The Sewing Place

Should I have made this collar stiffer?

sewingj

Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« on: July 28, 2019, 12:04:09 PM »
I`ve become very fussy since mixing with you ladies and I`m not happy with the collar on this blouse.  When I`m wearing it, it develops quite a noticeable crease/fold especially towards the back.
The blouse is made from a lightish weight cotton (heavier than lawn) and I used a lightweight interfacing for the yoke - and for the collar and collar stand.
 Would it have been better if I had used stiffer interfacing for the collar?  And for the stand?  It`s not a particularly big collar so I don`t think that is causing the problem.

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Ohsewsimple

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2019, 12:46:06 PM »
@sewingj  I’m wondering if the collar pattern needs altering.  I wouldn’t be using stiffer interfacing in a light cotton.  Do you possibly have  a high rounded back?   I will check my books but wondering if the outside edge of the collars needs slashing and spreading a bit to allow it to sit properly.

HenriettaMaria

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2019, 13:02:11 PM »
I'm also thinking the collar is the wrong shape.  It's possible it either needs the depth reduced so it's only as deep as the collar stand is high, or else its curvature increased, possibly by spreading the pattern piece at the point where it's wrinkling - slash from outer edge to neck stitching line and open a wedge (as if adding a dart).  Might only need a few mm to make the difference so worth testing.

Greybird

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2019, 13:38:15 PM »
Or, alternatively, you could just leave it as it is. If you hadn't pointed out the fold I would never have noticed it and I don't suppose anyone else will either. Lovely fabric.

Acorn

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2019, 13:45:18 PM »
I'm with Greybird!  It would never have occurred to me that there was anything wrong - I would just have thought that it was a lightweight blouse.  I definitely have RTW blouses with collars that are vastly worse than that.

I recently made an alteration to something I'd made for one of my goddaughters.  I remembered that there had been something I wasn't entirely happy about with the item when I made it, but couldn't improve without ripping it up and starting again.  I looked, and looked at it as I was doing the alteration, but I really could not figure out what it was that had so bothered me.  I think we are FAR more critical of our own stuff than we are of RTW.
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

sewingj

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2019, 13:50:42 PM »
@Greybird  |and @Acorn - thanks, I`m not planning to change the collar this time but I`m trying to perfect the pattern for future use (I did quite a lot of work on it getting the fit right everywhere else!)

@HenriettaMaria  and @Ohsewsimple those changes sound a bit daunting but I will bear them in mind next time.

I have now realised that I used an interfacing described as "very soft and lightweight suitable for very light to medium weight fabrics" so I suspect that really wasn`t suitable on this occasion.  I`m afraid I tend to use whatever interfacing I have to hand and am rapidly learning that I need to be more selective!

jintie

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2019, 14:08:29 PM »
I would omit the interfacing. And...
At the front, I think you need to lower the neck centre, then adjust the pattern.
Rottweiler with scissors

Ohsewsimple

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2019, 15:09:30 PM »
If this is a light cotton that interfacing is fine.  Many people view interfacing as a 'stiffener' and that is not what it should be......unless that is the effect you want.  :o. But I only use soft interfacing which doesn’t affect the handle of the fabric too much. 

mammafairy

Re: Should I have made this collar stiffer?
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2019, 22:12:35 PM »
Love your fabric choice! and I suspect only you notice that crease, it looks lovely, but if it bothers you enough, then the ladies have given you the way to go!