The Sewing Place

Bodice sloper and ease

Mocarroll

Bodice sloper and ease
« on: July 30, 2019, 16:53:30 PM »
I would really like to start drafting my own patterns as I tend to wear very simple shapes. I have been on a course where I was helped to fit using the P&P tissue fitting method. This resulted in me using a size 12 and doing a FBA.  I ended making a muslin which fitted quite well.  However, it has a HUGE bust dart (over 4 inches) and a distorted armhole and there is no ease.
So, I have drafted a bodice block using my measurements and the method described in Natalie Bray’s book. I havent made a muslin yet but pattern looks good, so far.
My question is this...if I am going to draft my own patterns should I use a bodice block which already has wearing ease built in or one without any ease? And is a block with a shoulder dart (my latest attempt, providing it fits!) better than my customised one McCalls M7279 with it’s big bust dart, as a starting point for drafting new designs.
Any advice gratefully received.

Efemera

Re: Bodice sloper and ease
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2019, 17:01:16 PM »
You usually add ease at the design stage... every style will have different amounts of ease. How much ease is personal taste. Depending on your design the large bust dart can be transferred in lots of different ways.

toileandtrouble

Re: Bodice sloper and ease
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2019, 20:16:56 PM »
Don't worry about the distorted armhole, it looks weird but sews up fine.  If you transfer some of the dart to the shoulder, I expect you would end up with something that looks very similar to the block you made.  One of the advantages of moving some of the dart is that you can keep the grain of the fabric better.
Yarn down:  1000g
Fabric down:  29m

Ohsewsimple

Re: Bodice sloper and ease
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2019, 22:09:18 PM »
When you end with a large dart it is often better to distribute that around as @toileandtrouble said.  The block I made at college....many years ago....ended up with  3 darts as did many of us.  This is only a block.  When you make a pattern from it they get moved around again to accommodate the design lines etc.  If you have a well fitting block from the McCalls, why not use that and develop something simple to start? 
A block is a basic pattern but only has basic amounts of ease to allow you to breath and move etc.  When you come to draft blouses, dresses , jackets etc this block is then sized up appropriately.  This will give you the extra ease needed for a particular type of garment plus the required ease to give it the look you want.  That is what is called designer ease.  I have more info if you want it!

BrendaP

Re: Bodice sloper and ease
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2019, 22:42:56 PM »
A sloper/block already has the minimum amount of ease needed to breath and move your arms, anything more is fashion ease and is added as part of the design process.

The more curvy you are, ie the bigger the dart needed, the more likely it is that it will look better with the dart split into two, usually one at the side and one at the waist, but they can be anywhere around the bust apex.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Mocarroll

Re: Bodice sloper and ease
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2019, 10:47:02 AM »
Thank you all you lovely people for your helpful advice. @toileandtrouble I can see what you mean about the strange armhole and actually once I’d removed the seam allowance it didn’t look so odd.
I have a load of gingham bought on a recent trip to Immanuel so I’m going to get sewing.  First attempt will be a little sleeveless top with the darts transferred to pleats in the neckline and then a simple tunic.
I just have to be patient and remember that, in the words of the wise @Morgan this is a process and not a rush to get from A to Z without all the steps in between.  Just wish I had a fitting buddy, hubby’s not really up to the job as he says I look lovely in everything!
Will let you know how I get on.