The Sewing Place

Pattern matching...with a bust dart

Doriefish

Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« on: August 19, 2019, 21:53:07 PM »
Hi everyone,

I have drafted my first pattern for a shift dress with a bust dart on the front, back darts on the back. Also the first time I have used a pattern to be matched - very wide bands. I took ages to cut the back and front perfectly, sewn the shoulders with a combined facing then came to do the sides and...of course the bust dart causes the stripes below the bust to not line up, dur.

Thinking...could I cut the back piece and sew it back together taking out the 5cm so the front and back now match?

Or sew a horizontal fold all the way along the back to the same effect

Will it look weird?

(I will unpick my back darts first and redo them)

Any suggestions?

Will post a photo tomorrow if what I say is not clear


BrendaP

Re: Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2019, 23:03:35 PM »
Assuming the bands (stripes?) are horizontal.

The only way to get side seams pattern matching all the way down is to not have any darts going to the sides.  You could try repositioning the darts in the front bodice round so that they go to shoulders and waist (or any other position not at the side).

Alternatively cut the bodice so that it pattern matches from dart to waist and accept that the seam from armscye to dart won't match.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Doriefish

Re: Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2019, 06:30:22 AM »
I am guessing now you are meant to pattern match from bust dart down. I watched a number of videos and tutorials on tricks to pattern match and none of them mentioned it  :[

wrenkins

Re: Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2019, 07:18:33 AM »
I am usually very good at thinking ahead for 'what ifs' but that had absolutely never occurred to me.  :o
Match patterns from the hem up and also be aware of how the shoulder's going to look when you get there!
It's a minefield!
Good luck getting a 'best fit' solution and thanks for bringing it to my attention @Doriefish:frock:

Note to self: stay awaaaay from pattern matching with your big giant darts!  :ninja:
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

coffeeandcake

Re: Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2019, 08:33:45 AM »
I always pattern match using the notches below the bust darts.  What happens between there and the underarm isn't really going to be seen.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2019, 08:55:46 AM by coffeeandcake »

Doriefish

Re: Pattern matching...with a bust dart
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2019, 11:00:14 AM »
Hi Wrenkins

I spent so much time on getting the shoulders to look nice and was stumped at one point when my test sew was shorter on the back (because I lost 5cm on the front with the same bust dart!) but this still didn't occur to me!

Hi Coffeeandcake,
The bands are really wide, about 18 cm so I think it will be seen although as Wrenkins said, matching from the hem up would have been better

I've got nothing to lose, I am going to cut it and patch it together and if it looks terrible I will make a plain back.

And there I was thinking for once I had sewn everything right first time!