The Sewing Place

Changing armhole and sleeve size

WendyW

Changing armhole and sleeve size
« on: July 20, 2019, 17:55:01 PM »
I'm making some shirts for my sister. I made her a muslin from a chosen commercial pattern chosen for styling, and also had her try on one of my shirts from my self-drafted pattern. Mine fits her better overall and she prefers certain construction details on mine, BUT, though it fits her well overall, the sleeve and armhole are huge on her. I've done some searching for how to make the alteration for a smaller sleeve and armhole, but I'm getting two types of results, neither of which is what I need. I'm getting how to do a quick fix on a purchased t-shirt, or how to make armhole adjustments that don't affect the sleeve size. I need to correct both. I THINK I know what I need to do, but would prefer some confirmation before I continue. Since this is a self-drafted pattern, I don't have the option of simply cutting a smaller size sleeve/armscye on a multi-size pattern. I can't just use the sleeve from the purchased pattern because that one has a kimono-cut sleeve instead of a set-in sleeve.

b15erk

Re: Changing armhole and sleeve size
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2019, 18:50:28 PM »
I've been having a think about this too @WendyW . I thought I might have a go at reducing the armhole by cutting through to centre front and centre back and raising by the required amount. Not tried it yet though, and no idea how you would alter the sleeve to fit.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BrendaP

Re: Changing armhole and sleeve size
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2019, 10:02:01 AM »
I thought I might have a go at reducing the armhole by cutting through to centre front and centre back and raising by the required amount.

Jessie

I've done the opposite of that to make the armholes a bit bigger.  You need to slash the pattern to make it longer/bigger, but to make it smaller/shorter you only need to make a pleat in the pattern

You need to slash/fold horizontally at high bust level or even a bit higher; try to do it where the arm scye seam is vertical (on grain).  If you make the front and the back, say, half an inch smaller you will need to make the sleeve cap a full inch smaller.

If the pleat/slash across the front bodice goes through the neckline you might need to adjust that too.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.