The Sewing Place

Birthday Party Dress

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2019, 22:39:08 PM »
I've finally finished the third toile and this is as close to a good fit as I think I am going to get.

It's taught me a lot about fitting a wrap bodice and the challenges. Being full busted but with wide set boobs means that I'm asking the fabric to fall off the bust apex in four directions. Normally you're only asking for three, as the horizontal line between both bust apexes is straight (like a "mono boob" I guess). In woven fabric this is really hard to do but this is pretty close and I'm happy with it. And everything looks worse in white polycotton!

The only thing is I find it wrinkles in the middle a little bit but I think that will be remedied better with a little weight from the skirt pulling it down.

Also the whole thing has a wide sash over the front with a pleat in it so I think the fit on the upper bust is more important.

My next plan is to try and walk the sleeve in and see how much I need to add or remove. If the sleeve is too big I will probably just gather it on the shoulder seam because I'm lazy and it'll work with a flutter sleeve.

Then I just need to measure round the new waist and expand the skirt to accommodate.

Manuela

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2019, 00:37:12 AM »
@Francesca, I’d recommend to baste the skirt on and have another check. The weight of the skirt does matter as it influences the fit of the bodice.

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2019, 10:31:34 AM »
I did consider that but honestly I don't think I'm going to get a better fit either way here. There isn't really anywhere else I can pinch out to improve fit, just that a gentle pull downwards helps one of the main wrinkles fall out. The sash will cover most of it.

Elnnina

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #18 on: July 29, 2019, 11:26:03 AM »
Fran there is/was something available called Vilene Fusible Bias Edge Tape -  use this tape anywhere that is prone to stretch, shoulder seams, necklines and armholes for example.  Ensure that the stitch line of the tape sits on the seam line, widest side to the edge.   Use a dry iron, wool setting for six seconds to ensure bonding.  Stretch slightly to ease garment on to tape as you press.  This information came from Janet Molville when she was writing for Sewing World, so is a good few years ago now.  This tape was available in white or charcoal and you could buy by the metre. 

However I also have in my stash something else by Vilene called Edge Tape, this is an iron on stitch reinforced tape and came on a roll of 20m x 2cm. in a poly bag with an instruction sheet.

Lastly I have some Vlieseline bias tape T12,  12mm x 5m comes in white and charcoal - this I obtained via Amazon when I couldn't put my hands on the tapes above, and of course as soon as it arrived I found the original tapes - isn't that always the way.  I also sent up some of this Vlieseline bias tape to Bodgetandscarper when she was making her 'mother of the bridegroom dress' as time was crucial.

I believe the huge angle of the front of wrap bodices have a nasty tendency to stretch however careful you are, and if you can get some of this bias tape and adhere this to the neckline before you move the freshly cut piece off the cutting table then you might be lucky and not get any stretch, you have nothing to lose from this.

So far you bodice is looking good, and as you say the weight of the skirt could make it pull down, if you do not want this to happen then making a waist stay would be a good idea.  Love the colour and pattern of your fabric choice, should look stunning when finished.

Another tip I learned from one of my bosses many, many years ago, was to sew the middle of a piece of elastic in the middle of the bodice underneath, i.e. the wrong side of the bodice, and then take this elastic around your body and fasten at the back - this then stops the front of your bodice falling away from your body should you lean forward.  Another way you can do this but on a different style front, is to cover a piece of lightweight boning in lining fabric and attach strategically to the underside of the front of your bodice but just high enough that this piece of boning can be tucked inside your bra and again this stops everything from flopping forward.

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #19 on: July 29, 2019, 11:56:36 AM »
Oh perhaps I should clarify. I do want it to pull down. It seems to straighten out some of the wrinkling when it does (and I noticed when the wrap is pinned together at the lower edge it's much better.

Thanks for the edging idea, I'll look into that.

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #20 on: July 29, 2019, 22:34:12 PM »
Started cutting. Eeek! I had to adjust the sleeves just a little as I cut the armhole a bit wider. I've just realised that I didn't adjust them enough, duh, because I had trimmed the back armhole a little. However I haven't yet cut out the sleeve so I must remember that! (I have cut out the back piece, but luckily I only need to remove not add!)

Also cut the back skirt out, and have now just thought that I intended to pinch out an extra 3cm from the front that I hadn't transferred to the patterns yet so I will have to remember to consider that in the front skirt too. And I just widened it, grr. It does have a pleat though so maybe I should just be lazy and pleat it deeper.

The pattern suggests a full lining but my fabric is very thin and I don't have anything decent to line it with so I am considering going fully unlined and doing a narrow self bias finish on the neckline. Giving the dress a floatier look and also not adding any extra layers as it's already going to be quite warm as it's polyester. I do have plans to make a slip for the future.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2019, 22:35:53 PM by Francesca »

Ohsewsimple

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #21 on: July 30, 2019, 09:54:59 AM »
I always have to write notes of any alterations I make or need to make on a sticky and attach to the pattern pieces.  I know I’m going to forget when I go back to it.  I put it down to my age!   :)

jintie

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #22 on: July 30, 2019, 13:44:15 PM »
I use tiny transparent snaps for hidden closures.
Rottweiler with scissors

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #23 on: August 02, 2019, 09:31:19 AM »
I completed the bodice last night and I LOVE it.

Only thing I think needs work is that the sash doesn't hug me as closely as I'd like (might be due to it being such drapey fabric) and I will probably use a few handstitches to grab the top of it and keep it close to the bodice as the top edge sags. But it's only really decorative.


Acorn

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #24 on: August 02, 2019, 09:59:55 AM »
It looks as though that wrap works beautifully - well done!  It really suits you, too.   :D
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

Missie

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #25 on: August 02, 2019, 11:41:02 AM »
@Francesca that is beautiful; looks really lovely.

Ploshkin

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #26 on: August 02, 2019, 13:49:42 PM »
You've got a great fit there, well done.
Life's too short for ironing.

Francesca

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #27 on: August 03, 2019, 00:45:45 AM »
It's nearly 1am but it's done!

Lachica

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #28 on: August 03, 2019, 07:08:39 AM »
Lovely! I like the hanger too - had a double take there as thought you'd had a drastic haircut!
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Birthday Party Dress
« Reply #29 on: August 03, 2019, 10:50:44 AM »
Very nice!  Never seen a hanger like that :)