The Sewing Place

Trapeze dress

jen

Trapeze dress
« on: July 18, 2019, 07:14:00 AM »
Anyone else making these? I’m having a lovely time running up some for one daughter, virtually no fitting, just a breeze. Some of the stash is getting used, all good.

SkoutSews

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2019, 08:39:49 AM »
This sounds interesting and perfect for the hot weather (which we aren't getting  :'( ).  Which pattern are you using?

Clareew

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2019, 23:18:26 PM »
This is a good one Pauline Alice Dress

jen

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2019, 15:29:26 PM »
I drafted the pattern. Not a big deal as I already had a sheath dress draft which fits dd. It was just a case of slash and spread. First version has tulip sleeves, second version has a wide neckline and the shoulder extended a bit to make the sleeve.

jen

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2019, 17:06:46 PM »
Just finished another one. I had just over a metre of a really nice brocade. To ring the changes I made the back seam into a feature, using the selvedge which had a frayed fringe bit beyond the usual solid strip. I stitched the seam RS together, pressed it open and top stitched, then made a scrap of it into a bow at the neck. These dresses are fun, because they’re so simple you can play about with pretty bits.

jen

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2019, 07:32:00 AM »
Sooo, bored with this already? I finished another, this time in a lightweight silky poly, adding more hem width for extra float, which I thought the fabric needed. DD2 wore it yesterday, loves it, so all good.

SkoutSews

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2019, 09:09:11 AM »
I drafted the pattern. Not a big deal as I already had a sheath dress draft which fits dd. It was just a case of slash and spread. First version has tulip sleeves, second version has a wide neckline and the shoulder extended a bit to make the sleeve.
Just trying to get my inexperienced sewing head round all this. You slash a vertical line from just below the apex (or from the waistline?) to the hem, then spread as much as you need to give the look you want? Then do the same (no apex, obvs) to the back pattern piece?
Sorry to ask ridiculously simple questions!

snoozi soozi

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2019, 11:36:57 AM »
I've done a similar thing myself with a simple round necked top pattern; my version included placing the front and back pattern pieces on the fabric fold, pinning at the neckline and pulling away from the fold until I had it where I wanted it. Does that make sense?

Of course this makes it bigger everywhere, ok for me, but if you don't want to increase the chest/bust area then a slashing exercise would be better  ;)
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

Catllar

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2019, 23:35:07 PM »
Just trying to get my inexperienced sewing head round all this. You slash a vertical line from just below the apex (or from the waistline?) to the hem, then spread as much as you need to give the look you want? Then do the same (no apex, obvs) to the back pattern piece?
Sorry to ask ridiculously simple questions!

Yes that's exactly it and no it's not a daft question.
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Ohsewsimple

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2019, 13:42:52 PM »
I do have pattern cutting instructions if anyone wants them. Obviously there’s several different ways to do it depending on outcome you want. Happy to email. 

jen

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2019, 06:52:19 AM »
For the first ones, where the fabric had some heft (lightweight crepe ) I took the pattern for a shaped sheath, which is effectively a dress block, and set it at a slight angle, adding half an inch to the Cf. Daughter is D cup, so I slashed from hem to apex and closed only part of the front bust dart, opening up the middle part of the front pattern. I drew side seams below the bust dart which flared out slightly. Then I added an equivalent amount into the back pattern in three places, CB, middle by slashing, side seam by eyeballing. For the floaty silky fabric one I closed off the whole of the bust dart and increased the flare in the other two places. None of the fabric I used for these was super precious, so I didn’t bother with toiles.  That’s the basic shapes, so necklines, sleeve arrangements and details differed. Being basically without any fitting and just hanging from the shoulders these dresses were about the quickest I’ve ever made, great stash busters.

snoozi soozi

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2019, 07:48:02 AM »
@jen I'm loving the detailed description of the construction, but please tell me you put pockets on them somewhere. A floaty dress isn't complete without pockets  ;)
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

SkoutSews

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2019, 10:11:15 AM »
Thanks for the description @jen . That does sound straightforward and as you say, a simple make. Next have had a lot of this type of summer dress in stock, both this year and last, but they're too short for me in addition to the other fitting issues, so I didn't buy. With the info you've given I'll be able to adapt an existing pattern.

Your daughter is very lucky to have such a generous and capable mum!

jen

Re: Trapeze dress
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2019, 17:57:37 PM »
@snoozisoozi afraid I skipped pockets. I didn’t have enough fabric to add to the side seam, as the pieces dovetailed without much space for seam allowance. Dd seems unbothered by that though. She wore it straight away, first without any other topper, then under a leather jacket. I was pretty gratified that it looked ok, most previous dresses she’s worn have been fitted.
@ SkoutSews This one finished at knee level. I can’t carry this style off either, just makes me look as though I’m trying a bit too hard.