The Sewing Place

Riding Habit

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2019, 16:17:35 PM »
I've found the riding jackets from the Thornton's book. One is fitted but there's also one called 'the new riding jacket' which is double breasted with a semi-fitted waist. Neither has a cutaway front though. I'm now trying to source the entire book as it has so many different kinds of apron / skirt but I've only managed to find a handful of them online even though it's out of copyright. There's a copy on ebay but it's £170.

I made up a scale model of the apron from paper and I can't work out how it goes together so it might be on hold until I can find instructions or a better design. One of the foot loops is marked on a piece that doesn't go anywhere near either foot the way I've put it together!

Elnnina

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2019, 18:36:52 PM »
Sonatine, not knowing where you live, have you tried what is known as The County Library, normally in the county town, and they should have hidden away probably down in a basement somewhere - books and this is called County Reserve.  These consist of books that have rarely been out and not used and or requested, and you should be able to find a book you want and take it out on loan.  My county is Buckinghamshire and I was amazed when I went down into the depths, was allowed to look at the section I wanted - of course sewing related - and came home with about 10-12 books on loan.  Some of the books were the last copy in the county, and of course there is the inter library loans - so sometimes these books are lent to other libraries.

You never know you might find something along the lines of what you are looking for.

bessc

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2019, 20:29:35 PM »
more to add...your pattern is a bit more complicated (!!) than the French drawing. There is a seam that joins S-J and 5-3, match the double notches...I'm not exactly sure where the seam ends but it starts at the waist and ends around pt. 3 which should match your right knee dart.

You can see this long seam in the drawing on the pattern, the left one, sitting in the saddle.
The drawings are useful...shows you'll probably add a waistband. Also shows that button placement is sort of up to you!

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2019, 20:36:40 PM »
@bessc thank you! I'd got most of it worked out but the left foot loop had me stumped until my mum pointed out that it goes around the heel of your boot, not under the ball of the foot like the right one. Modern aprons don't have left foot loops because they're so much shorter so it was really confusing me! There's also a strange sling of fabric that goes under your thigh that isn't present on newer aprons and isn't mentioned on the drafting instructions, but it seems to button from the three dashes at 20-21 back under the skirt to the three buttons between E and G, fastening on the inside. I'm glad you also think the other buttons are marked wrong, that was another point of confusion.

Now that I finally understand it I'm hoping to get the apron cut tonight and sewn tomorrow. I have very little ability to visualise things or see how flat shapes become 3D objects so this project is making my brain hurt!

bessc

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #19 on: April 20, 2019, 21:05:34 PM »
gotta say this is like crossword puzzles, once you start you can't quit!

I realize I'm wrong about adjusting size...you custom draft this so you don't need to adjust!

what are the main measurement lines? I'm pretty sure A-B is finished length...meaning waist to left boot heel (on the saddle!). What exactly is A-C and 1-3??

I agree the three buttons are underneath. I think the "sling" bit might be to preserve a lady's modesty and prevent the skirt from flying up.


bessc

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #20 on: April 22, 2019, 08:26:18 AM »
Another book, check out Chapter 5 if you are making a riding habit.

Link removed by moderator as deemed unsafe by my browser, further checking revealed it to be a domain on sale

Love the details...the tailor would pad the knee of your riding skirt if necessary so you didn't look too skinny! Not exactly my problem, but good to know.

Please adhere to the rules you agreed with when you signed up. You need to have at least 25 posts before you are allowed to post links.
Thank you
Manuela
« Last Edit: April 22, 2019, 17:41:01 PM by Manuela »

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #21 on: April 22, 2019, 12:01:02 PM »
@bessc it's so interesting isn't it! I've got a 1920s / 30s apron that is constructed in a similar way to the one that I'm attempting to draft, I'll try to get some photos of it for comparison. That one fits my right knee perfectly (It's 18" waist to knee) but comes up really short once I'm mounted. This also means it's short when it's buttoned up for walking and only just goes past my knees.


Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #22 on: April 22, 2019, 19:44:09 PM »
I've made a first mock up of the apron, only the top section to check the fit of the darts. The waist shaping / size is good, but if it's positioned correctly at the waist then the knee dart is halfway along my thigh and if it's positioned correctly round my knee then the waist is miles away from my waist. There's also not enough fabric across the width of the skirt.
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So then I borrowed a friend who is 6 inches shorter than me and it looked a lot better. I think she's much closer in height to the average Edwardian lady!
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To move forward I need to redraft the pattern from my waist to knee measurement to get that dart the right length. I won't have access to a big enough space to draft for a while now so this project will have to go on hold. I've found a possible source for a modern apron pattern so I might make a modern habit in the meantime.

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #23 on: May 09, 2019, 22:45:40 PM »
Progress!
I've had a modern apron pattern drafted to my measurements by a very kind lady and I made it up today. It went together really easily and it seems like it fits perfectly, but I won't know for sure until I can try it on when I'm riding. It still needs buttonholes and buttons but here's a WIP pic:
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The fabric is a very dark navy wool melton, it looks black to me in artificial lighting but it's definitely navy in the sunlight. It's really lovely to work with.

I'm trying to copy my existing cutaway jacket now to make a pattern for the matching jacket, it doesn't have any darts and I have commercial patterns to use for the collar and lapels if necessary so I think it should be doable.

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2019, 09:48:39 AM »
This morning I put together a Franken-habit!
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It's entirely not correct going by Side Saddle Association rules as the jacket must always match the apron, but I think it all works together and it looks smart enough for general riding in. It doesn't show up very well in the photo but the tie has tiny red spots that match the red overcheck on the tweed. I'm still going to work on a jacket in the navy melton asap though to be more correct! It's just difficult when there are no readily available commercial patterns for this style and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed with the multiple patterns I've tried adapting / drafting.

b15erk

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #25 on: May 10, 2019, 09:52:54 AM »
@Sonatine that is beautiful!  A lovely piece of work, you should be very proud of yourself.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #26 on: May 10, 2019, 09:54:46 AM »
Just to clarify, I only made the apron! The lovely jacket came from ebay but it's the style I'm hoping to copy

b15erk

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #27 on: May 10, 2019, 10:14:20 AM »
It's still a lovely outfit!  ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Sonatine

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #28 on: May 12, 2019, 14:07:33 PM »
The jacket is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare. I'm struggling to adapt any of the commericial patterns I've bought because they're too different and I can't get to grips with making a pattern from my existing jacket (the tweed one in the picture) as it's so structured.

Does anyone know of a pattern I could adapt? It needs a notched collar and the potential to have double rear vents. Ideally a fairly fitted silhouette with two piece sleeves. I feel like I've searched everywhere with no luck!

StitchinTime

Re: Riding Habit
« Reply #29 on: May 12, 2019, 14:16:08 PM »
Would either of these Claire Schaeffer patterns be any good?
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v8333
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v9099

There’s also this Burda pattern that might adaptable to make double back vents.
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/bd6746-misses-blazer-jacket#.XNgdcBDTWf1
« Last Edit: May 12, 2019, 14:20:41 PM by StitchinTime »