Changing size within a pattern

[Ryomaden]

I have my first pattern (Mccalls M7464) but I want to make it in size 6 at the bust and 10 elsewhere, is there a technique for this?

[Ryomaden]

[b15erk]

First of all, I would trace your pattern if you are planning to make changes.  This keeps the original in good condition if you need to go back and make further changes.

I'm not a fitting expert - I'm sure one will come along presently, but I would simply draw a line across the sizes.

I always find that making a toile is useful, you can make all kinds of changes to it, mark it, and even use it as your pattern when you have your fit as you want it.

Hope this helps.

Jessie

[Greybird]

I would also just grade across the size lines on the pattern, although this may not be straightforward - depends on the pattern. Remember also, that the sizes marked on the pattern are not the same as those on ready to wear garments. You need to check the measurements given on the pattern envelope.

[Ryomaden]

Firstly I would assess why you need to do so, in order to work out what the best approach is. My guess is a small bust and larger waist/hips?

Yes this is exactly what I meant, bust size is 6 while waist and hips come in at 10, according to the body measurement section on the envelope.
I just read a tutorial for SBA and it looks quite straightforward, thank you for the suggestion.
I am a bit confused with with where to make the marks for the grading from 8 to 10 though...
would I take a line from the bust point circle out to the cut line and that would be the starting point then do the same at the waistline for the finish point?

Edit.. if I do a SBA then I don't need to grade from 8 to 10 is that correct? I could cut everything for 10 then adjust?

[charlotte]

Hi Ryomaden,

Completely agree with Francesca about assessing whether you need a smaller size or a SBA on the top. The easiest way to establish this is to take your high bust measurement, and pick the size where the bust matches that. So for example, using the McCalls sizes here, if your high bust is 32.5", go with a size 10 all the way with an SBA. If your high bust is 30.5" you are right, you do need a 6, and may need to grade out to the waist and hips. This Bluprint link is quite useful.

That said, I see that the finished bust, waist, hips measurements are on the pattern and there is (in my opinion) quite a lot of ease built in for what looks like quite a fitted dress, so bare that in mind. If you are a standard size 10 34.5" at the hip, an 8 would still give you 2" of ease there, which would be enough for me in a dress of this style. A 6 would only have 1" ease, which would definitely be a bit tight for me, but depending on how tight you like your clothes and what fabric you are using, you might actually be happy with that. Compare the size measurements in the link (or on the packet) with the finished measurements on the pattern packet to see how much ease there is. It might be useful to measure a ready to wear dress of a similar style if you have one where you like the fit.

If you do decide you need it, grading is not difficult. I haven't read it, but the pictures in this Cashmerette article seem to demonstrate it well. I would grade between the notches and the lower 'lengthen or shorten' line in this case I think.

As it's your first pattern, I would recommend starting with a 'wearable toile' in a not-too expensive fabric, so that you can both practice techniques and check the fit before moving onto pricier cloth, but of course that is entirely up to you. 

[wrenkins]

Can't wait to see the pics of when you try it on @Ryomaden 
Pretty sure Fran and Charlotte haven't read your 'hello' message.
Joking aside, you're in safe hands with these two. 

[charlotte]

Can't wait to see the pics of when you try it on @Ryomaden 
Pretty sure Fran and Charlotte haven't read your 'hello' message.
Joking aside, you're in safe hands with these two. 

Oops! Sorry @Ryomaden! 

My advice still applies for your wife's measurements though 

[Ryomaden]

  I can't see it fitting me but great information all the same so thank you all.

I am making a toile but I am having real trouble pinning the princess seam sides to the front. The pattern said to staystitch the front panel and also ease stitch the front between notches however I am finding that the side section has all the extra fabric when I am pinning it. As I see it the ease stitch is doing nothing so I am wondering if I have cut it wrong?
I rechecked against the pattern and it looks right.

[tumblina]

Ah, the fun of matching a concave and a convex curve! Have you tried clipping the seam allowances to let them straighten out while you sew? As a double check I stand a measuring tape on its side and measure exactly the seam line (5/8” in from the edge) on both pieces. This length should be the same (though if they say to gather one side, that side should be longer). It usually measures fine, it's just my stitching that needs work, but every once in a while there was a drafting error!