The Sewing Place

Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?

SewRuthieSews

Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« on: May 17, 2019, 13:00:29 PM »
I've cut out a cardigan and a skirt from a stretch faux suede remnant.
However it resists the straight stitch on the sewing machine. The machine is OK and will stitch properly on a scrap of bengaline, but somehow can't make stitches on the faux suede even though it goes along as though it is sewing.
I can stitch the faux suede on the overlocker and coverhem OK, but not the sewing machine.
I tried using tissue paper but that didn't seem to help. I'm thinking new needle or if that fails construction on the overlocker and coverhem (not so easy for topstitching).

Any thoughts?

Efemera

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2019, 13:07:51 PM »
That’s odd, don’t know what to suggest other than changing needles...try a microtex one.

Kwaaked

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2019, 13:15:34 PM »
Try a walking foot, roller foot or teflon foot.

If it is thick, use a size 14 sharp and lengthen the stitch to 6 SPI or 4 to 4.5 MM.

b15erk

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2019, 13:17:34 PM »
You could try a Teflon foot, but if you don't have one, I've heard a strip of tape along the bottom of your foot may work.

Could it be snagging on the feed dogs?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2019, 14:04:27 PM »
I do have a walking foot and a Teflon foot, not tried either of those. It isn't bunching or anything like that.

The needle looks odd when its sewing, the thread sort of loops up round the needle, and then when you stop it all pulls out.
Its not leaving any holes that I can see, and the faux suede is on a knit base of some sort with extra loft to the fibres which gives the suede effect.

I had a look at the cardigan construction and I could do that solely on the overlocker, so I might well do that.
The skirt has a back split and a waistband so don't think that's work great on the overlocker.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2019, 15:14:05 PM »
Is there any Lycra in this fabric?  Is it stretchy at all?   

SewRuthieSews

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2019, 16:37:51 PM »
Its very stretchy. In both directions.

I've assembled the cardigan (Style Arc Nina) on the overlocker except for the coverhemmed sleeve hems.
I normally stitch on the normal sewing machine first and then overlock afterwards as I was always concerned about pins ruining the overlocker blade (a bit more expensive then a needle).
However I have some of those mini clips now, so used those to hold the seams together and sewed the cardigan together on the overlocker.
I haven't finished the edges yet, and may yet set the other overlocker up for a nice rolled hem or just take the rotary cutter to the jagged edges. It was tricky to cut with shears as it caught on the blade and went a bit raggedy

BrendaP

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2019, 18:08:02 PM »
Could you use just one needle in the coverstitcher and make a chain stitch instead of the regular machine lockstitch for the bits where you need a straight stitch?
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2019, 18:15:57 PM »
Might be an idea to use a stretch needle to deal with the elastane in it.  My guess is the fabric is holding onto the needle.  Stretch needles, not ball point, are designed to prevent this. 

SewRuthieSews

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2019, 18:20:20 PM »
OK I have stretch needles so I will try one.
Thanks for the tip.

SewRuthieSews

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2019, 18:25:27 PM »
Thanks @Ohsewsimple put a Schmetz stretch needle and its sewing fine now.

Fascinating stuff!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2019, 22:08:48 PM »
Oh that’s good to know.   :)
Hope you get it all finished ok now.

Catllar

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2019, 20:01:13 PM »
Just seen this thread - I made  a set of flamenco dresses from this stuff a couple of years back and I did it on the 3 thread overlocker.  Worked fine. Horrid stuff to work with - vile to touch!
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

SewRuthieSews

Re: Tricky stretch faux suede - any ideas?
« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2019, 22:02:56 PM »
I really like the feel of my faux suede, its soft and slightly furry on both sides. It did resist the scizzors, the sewing machine needle and sticks together a bit but I still like it.

The skirt is not yet finished, but the Cardigan got done quite quickly on the overlocker, with just the sleeve hems on the cover stitch.