The Sewing Place

Butterick B6026

b15erk

Butterick B6026
« on: July 01, 2019, 11:45:05 AM »
I actually managed to cut out a toile for this at the weekend, hopefully it will be wearable, if not, I've reduced the stash.

Glad I went down the toile route though, as I've hit a few snags.  Nothing major, but it would be nice to get them sorted before I do the 'proper' blouse.

Firstly, the sleeves are too big.  I did the sleeveless version, and there are separate pattern pieces for this, and the sleeves are still too big, so I need to sort this out before I do the next version.

Then the whole thing feels big.  This may sort itself out as I haven't washed the fabric, and I'm sure it's cotton.  But, I do need to do a size down before I do the next version.

Lastly the collar.  I usually do the collar and stand by wrapping the stand around the neck edge for a few inches.  I didn't do it this time, and I wish I had.  Butterick have you folding the stand up first.  Not really happy with this, I'll have to fiddle about with it to make it look OK.

Anyone have a failsafe method for attaching a collar and stand? 

Still, this looks as if I may be able to wear it when it's finished, so that's OK.

Forgot to add, the sleeve binding is very wide, need to make it much slimmer.

Jessie  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

maliw

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2019, 11:47:36 AM »
Ooooh I like the detailing of the darts.
At leisure on the leisure penninsula

sewingj

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2019, 17:57:31 PM »
I made this twice before I had learnt about making adjustments for fit. The long sleeved version was ok but the armholes on the sleeveless version were too big.
As I became more experienced I realized I should have made a small bust adjustment and couldn't work out how to do that without messing up the tucks so I haven't made it again.

Samantha

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2019, 21:13:12 PM »
Oooh nice starburst effect with the darts!

classical retro

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2019, 00:10:35 AM »
There is a thread about this pattern in In the Wardrobe, Pattern Discussion Butterick 6028 started on 13 June. Holly Berry has done a bust adjustment too. If I knew how to link from the forum I would. Hope this helps.
CR :angel:

Kwaaked

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2019, 07:28:09 AM »
On collars, I pretty much change the order or the way patterns tell you to do it.  Both of these are close enough for explaining:

https://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html?m=1 
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2011/02/mens-shirt-sew-along-13-new-collar-for.html

The first is women's wear which is sewn to the inside, menswear is usually top stitched to the outside and MPB does his as that.   Technically, they are both identical, just depends on what you want to do.  And while I do both, I also baste far more then most people, but
a) I can baste as fast as most people can pin
b) I can make sure it all works before sewing (and on men's high end shirts the stitch length is much, MUCH shorter, so removing stitches can and often will ruin the fabric)
c) I can assure pattern matching when applicable
and d) No fun surprises.

While this is certainly not a new method, or even one anyone can lay claim to, I either learned it from the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences from the 1918 version or the 1924-ish set (I don't see it in the 1930s version and never worked through that set).  Or from the Bishop method circa 1950s.

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2019, 09:14:29 AM »
Ladies, thank you all for your kind words.

@Kwaaked I've had a quick look at the links you posted and will go back later for a closer look, all good stuff, thank you!

@classical retro I will trot on over to In the Wardrobe for a looksee.  I really like this blouse, and would like to have it finished to a reasonable standard.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

SkoutSews

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2019, 09:17:59 AM »
Those are very helpful tips for collar construction, thank you.

@b15erk the shirt is looking good! I like the floral facings with the plain fabric and the plain fabric shows the tuck detailing nicely. But those armscyes do look huge! Good luck with scaling them down.

(I was searching for this thread to post a reply and was surprised to see that it's in the Darkside section!)

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2019, 09:32:38 AM »
@SkoutSews , I know!  I don't know what happened there, but I don't know how to move it!

Looking at those arms, I can't leave them like that and wear it, so I may bit the bullet and take some excess out directly from the side seams.  I'll fold it out first to see how it looks, fortunately, I had intended it to be a toile, so I can always wear it in the garden!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2019, 09:34:50 AM »
@classical retro , I've been looking for In the Wardrobe, but only found the Laura Ashley blog.  Do you have any other details?  I'm getting a lot of results for bedroom furniture... :S :D ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2019, 10:12:52 AM »
@classical retro , so sorry.  Wrong end of stick.  What a numpty I am!

I've just re-read the discussion on our very own TSP!  Why didn't I go there first?  :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

sewingj

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2019, 11:32:58 AM »
When I made the sleeveless version there was an awful lot of bra on show!  Today I`m wearing a different sleeveless top and realised the armholes are a perfect size - and that I really ought to make a record of this so I can refer to it when I make anything sleeveless in future!

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2019, 11:53:13 AM »
@sewingj I watched one of Peggy Sagers Sihouette Pattern YouTube tutorials, and she recommends using a template for your different armhole sizes - in fact she sells plastic ones.  Pity I didn't remember this when I cut out this pattern!

I won't forget next time!

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Acorn

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2019, 15:57:34 PM »
Hold onto your hats, we're on the move...
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

b15erk

Re: Butterick B6026
« Reply #14 on: July 03, 2019, 09:45:17 AM »
@Acorn , Thank You!

Went home last night, not really in the mood for sewing.  So, I decided these problems were not going to fix themselves, and I set to unpicking the seams.  Just got to work out now how much to take in, to raise the armhole a little.  It would have been easier if I hadn't trimmed the seam allowances down. I really do need to make a pattern alteration as the sleeveless blouse is very gapey.

I'm also considering replacing the collar stand as I'm not altogether happy with it, but it is after all a toile, so I may not bother.  I should have just used the method I normally use.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.