The Sewing Place

Shoulder alteration

WendyW

Shoulder alteration
« on: September 12, 2019, 14:17:51 PM »
A client needs the shoulders taken up in a LBD. It's sleeveless, so don't have to deal with that.  Two questions:

She needs them pulled up about 1.5in, but the back neck curve sits so close to the shoulder seam that there isn't enough shoulder on the back to pull it up that far. The front neckline is low enough to take the whole amount, but will that change the alignment of the front to the back as she's wearing it, or just put the shoulder seam more forward?

Next question: The dress is fully lined, but I have access to the inside of the shoulder as there are no intervening seams. What is the best technique for recreating this shoulder while keeping the neckline smooth. Many shoulder take-ups are easy hatchet jobs, but this is a designer dress (Calvin Klein for $15 at a thrift shop!) so I want it to look really nice.

jintie

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2019, 18:48:46 PM »
I think you need to cut into the back neckline, so you can alter the front and back the same amount.
Personally, before I committed, I would tell her the realistic alteration cost.

Surest1tch

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2019, 15:38:45 PM »
I think you need to cut into the back neckline, so you can alter the front and back the same amount.
Personally, before I committed, I would tell her the realistic alteration cost.
I totally agree with jintie, it's highly likely you'll throw the balance of the dress off totally if you just alter the front and not the back. Obviously I haven't seen the dress but it's probably going to take a lot of work so jintie is absolutely right in suggesting being realistic about pricing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2019, 17:51:56 PM »
Just wondering @WendyW what the reason is for taking it up?  There may be other solutions.

WendyW

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2019, 18:59:58 PM »
The owner is petite/short-waisted and the bodice it too long. The front has trim that would make a waist adjustment very difficult, and then it would still be too long from shoulder to bust point.

BrendaP

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2019, 20:29:34 PM »
I was going to ask if there was a waist seam ...

Taking it all from the shoulders raise the bust point.  Will that be an issue?
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

WendyW

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2019, 00:04:46 AM »

Taking it all from the shoulders raise the bust point.  Will that be an issue?

It will fix an issue.

toileandtrouble

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2019, 03:42:29 AM »
Does it matter that taking up the shoulder will also shorten the armholes?

WendyW

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2019, 05:25:30 AM »
Does it matter that taking up the shoulder will also shorten the armholes?

That is also an improvement.

Efemera

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2019, 07:58:05 AM »
Sounds like a total bodice remake...is it worth the time and effort?

jintie

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2019, 09:45:06 AM »
And is there a zip to reposition?

Ohsewsimple

Re: Shoulder alteration
« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2019, 11:16:34 AM »
I’m with @Efemera I can’t see how you can take the back up that much.  I had to do this on a top for my mum.  Nowhere near this much but I had a devil of a job explaining why it doesn’t really work.  We settled for a bodge job which I hate but she's happy.   But a client is another matter.  I’d say this was a very expensive alteration as I also think it needs totally recutting.