The Sewing Place

Jersey slip drafting help

Francesca

Jersey slip drafting help
« on: April 15, 2019, 11:12:36 AM »
I tried making a jersey slip (to wear under a chiffon dress I have) and it ended up not fitting. I basically drafted a "straight" jersey skirt down off my cupped bodice pattern (curving it out to add extra inches at the hip) but the result was too tight at the hip and then sort of flared out under my bum (I call it a "ducks tail" when a skirt clings to your bum then does a little flare out underneath).

So now I'm considering other options. I liked the cupped bodice because it works as a bra which means I can wear no bra, just slip and pants. Much more comfortable in the summer!

My thinking now is a half circle skirt instead. I know that a slip is generally meant to be quite slim so as not to add bulk under clothes but my big problem is my large hip to waist ratio so I'm wondering if a circle skirt would fix that problem.

Or... does anyone have any other slip patterns they could recommend? I'm not adverse to woven as I could make it out of a thicker silk which will be much cooler than jersey.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 13.3m metres

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Manuela

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2019, 11:27:50 AM »
I don’t think a half circle is the best idea. How about an A-line?  Do you have a well fitting A-line skirt pattern you could frankenpattern onto the cupped bodice?

Francesca

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2019, 11:31:41 AM »
The one I already did was A-line. The problem with A-line is that I need to cover something like 12 inches difference between waist and hip (and that's just between my measurements...  I would want the slip to be loose over the hips but fitted at the waist), and I'm also short waisted so it's something like 12 inches horizontally out within only 4 inches vertically. The shape is basically half circle skirt by then.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 13.3m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Elnnina

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2019, 11:36:19 AM »
Fran I recently purchased Butterick 5963 and it really is night attire, i.e. two lengths of robe, pyjamas, nightdress.  It is the nightdress part that caught my eye, it is princess seamed  so panelled front, and a two piece back, so could easily be shortened to a slip, and if the skirt area is too big, I am sure you could take it in where necessary.

I have managed to get some white slip fabric from English Couture it is the stuff M&S used to make slips from, and I have just sewn the narrowest overlocked seams, you could of course use woolley nylon in the upper looper but I found using just ordinary Gutermann was fine.  Being a knit fabric this has got some stretch and you could make it so it clings where yu want it to cling and leave the skirt area to flow a little.

If you have the patience why not try this style slip, tack it together to see how it fits, and then if necessary take in where you need to, it is made very quickly and you can buy some pretty lace for the hem, around the neck and armholes if you want to make it all pretty.

Francesca

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2019, 11:47:36 AM »
Ooh that does look good. I would prefer skinnier straps, but perhaps if I can make one to see how it goes then I can cut the top off to convert it to a strappy bodice.
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 13.3m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

Greybird

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2019, 11:53:57 AM »
I have just used B5963 to make a nightdress and the shape is good - would work well for a slip. Mine ended up having skinnier straps because I didn't make a very good job of the sleeve edge binding and I turned the whole thing in on itself so that it was all on the inside. No reason at all why you couldn't just cut it narrower in the first place.

b15erk

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2019, 12:21:32 PM »
Fran I've done the Butterick pattern a couple of times - two of those lovely tops.  This is such a great pattern, beautiful fit, with no gappy arms.  I haven't done a nightie, which is what you would need for a slip, but it's just a longer version of the pyjama top.

I would make a toile, and then alter the straps, and maybe the back which is quite high.  I would also do a normal bound armhole and neck, for me, Butterick's version is a bit long winded.  In actual fact, if you are just making a slip, overlocking and turning a narrow hem should do the trick.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Francesca

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2019, 12:48:00 PM »
I really like the back. I'm thinking a mesh or lace would be quite good to help with cooling.

I prefer nighties anyway so I might make an actual nightie version full high up as per the pattern and then get the fit good before I adjust again to make a slip version.

Problem is fabrics. Silk far too expensive. Maybe some sort of mercerised cotton?
Stash Busting 2019
Goal: 100 metres
So far: 13.3m metres

My Blog - Plus Girl Sews // Follow me on Instagram :)

b15erk

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2019, 13:05:06 PM »
I made mine in a lovely crepe, it drapes beautifully, with quite a heavy lace for the back.  The second one, a sort of wearable toile, I made with a cotton jersey, and a cotton lace fabric inset.

Both pieces of lace were remnants I've had for ages.

I had thought to make one completely from remnants, but it would have to be thought about.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: Jersey slip drafting help
« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2019, 13:50:23 PM »
To try it out I made mine from poly satin with lace in the back, but for the next one I think I shall use cotton lawn.