Thinking about fit

[b15erk]

This started as an attempt to get rid of my UFO's - I know, sounds daft, but it will become clear...

For years I've had weight problems, and my weight has fluctuated alarmingly over the years, although lately it's been a bit more stable.  So, when I make clothes for myself, I tend to use knits/jersey which have a bit of give.  Wovens give me more of a problem, and this is why I've got this particular UFO.  It's a RebeccaTaylor, Vogue 1395, and I started it a few years ago, when I was carrying more weight than now.  My strategy has always been, do the pattern adjustments, then add a bit extra on the seams - just in case.  The strategy hasn't worked, and I've ended up with this UFO which is HUGE!

I think this is the result of years of yo-yo weight fluctuation, and always making allowances in case I gain weight.  I do know that this thinking is flawed, but I have a hard time breaking the habit, and this is why I have so many UFO's, or, if I do finish, the garment is never worn, because it's too big...

I thought that I would just be able to go back to the dress, take in the seams, and it would be good enough.  Unfortunately, that won't work with this dress...

So, the first job is to locate the pattern - to my shame, I can't find it...

Then, I've got to figure out where to start.

Any suggestions? Either for my fitting problems, or my attitude to my size. 

A bit of a revelation came when I made a nightshirt pattern which had already been cut to a 16.  I cut it out as it was, and it was plenty big enough.  Same with the last summer dress.  I spent ages making alterations to a size 12 dress, only to find that yet again, I had over adjusted, and the size 12 (because of the ease I think) would have fitted perfectly as it was.

Sorry, this post rambles a bit, but just looking for fitting tips, and ideas for coping with fit when your weight is up and down.

Jessie

[Holly Berry]

My Mum, who was a prolific sewer, always struggled with her weight, so she had what she called her fat wardrobe and her “normal” wardrobe. This did result in a lot of clothes, but solved her yo-yo weight fluctuations

[b15erk]

@Holly Berry thank you!  Nice to know I'm not alone with fitting problems related to weight fluctuations.  It's really hard to get used to being larger/smaller, than the last time you made something for yourself!  Your idea of cutting over the top is an excellent idea - I'll be taking it apart later!

Better late than never though, I've been having a look at Pattern Review - wish I'd looked earlier!  Everyone says the same.  The pattern runs big - 1-2 sizes, neck and armholes too low, and shoulders too wide!  Why didn't I read this first!  All these things are going on in my project!

So, off I go to see if I can rescue this very nice dress!

Jessie

[Efemera]

Make it for the size you are now...and wear it now.

[Ohsewsimple]

@b15erk  I wonder if people who claim the pattern runs big are actually using the wrong sized pattern to start with. 
What are you basing your pattern size on Jessie?

[b15erk]

I think that's the problem @Ohsewsimple .  I go with my measurements, then add a bit onto the seam - just in case.  I've even been known to reduce the seams to add a bit more.

Mentally, I know I don't need to, but it's something I seem to do automatically.

I think I need to re-train myself, and as @Efemera says, I should make and wear for the size I am now, not for the 'just in case' I may put weight on!

It's very tedious, and I wish I could be more confident with my measuring and fitting skills.

Jessie

[Ohsewsimple]

Well Jessie you aren’t the only one who has weight issues.  .  And Efemera is right, we should be making for now.  We have to wear clothes so make them for now. 
No need to add on just in case.  That should be taken care of in the pattern. 

I’m sure you already know but.....measure above the bust, the chest area.  And that is your pattern size.  Now I read a lot of info about substituting your chest measurement for the actual bust measurement but I don’t do that.  After all, if that is your chest size then it has to fit that size at the chest.  So I usually say take your chest size and buy the pattern based on that CHEST size.  If the pattern company doesn’t quote that, then add 5cms or 2” to get to the required bust measurement.  Most pattern companies draft for a B cup which is 2” more then the chest generally. 
So looking at McCalls if you have a 32” chest and 34” bust you would buy a size12.  If you had a 32”  chest and 36” or 38” bust you would still buy a size12 and do a full bust adjustment.  This would also add width all the way down so that might be a bonus or may need adjusting somewhere.