The Sewing Place

Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!

WildAtlanticWay

Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« on: June 21, 2019, 16:46:30 PM »
I’m now wondering if I’ve been a tad ambitious.  :|

I ordered the Style Arc Estelle coatigan pattern (it says EASY!) and a pretty blue flower print design in Ponte Roma as that was recommended by the pattern.

However, it’s arrived and is slightly stretchy and I’ve never sewn a stretch knit fabric before.  :S

Please give me your top tips for sewing this type of fabric and...if I made a toile in muslin fabric, would that work because muslin isn’t stretchy...??? Does it need pre-washing?

Also, what’s the sizing like in Style Arc patterns? As it’s a coat style, it is more important to go by the bust size rather than waist and hips because I’m more of an apple shape?

I’m happy to have a go but don’t want to waste decent fabric.

Fabric Lover

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2019, 17:02:35 PM »
If you’re going to do a muslin you need to use fabric with the same amount of stretch or it would be pointless. Yes I would pre-wash the fabric. I would go by the bust size as it’s easier to add to the side seams for the waist and hips, but I’ve never made Style Arc pattern up so can’t help there. Make sure you use a needle suitable for knit fabric.
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Fabric Lover

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2019, 17:04:23 PM »
And also a narrow zigzag stitch so that the seams will stretch with the fabric otherwise your seam could break.
Stitching in Staffordshire with Style! (Well hopefully anyway)

Acorn

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2019, 17:54:07 PM »
The pattern should tell you how much ease there will be.  If not, the details on the Style Arc website say that the size 10 finished measurements are:
Bust = 103 cm or 40.5”
Centre back length = 84 cm or 33”
Shoulder breadth = 36.5 cm or 14.5”
Sleeve length = 60 cm or 23.5”

You then add 2 inches to the bust for each size above 10 (or subtract them for below size 10).  As they don't give the waist and hip measurements I would assume they're going to be the same as the bust.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

WildAtlanticWay

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2019, 19:38:03 PM »
@Acorn  oh dear, that’s what’s confusing me. I really am a newbie!

The pattern says size 10 is based on bust size 40.5 inches

However, you scroll down to their size chart and for a size 10 the bust is 36.2 inches.
More than 4 inches difference.

Does this mean that it has 4 inches of ease around the bust area built into the garment to fit a person with a 36.2 inch bust?




Acorn

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2019, 19:45:41 PM »
Yes!  :D  And the ease should be the same for any other size - so a size 14 (40.2 inch bust) should have an actual measurement of 44.5 inches, size 20 (46.5 inch bust) should be 50.8 inches. 

I always think it would be sooo easy for them to write out the table of finished measurements, and much more reassuring for people making the garment.

It should be a very forgiving pattern anyway, with the waterfall front, so I wouldn't worry too much.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Helen M

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2019, 21:06:46 PM »
I find ponte an easy fabric to sew with as it's pretty stable. As said before it's best to use a slight zig zag stitch. I usually leave the stitch length the same as if I was using a straight stitch but set the zig zag width to no more than 0.5 which is almost straight.

If you really want to do a muslin why not get some T shirt knit fabric and try that. I'm sure you'll find the ponte easier to sew though! Something to watch for on the Estelle (I've made the Harper jacket which has similarities) when you come to use your good fabric is that there are no hems so make sure you cut the edges nice and straight.

The newer patterns do seem to have finished measurements for all sizes which is a big help.
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far:  1.5 metres  ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 55

WildAtlanticWay

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2019, 21:43:58 PM »
Phew, this makes perfect sense now and probably helps explain why my last top was far too big when I’d finished it. I cut it larger to allow a roomier fit but it’s mahoooosive.

I’m quite excited to get started now.  :)

Ros

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2019, 17:47:46 PM »
I made this recently in ponte. I trusted the size guide and that worked fine. Potentially a touch wide in the shoulders but nothing i cant live with.

As has been noted your cutting lines are very much on show so be careful. The neckline was a bit of a fiddle but it looks fine when done.

Vezelay

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #9 on: June 25, 2019, 00:19:07 AM »
Assuming you don't have an overlocker, then I'd be using a stretch needle a walking foot and a rotary cutter to make life easier. Fit is more forgiving with knits so I don't make a muslin but I might use some less precious fabric first. Even then, your next fabric could behave quite differently as I've found to my cost (and the charity shop's gain).

Also Have you read the reviews on PatternReview - always useful - and there are a lot of PR forum posts with queries and answers about construction. I'd be heading there first. Good luck!

WildAtlanticWay

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2019, 12:53:10 PM »
Assuming you don't have an overlocker, then I'd be using a stretch needle a walking foot and a rotary cutter to make life easier.

Thank you. Actually, I do have a basic overlocker so would you advise using this to sew the seams?

Helen M

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2019, 13:32:07 PM »
Ponte doesn't need to be overlocked as it won't fray.

Check the pattern for instructions, does it have a centre back seam?

From memory the Harper and Estelle have a similar centre back treatment. I made mine out of a lightweight jersey (it was a sort of muslin and I use it as a cardigan) and I just overlocked the seams (mine is only a 3 thread machine but does the job fine).

I have a feeling that you may have to press the seams open and top stitch either side which means you can't overlock even if you wanted to. My friend in US made the Harper but I think she changed the seaming. I wore the jacket (we are like twins!) over there and she emailed me some changes she had made. I'm looking out the email and I'll come back to you and try and locate my Harper pattern in the meantime.
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far:  1.5 metres  ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 55

WildAtlanticWay

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2019, 13:49:47 PM »
The school holidays have started here so I’m in juggling mode. I haven’t cut out the pattern yet because I want to allow a couple of hours of uninterrupted time to do it carefully, so not sure when I will make a start. Hopefully, this week!

I really appreciate everyone’s comments and suggestions. It almost like having you in the room urging me on.  :)

Helen M

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2019, 14:32:47 PM »
Glad it all helps!

Located the email about the Harper! It is the seam on the back collar that we both changed. For some reason they tell you to do a French seam on Ponte...... too thick and not needed as it is enclosed. Check your instructions for that part because it will be very bulky if they say the same on the Estelle.
Stash Busting 2024 - Goal: 25 metres
So far:  1.5 metres  ------ Donated : 0 metres
Items decluttered: 55

Ros

Re: Style Arc pattern plus Ponte Roma stretch - aaaargh!
« Reply #14 on: June 27, 2019, 09:19:45 AM »
On the estelle you sew the seam as normal and then sew the seam allowance down close to the edge. A bit like a flat fell without tucking under. So your cut lines are not hidden. A sharp rotary is your friend here. Not the mostly sharp but with one small blunt bit that I used.