in town later...

Failing that, I'll make a 'sleeve' thingy, to cover any bra bits which may show.

Jessie

[annieeg]

Ref Bra Converters - I bought this from Amazon recently:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FXMS1TJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very useful and good value, I think.
(I use the straps to hook across the back (in a horizontal line) to stop my bra straps falling off my shoulders.)

[b15erk]

That's brilliant Annie, thank you.  I think something similar may have just found its way into my basket! 

Jessie

[Ohsewsimple]

@b15erk  how did you increase the width?  Just wondered if that caused the problems.

[b15erk]

@Ohsewsimple , I cut down the grainlinefrom shoulder to waist, then added a 2cm strip, and trimmed down the armhole, and that usually does the trick.  I did however forget that I'd added extra to the SA  .

I think the shoulder ended up too long because when you put the strip in, it extends the length on the neck edge.

I did measure the pattern pieces before I began, and I really thought that it would do the trick.

The front is a good fit now, the back will only become apparent when the skirt is attached.  Hopefully, the weight of the skirt will help it to hang better.

My fitting expertise is very basic. 

Jessie

[Ohsewsimple]

Wonder if a FBA would have been better. That way you are adding width, and length, without messing with the neck, armholes, shoulders. Any resulting dart can be rotated out. 

[b15erk]

@Ohsewsimple, I did think about an FBA, but there are no darts and no bust point marked on the pattern. Your comment did make me think about the process I used though.

I think I have solved many of my own problems by writing this down, and whereas I have got a good fit at the front of the frock, the back isn't at all good.  The front fits nicely, except for the length which is hitting the high hip!    The back, well, to get something wearable it will be a botch. The width I added didn't do much damage, I've realised that with a crossover piece, adding the length that I did, expanded the back pieces to a ridiculous extent. 

Also, my fabric choice added to the problem.  The pattern was designed for a woven fabric, and I used a 4 way stretch, with some weight to it, which pulls the top down a lot. 

I've brought the pattern in to work, to have a look at it, and to try to return it to it's original state before I started hacking at it. 

Please feel free to comment on my procedures, my pattern drafting skills would seem to be more basic than I thought! 

Jessie

[b15erk]

I don't believe it!  I reversed all the alterations to my pattern (apart from 1/2" on the length), and when I laid the pattern pieces on the draped muslin I'd used for a pattern, there was very little alteration to do.... it's very odd.

What it seems to prove is that the added length to the bodice, had made the lower part of the bodice ridiculously wide. 

I changed the armholes as per the muslin, which seem to make the pattern lines land just where the size 16 lines should be. 

My conclusion is, that any pattern alterations have been adjusted on the muslin, apart from the bodice length, which was aggravated by the weight of the skirt.    Sorry if this means nothing to anyone else, but I need to write it down for my own reference.  So, by simply cutting the length off the bodice, I haven't changed the shape of the bodice, only to return it to what it should be. 

I need a pattern alteration course... 

Jessie

[Ohsewsimple]

@b15erk have a look at these two videos.

https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/how-to-find-the-bust-waist-and-hip-position-on-your-sewing-pattern

https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/why-the-front-pattern-is-wider-than-the-back

The first video at about 11.10 she talks about the bust level and how to find it.  Basically you are looking at about 1” below the armhole on a set in sleeve pattern.
Having looked at my pattern cutting file and books that could be anything from 1.5cm to 5cm. 
So 1” or 2.5cm seems a good rule of thumb.

The second video is interesting because it deals with the width difference between front and back.  And by measuring that you can work out if a pattern is drafted for a B,C,D cup etc.  Now I have to own up to having a lightbulb moment when I watched this and thinking 'Duh, why didn’t you think of that?'   As I generally draft my own that isn’t  a problem.  But I don't know why they can’t just give you that info to start with. 

Did you add the length at the bottom?  It’s better to slash through the pattern and add a piece in between.  That way you keep the original width of the pattern. 
 
I would highly recommend watching her videos and download her fitting guide which is free and full of useful info.

[b15erk]

That is excellent information @Ohsewsimple.  I've downloaded the Perfect Fit guide too.

Thank you so much for this, I don't make a lot for myself, but there's always a bit of a problem when I do.  This should help a lot.

I added the length at the lengthen and shorten line OSS, the problem I think was that I added 3", and that had the unfortunate effect of adding width on the crossover back.

The first picture below shows the changes I made to make the pattern fit me.  I cut the toile from this, and had to make alterations in the armhole area.  The second picture is the pattern put back to what it was, apart from the grading up to size 16 and the 1/2" length added. When laid on the blue toile, the only difference is the length, but this has had the unfortunate effect of changing the width on the crossover.

This sounds like nonsense, but it after reading the information you linked to, it makes sense to me.

Thank you,

Jessie

[b15erk]

Almost there!  I really like it, and it's very comfortable.  I think I'll wear a belt with it though, although I don't usually like them.  It looks a bit thick around the waist, but that's because I'm wearing it over my trousers (I'm in work).  Maybe a tad long, but if I wear heels it's not a problem.

I do have to finish the facings though, they need trimming at the armholeso that I can stitch them together to try to stop them creeping out.  The front facing wants to ride up too, I might try a bit of wonder web. The back facings too, like to sneak up.  So, plenty to do to make them stay put!

Not sure whether to bind the elastic channel, or just overlock it?  Either way, it doesn't really matter.

That just leaves the hem.  Do I thread up the coverstitch, or just put a twin needle in?  Decisions, decisions!

What do you think?

Jessie