The Sewing Place

Newbie, advice appreciated re: operating a vintage Singer industrial machine

Stew Rowe

Hello to one and all, is it to early for Merry Christmas??? !!!

I am Stew, a 50 something UK fella who has just joined The Sewing Place.  I have absolutely no sewing experience beyond replacing a button or sewing a school badge onto a blazer.  However, I have an industrial sewing machine: a 1936 Singer Industrial 95K10 and want to learn how to use it - to sew seat belt webbing to make a diving harness and similar projects, and hope to receive some advice on how to use the machine.  Some background would be useful first though. 

My grandad, who was like a father to me, was a commercial upholsterer - serving an apprenticeship before WWII and resuming his occupation on his return from a PoW camp in 1945. Grandad worked in a number of upholstery shops until the 1990's, but purchased the Singer industrial sewing machine in the late 1940's and used it at home to supplement his income to support his family.  Grandad could re-cover a three-piece suite, sew a hood for a convertible car,  make leather satchels and straps, repair or alter clothes, make curtains etc: just about anything that involved sewing.  He could also fix anything: cars, plumbing, electrics, electronics, (the skids to my Action Man helicopter in the 1970's!)  etc. and taught me to repair things rather than throw them away.  Grandad passed away in 2000 and rather than see his old sewing machine thrown away I said to the family that I would have it (he sat at that machine for the best part of 50 years and I think that it was part of him).

The sewing machine sat in my shed for nearly 20 years and the plywood table started to delaminate, the pre-war wiring was long past its best (in fact was dangerous), the bobbin winder thingy was rusted and inoperative, but the machine itself looks to still be in good working order.  The electric motor - also apparently pre-war, also appears to be in good order, although I have not yet run it up pending refitting a new power loom.   I have spent weeks gluing the plywood table back together, filling the missing corners and dents, varnishing it, rubbing down the drip tray beneath the machine, the motor mounts, clutch and other metal parts and spraying them all satin black.  I have sourced new wiring - but the cloth covered stuff that is close to the appearance of the pre-war original, and have refurbished the Bakelite plug and on/off switch.  I have earthed the motor and will have it all PAT tested in due course.  I did not want to restore it as such, but have kept the wooden table and machine in a condition that Grandad would recognise as his own - the oil stains and other marks from 83 years of use remain - now smooth and under two coats of varnish.  Other than wiping the machine itself down i will not 'restore' it.  I want to retain the original patina of age.  I have a new leather drive belt on order and some Singer machine oil and original Singer motor lubricant on its way.  In a week or so, I will reassemble and test the machine and I am fairly sure that it will run.  I have found an original manual, which tells me how to time the machine and where to oil it.

That is all well and good, I can fix stuff, but I have absolutely no idea how to operate it!!!.  My first queries are what service parts to replace on the machine?  what is it sensible to replace before thinking about starting sewing?  I guess the needle (apparently the manual says that I should buy an 88x1 No.16 needle for heavy duty material such as webbing - what do those numbers even mean?)  The chrome bobbin case thingy below the needle - should I replace that too?.  What bobbins should I buy? I have serviced and repaired the bobbin winder and it should now work.  What about the metal plate that the needle passes through and the foot that you lower before sewing?  Should I replace the feed dogs? These parts all appear to be available for a 95K but I do not know whether to only buy Singer replacements or can I use pattern parts instead.  Also I have seen general references from suppliers to 95-40 etc.machines and to just 95's - will those parts fit s 95K10?

 I am sorry that i do not know the names of these parts yet but I will learn them as I go along.  Once I have replaced the bits that you guys and gals recommend I will have a few queries about actually sewing!

Any advice and help would be very gratefully received.

best regards to all

Stew




SkoutSews

Hi Stew, welcome to TSP. 

You need to speak to @Roger.  He likes vintage machines and has a 95K. Look at https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,1576.30.html and maybe post on the vintage machines board, I'm sure you'll get support there.

Greybird

Hello and welcome. Sorry I know nothing about your machine but will watch with interest.

hernibs

Welcome - it's a great background- sorry I can't help you either but I've no doubt someone will.

Lilian

Hi and welcome @Stew Rowe  :) I think it's a wonderful thing you re doing and can relate completely with it. My mother would make all of our clothes along with curtains and coats.  I can see her now sitting at the treadle singer.  Sadly she died when I was 12 yrs old and I never got the chance to learn from her.  I wish I could have had her machine  :'(.

