The Sewing Place

Help changing a neckline please

sewingj

Help changing a neckline please
« on: May 03, 2019, 09:35:34 AM »
I`ve made this nightie pattern twice
https://butterick.mccall.com/b6531

in theory I should be a "medium" but "small" is plenty big enough and I like it except for the neckline.  It has quite a wide neckband and it is too high.  I would like to change it to a scoop neckline but am not sure how I should finish the neck edge (I want to keep the placket opening).
Can I just reshape the neckline and cut a long strip of fabric to bind the edge - if so, should I cut the strip on the straight or bias?  At the moment the placket exends over the neck-band but could I just cut the top of the placket to line up with the neckline and bind the whole lot?  Presumably I`d have to do a bit of fiddling to make the ends of the binding neat.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated

Greybird

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2019, 09:40:05 AM »
I would cut a straight strip for binding - on the bias if it is not a knit fabric. I'd take it right over the top of the placket and hand sew the edges in.

BrendaP

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2019, 09:45:05 AM »
Yes, of course you can reshape the neckline if you wish.  Just redraw it the level where you want it to be.  If the reshaping at the front affects the shoulder seam you will need to redaw the back neck as well so that the two pieces match.

For binding a neckline - or any other curved edge - you need to cut the binding on the bias.  Straight binding is for straight edges.

Your choice as to whether the placket overlaps the binding or the binding overlaps the placket.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

sewingj

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2019, 08:14:07 AM »
Thanks @Greybird  and @BrendaP  - Can I just double check - the nightdress is made from jersey - if I use the same fabric for the binding should I still cut it on the bias?  I wondered if that would make it too stretchy. 

Greybird

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2019, 08:53:38 AM »
I wouldn't cut it on the bias if it's stretchy - I find it easy enough to ease it round the curves. I have had patterns however that do specify cutting on the bias. Have you got enough fabric to try it straight first?

BrendaP

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2019, 08:54:07 AM »
If it's jersey fabric cut it straight, but in the stretchier direction.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

sewingj

Re: Help changing a neckline please
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2019, 15:06:34 PM »
Thanks Ladies - I've cut it straight and it is fine