Riding Habit

[Sonatine]

Altering a corset is hard!

I've tried doing some alterations on the flat pattern pieces, but when I tape them back together the waist line is about 1/8th - 1/4 inch off at each seam. The reasoning behind doing them flat was to be able to take different amounts off each piece to retain the shape of the panels - there's one piece where there's room to take an inch off and it joins to a panel where I can only take 1/4 inch and if I tried to do this on a fabric mock up with a seam I don't know how it would be possible to get it uneven like this. I know the waist discrepancy has happened because the reductions have altered the curves at the sides of the pieces slightly, but I have no idea how to sort it... maybe it will be best to make a mock up with these initial alterations and just see how much of an issue it is with fabric rather than paper / how it sits on the body?

[Sonatine]

Corset mock up 1 is complete!

I ended up taking too much off the bust so some of the original pieces need to go back in for the next version. It has hardly any hip spring which is strange for a corset of this era and also meant it wouldn't lace properly and there wasn't any waist reduction. The bust is really beautifully drafted though, I love the shape there. It's also quite lopsided, but I don't know if that's due to my wonky sewing, my wonky body, or a bit of both! Pictures:
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So the next step is to make another mock up (with a busk this time, I severely regretted my laziness when it came to trying this one on) with the bust closer to the orignal and some added width at the hips to hopefully get a better silhouette.

[Efemera]

What a fabulous shape...a great fit. Look forward to seeing the finished article.

[StitchinTime]

I know it is only a mock up, but I really like the fabric you used. Could you use an open ended zip on future mock ups to make it easier to get into, rather than having to use a busk?

[b15erk]

Looks lovely!

Jessie

[BrendaP]

Hmmmm!!!

I think it means that John Redfern designed riding habit but clearly someone else was the maker.  Not very clear though on the blurb.

[Sonatine]

The corset is finally finished!
This version has an increased hip spring from the mock up which means that I can get a waist reduction of just under 2 inches. I'm really happy with it and I love the silhouette.
Photos aren't the best but they're all I can get for now.
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Hopefully I'll be able to ride in it in a few weeks time but it needs to be worn in slowly before that.

[WildAtlanticWay]

That’s a brilliant piece of corsetry. 
Well done on persevering to get to your finished article. Looks very authentic and I guess it’s probably pretty uncomfortable to wear for any length of time. You can certainly understand why fashion had to evolve.


 

[Sonatine]

Thanks @WildAtlanticWay and it's actually really comfortable! Sometimes I get a bit achy after wearing a corset for a few hours from not being able to slouch but that's because of my poor everyday posture. The slow breaking in is mainly to let the coutil and synthetic whalebone mould to the wearer's body shape while they're warm without suddenly over-stressing the seams or making the bones warp.

[Sonatine]

Working on the bodice, and I've hit a few problems.

There are little to no markings on the pattern. It has curved, two piece sleeves - where does the straight grain go? I'm vaguely aware that getting a mismatch of grainline on the two pieces could mean the sleeve twists(?) so it's important to get it right, but I can't work it out and haven't managed to find any information online yet.

The lining is also confusing. Most extant garments from the period are flatlined but the instructions (if my translating skills haven't let me down) mention lining twice. Once before any sewing: "line the fronts, the collar, and the sleeves up to the vents" which seems like it might actually be referring to interfacing of some sort? And then after construction: "equip the bodice with a satin lining up to the waist". My gut instinct would be that this is too modern but these are the original instructions so it must be correct, unless I'm interpreting them incorrectly. Does anyone have any ideas?

[Tiggy]

You have done a beautiful job on the corset, I didn’t know they had to be worn in.

[Elnnina]

Your corset Sonatine looks fantastic - very well done.  Hope you have enjoyed making this, and you are sensible in wearing this in, as once on for real with all the other garments and up on a horse you need to be comfortable and not have pieces of corsetry/boning digging into you.

With regards to the instructions for the other parts, I would think you are right about the lining referring to interlining - this is to help keep the fabric in shape and adds support.  Then when the jacket is complete you can then add a nice silky/satin lining as this will slip on easily over other garments.  You are doing an excellent job with this project so I do hope you are enjoying all the different processes.  Don't forget your new friend 'the rolling pin' to help you set and flatten the bulky parts.

[Sonatine]

Here's the bodice mock up. The fitting issues are nowhere near as bad as I expected, but it's thrown up a few more questions.

There's some excess fabric around the armscye, but I think this is probably necessary for freedom of movement so I'm reluctant to do too much alteration here.
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It's also really wanting to be open from the waist down. I initially thought this was because it's too small at the hips but on the pattern piece the centre front edge is curved outwards. I can't tell from the illustration because she has her hands in front of her just below the waist, and there's no mention of this either way in the instructions. I don't know whether to leave it open below the waist or try to redraft the front edge to be straight. It also means it's trying to open at the neck when it's definitely meant to be fully buttoned up with a high collar. Apologies for the poor photo, it was difficult to hold it closed!
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[Iminei]

Im in awe of your skill ... also your tiny waist ... Or do you have great big gorilla shoulders???

(no offence intended)

[Sonatine]

Thanks @Iminei haha! It's a combination of a small-ish natural waist corseted down 2" and the slightly full sleeves making the shoulders look bigger.

I let the hips out 2" overall at the side seam and got another 1/2" at the front darts. Then I added some snaps and tried it on again and it looks like it's actually the lower ribs and waist that are a bit too small so I need to find somewhere to let them out - I'm not sure how much more I can get out of the darts. But it definitely seems like it is meant to be fastened all the way to the lower edge and it was just the poor fit stopping it earlier. (slightly silly pose in the photo - the curved sleeves need bent elbows!)
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