@Roger is who will be able to help you the most.  I'm sure he will soon reply.

Happy sewing  :) :vintage:
Willing but not always able :)

Roger

Hi Stew

did someone mention vintage :) they're all metal parts as long as they all look in good shape you should be ok, most all metal vintage machines need very little replaced.

The motor cable sounds like it needs replacing, and if you decide to test it definitely check the electrical specifications on the motor youre looking for 220 or 230 or 240 volt, and use a safety plug. if its been near a lot of damp you may have motor issues, or the electrics could have had the insulation fail on them inside the motor.

95 pieces should be reasonably similar, but unless they look massively worn or you need a specialist part you should be ok, I think I have some spare bobbins you only need a few generally, needles fortunately aren't expensive.

88x1 - is the class of needle (15x1 is the normal sort) 18 is the thickness of the needle (they usually go from 8 - 22 depending on machine...


Does that help?
A bit of a vintage sewing machine nut! Singers: 500a, 401g, 48k Elnas: lotus SP & grasshopper, Bernina 530-2 F+R 504, Pfaff 30, Cresta T-132

Iminei

Hello to one and all, is it to early for Merry Christmas??? !!!

 ><  YES!!

Please calmly make your way to the bathroom and wash that filthy mouth out with some carbolic.

Thank you ! ;)
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

snoozi soozi

@Stew Rowe welcome   :)  I love your intro piece, what a lovely reason for sparking your interest in the wonderful world of sewing  :vintage:

Take other people's advice, not mine  ;)
Let it sew, let it sew, let it sew

Stew Rowe

Thank you all for your friendly welcome and helpful advice.  Roger, i think you are going to be my new best friend!!!. 

The electric motor is a 230/250v model.  I have opened it up and the windings and armatures look fine, as does the internal wiring.  The pre-war, rubber and cloth sheathed power lead had disintegrated but I have replaced that with modern three core twin and earth (cloth covered). 

Thank you for the explanation of the meaning of the needle type.  I will let you all know how I get on

regards

Stew

b15erk

A big welcome from me too @Stew Rowe !  What a great introduction, and what a lovely homage to your Grandad!

Lots of us have Vintage machines (some more than one  :|), but not many of us have Industrial machines.

Lots of help and advice - Roger is a machine Guru!

Hope you manage to get this lovely beast sewing!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

BrendaP

Welcome @Stew Rowe to TSP. 

an 88x1 No.16 needle for heavy duty material such as webbing

88/1 is the British/European size, No 16 is the American size, and it refers to the length and style of the needle.

https://www.hobkirk.co.uk/88x1-industrial-needles is a source for that size needle.  They come in several thicknesses.

88/1 (70) - for sewing very lightweightfabric, ie chiffon or sheer curtains
88/1 (80) - for lightweight fabrics such as shirting
88/1 (90) - for medium weight fabrics including curtain lining and similar, lightweight denim
88/1 (100) - for heavy denim and upholstery fabrics
88/1 (110) - for thick canvas, webbing etc
88/1 (120) - for the very toughest, heaviest fabrics

If the machine is working and all the metal parts look OK they will be OK.  You may well need to replace the rubber tyre which pushes against the bobbin to wind it.

Two sources for vintage Singer machine parts are:
https://www.sewlincs.co.uk/
He's on Facebook under the screen name Dave Dong

http://www.helenhowes-sewingmachines.co.uk/
Helen stocks a lot of spare parts but is discontinuing with the electrical stuff due to the ill health of her partner.

Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Kenora

Welcome from me too - can't help with vintage but will follow your progress with interest. :)
Minding my P's & Q's in Portreath

Stew Rowe

Thanks for the welcome everyone, what a lovely forum.

Brenda, thank you for the two website links.  I have just spent 30 minutes looking around Helen's site and I think she will have parts that I need.  In poking around I have realised that a small part is missing from the end of the bobbin winder and am trying to identify what it is!

Stew

Stew Rowe

Hello all. Just a quick update on Sidney the Sewing Machine (wot? ... other things have names and my Grandad was Sidney!!!)

Sidney started today ... well after a rewire and greased bearings the electric motor runs fautlessly. I cant tell you how happy I am to see the motor whiring round. The clutch is a bit noisy but i can adjust that. Sooo pleased. Just sprayed the metal stand and will reunite the table with it in the next few days.regards to all. Stew

BrendaP

That's great news @Stew Rowe
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.