The Sewing Place

Sleevies.

wrenkins

Sleevies.
« on: May 10, 2019, 11:18:13 AM »
I've been reading through this pattern and it seems reasonably straightforward, that is until I make my adjustments but we'll get to that later!
In the instructions it tells me to sew up the sleeve seam then insert the sleeve with all the easing and carrying on that follows. I'd be faffing round a tube at that point! Wouldn't it be easier to leave the side and sleeve seams open, sew from under arm seam to dot twice (you know, front and back), do my easing in on the flattish and then sew up my sleeve seam and down my side seam to the hem?
Why would this not be a good idea?
Don't forget, one syllable words only...darksider on the fly... :ninja:
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

annieeg

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2019, 11:28:29 AM »
@wrenkins
I've actually made that pattern following their instructions (I don't recall a lot of ease at the top of the sleeve) and it went together really well.
If I can I'll find the coat and take a picture for you.
(I really like the fit, but the fabric I chose was dreadful :()
Annie

wrenkins

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2019, 11:32:38 AM »
Thanks @annieeg. I probably will do it the way they say as I have used that method before many centuries ago. I just wondered was it the easiest...pardon the pun!  0_0
ps what was so bad about your fabric. I'm not using quilted this time but I might if I do it again.
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

Missie

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2019, 11:35:00 AM »
You can do the sleeves either way, tube or flat.  Doing it the tube way is generally the more accepted way though, IMO.  I recently did a sleeve the flat way as I wanted to use a french seam on the sleeves and side seam and found it more tricky.  I personally think it is easier to fit the sleeve and adjust any ease when it is as a tube and in its proper format as you can see what it will look like.

annieeg

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2019, 11:55:30 AM »
Thanks @annieeg. I probably will do it the way they say as I have used that method before many centuries ago. I just wondered was it the easiest...pardon the pun!  0_0
ps what was so bad about your fabric. I'm not using quilted this time but I might if I do it again.
@wrenkins
See attached pics .. the fabric is so awful.... but the coat has a good shape and a nice fit across the shoulders.
I would definitely make it again, but buy a nicer (more expensive) fabric. :(
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]    [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

snoozi soozi

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2019, 12:09:59 PM »
I agree with @Missie that it's easier to sort out your sleeve fit when it does resemble a sleeve and you can slip it on your arm.

For the record I hate fitting sleeves, they're never straightforward  :'(
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

wrenkins

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2019, 12:19:58 PM »
That's great that you took pics annie. There doesn't look like a lot of easing to be done.
@Missie I made a bathrobe last year and did French seams throughout and it was done flat. Thankfully there was no easing at all on that one. This pattern seems similar. Straight lines and no fitting.  :)
@snoozi soozi noooooooo!!!! Don't say that.
I have traced my pattern...ooooo get me.... so I'm nearly ready to start. All I need to do is find and don my big girl pants.
I've made a couple of adjustments. The sleeves no longer flare out like bell e**ds and the front where the collar joins on, I've brought round straight instead of curving down. I'll measure the new collar length with string (?) unless there's a proper way of doing it and then run the binding up the whole lot instead of across at the base of the collar. That's the plan!  :S

Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

b15erk

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2019, 12:21:53 PM »
I often wondered why patterns used the tube method of fitting sleeves, when fitting flat was so much easier.

Over the years, I've realised that it is by far the best method, particularly for wovens, and is indeed far easier to adjust as a tube.

Flat fitting I tend to keep for stretch fabrics, particularly t shirts.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

wrenkins

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2019, 12:26:03 PM »
I'll go with that then thanks Jessie. There is no short cut to experience.  0_0
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

snoozi soozi

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2019, 12:29:04 PM »
@wrenkins I'm impatient and a bit tick so I just don't like fiddly stuff, buttonholes are another tear-jerker.

Try both methods and see which you prefer  ;)
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

doesntworkonwood

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2019, 12:29:53 PM »
From what I've read, and I admit I'm not the most knowledgeable, the two ways of inserting a sleeve are dependent on the level of formality.

I think that this is because sewing a sleeve in flat gives a greater range of motion because you end up with a sleeve like |—, so its appropriate for knit garments such as t-shirts as well as more casual clothes.

A set in sleeve ends up looking like this |\ instead, which when you think about it is where you're arms naturally are most of the time. However, this doesn't really give a lot of range of motion, but it does mean that the sleeve fits really nicely (when you're not reaching up to grab things etc), which is what you want for more formal occasion.

I think that coats and jackets count as more 'formal' because most people don't really run around in them, or move their arms a lot in them. So in your case, I think that the set in sleeve is probably the most appropriate for your pattern. That said, if you want to do one over the other, no ones going to stop you and they probably wont even notice anyway!

Missie

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2019, 12:34:38 PM »
@wrenkins  Just had a quick look at your pattern and that is lovely, very cute.  What fabric are you using.  Just thinking that as it is a coat, you may need to apply steam to get the easing sorted and a nice shape to the sleeve head, which you won't be able to do by doing it flat.

wrenkins

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2019, 12:40:33 PM »
I love the advice you get on here. You can do this l- but this l\ is better.  0_0 I know exactly what you mean and it makes perfect sense.
Two different ways Snoozi? I'll end up like...who was it, Jan or Riccardo on the Sewing Bee? One in back to front. I have form for that kind of thing you know (gardening trouser pockets 2018!).
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

sewingj

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2019, 12:48:24 PM »
Just to say - at risk of offence - you`re right - that fabric is dreadful!

Missie

Re: Sleevies.
« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2019, 12:49:32 PM »
Two different ways Snoozi? I'll end up like...who was it, Jan or Riccardo on the Sewing Bee? One in back to front.

Oh yes!  Lost count of the number of T-shirts I have for that one  :S