The Sewing Place

Best way to adjust for too tight armscye

Vezelay

Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« on: July 07, 2019, 10:55:30 AM »
This is a recurring problem for me with wovens so I'd really love to have a patent method to solve it quickly each time. My clothes have to be comfortable so if the armhole of a top is even a bit tight I simply don't wear it and eventually it goes to the kitten shop (local SPCA).

At the moment I kind of wing it, sewing a narrower seam or widening or lowering the armhole - and sleeve - on the pattern, or sizing up as the mood takes me. It often works but my methods are rather random.

What's the best method to use? Is there a good tutorial out there?

Thanks a mil
V


jesster

Re: Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2019, 14:09:04 PM »
As I have narrow and square shoulders, I often need to adjust for that.  I have both woven and knit patterns in which the sleeve/shoulder fit perfectly.  I traced the armscye and shoulder areas of the F and B, and the top of the sleeve from those patterns onto a sturdy pattern material.  I simply lay/pin them over the relevant areas of a new pattern (making sure of the correct shoulder width and using the appropriate knit or woven one) and cut.  Works every time, even with weight fluctuations.  It saves all the slashing and shifting and taping on new patterns.  Patterns with intricate design elements in the upper sleeves are another issue, of course.

Vezelay

Re: Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2019, 19:03:44 PM »
Great idea @jesster which makes perfect sense. I will bookmark that for future use as soon as I have a woven pattern with a perfectly fitting one piece sleeve  :).

The tunic I'm working on today has slightly dropped shoulder seams anyway. I've sized up x 1 and lowered armholes and sleeve cap 5/8" - that's more guess than science. My muslin armholes were really tight and life is too short to make another.

 

jesster

Re: Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2019, 20:03:33 PM »
@Vezelay ,
I think I misunderstood what you're trying to do.  Are you saying it feels as though you can't lift your arm without the sleeve binding?  If so, this video might be helpful. 
This Threads article talks about armscye fitting in general and may give you some possible starting points for figuring out where to begin other adjustments.  Getting a good fit is worth the time and effort and draping is much easier with a helper.  Once you have the right shape, it can be used to adjust other patterns.
I hope this better addresses what you were asking :)

Vezelay

Re: Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2019, 23:17:51 PM »
Thanks @jesster. Just watched the video and read the article you linked. My feeling is that some armholes, mainly woven, are just too tight. Maybe they do restrict my arm movement as well but I think the main issue is their being too small for me. Either I need more ease than most or else I'm oddly shaped in that area.

However, you and the article have given me an idea! I don't have a willing helper but I do have a fitting expert 15 minutes away. No classes in the summer but for a fee I'm sure she'd agree to help me make a bodice sloper. She already did that with my Style Arc Elle pant which now works for any jeans pattern.

I'll email her tomorrow :)

jesster

Re: Best way to adjust for too tight armscye
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2019, 13:49:55 PM »
That's a great idea.  Once you know the alteration/s you need, it all gets easier.  Best of luck with it!