The Sewing Place

Strapless Liberty-Print Dress

charlotte

Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« on: April 16, 2019, 13:37:16 PM »
So after a l-o-o-o-o-ng sewing hiatus I am jumping back in feet-first with a strapless Liberty-print dress. I'm thinking a fairly simple straight-across top with a big pleated skirt.

It's my first strapless dress and I'm going all-out on the foundations with a built in corselette including cut-and-sew foam cups, underwires and spiral steel boning.

I can't decide whether I want a ruffled petticoat underneath or if that will be too much!

This is my fabric:

SkoutSews

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2019, 14:32:18 PM »
Oh, I love that fabric! It's fabulous.

Acorn

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2019, 14:35:04 PM »
Ooh that's going to be gorgeous!!  Have you got plans to wear it somewhere sunny and glamorous?
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

charlotte

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2019, 14:51:59 PM »
Have you got plans to wear it somewhere sunny and glamorous?

Hopefully Henley Regatta, so it's more likely to be rainy and muddy!  :D

Acorn

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2019, 17:30:21 PM »
But you will be sunny!   :D
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

snoozi soozi

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2019, 19:12:17 PM »
Ooo I love a bold print, all the colours in that, eh? Gorgeous  :loveit:

BrendaP

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2019, 21:45:41 PM »
That fabric is gorgeous  :loveit:

I can't decide whether I want a ruffled petticoat underneath or if that will be too much!

What pattern are you using?
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

charlotte

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2019, 09:00:46 AM »
What pattern are you using?

Haven’t got an actual pattern but I’m thinking this sort of shape, just strapless.


charlotte

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2019, 09:09:32 AM »
One thing I would say is don't go all out on the steel boning unless you're really determined to. I am a G chest and managed just fine with the plastic ribbon stuff that you just stitch on. The advantage of using that was no channels need to be made so less bulk.

Hmmm... I’m planning for the foundation to go down to my hips (so that I can attach both a bust and waist stay) and I always thought that Rigilene does not work so well over/below the waist. That said, I read yesterday that spiral steel boning is not good in dresses, so I’m not sure what to use! Maybe I should try the Rigilene in my toile and see. It certainly would be a lot easier!

elisep

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2019, 10:21:07 AM »
Spiral steel is not generally recommended if your bust is larger than a C cup.
I made myself a formal dress with a separate internal corselette made from Powernet. I'm not at home to double check right now, but I think I used a combination of spiral and flat steel. I definitely would have used flat steels at center back and the side seams, and definitely spiral steels over the bust for comfort. I just can't remember what I used at the side front and side back seams.
The dress was extremely comfortable to wear for a strapless, I didn't have to pull it up once. The corselette went down to high hip and waistline on the dress was at my natural waist. The powernet was definitely a big part of why it was so comfortable! I originally wanted to go full couture and use swiss net but it proved very difficult to find.

I don't really like rigilene for strapless dresses myself, I don't feel it offers enough support - this is just my preference.
Personally, if I was going to the trouble of making a corselette and all, I would use channels and boning rather than sew on rigilene.

Another option could be cable ties - I've used these successfully in toiles that I have made for various things, and in a pair of 18th century stays. Still need to sew channels for these but cheaper than using steel and then it would be safe to wash in the machine.

charlotte

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2019, 14:07:11 PM »
So after much mucking around with my corselette toile I am going with the steel spiral. There is no boning over the bust, as I am using foam cups and underwires, but I really like the way the spiral steel shapes through the waist.

I have adjusted my toile to within an inch of its life to minimise the armpit squidge and I think I have it as good as it's going to get. It's still a little bit squashy at the top but if I let it out anymore at the top it gapes at the front which is definitely not a good look.

I am contemplating attaching Rigilene to the bodice underlining (this is what I usually do for my non-strapless dresses), but that might be overkill.

charlotte

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2019, 10:11:08 AM »
Oh dear, such a long time since I posted. I need to be less busy so I have more time for sewing!!

Anyway, here is a picture of the finished dress:


b15erk

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2019, 10:13:47 AM »
Beautiful Charlotte!  It fits you perfectly and looks lovely!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Greybird

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2019, 10:21:40 AM »
How lovely! Perfect fit and beautiful fabric.

wrenkins

Re: Strapless Liberty-Print Dress
« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2019, 12:04:10 PM »
I saved a picture of a dress with a similar style where the princess seams 'open out' to two gathers at the front. I think it's gorgeous.
I don't think I'm quite ready for strapless but it's really lovely on you.  :loveit:
« Last Edit: July 17, 2019, 12:26:37 PM by wrenkins »
Fashion fades, style is forever!