The Sewing Place

McCall's M7874 top

SkoutSews

McCall's M7874 top
« on: December 09, 2019, 10:56:29 AM »
After asking for advice back in November about topstitching the seams on this McCall's top pattern  I did eventually get round to making it up. The fabric is a thick, bouncy synthetic, almost quilted in appearance and with a reasonable amount of stretch, bought from The Textile Centre. 

The thickness and 'bounciness' of the fabric caused some difficulties.  When cutting on the fold, I pinned the fold in place to try to get an accurate cut, but I still had a mismatch between the side front pattern piece, which is cut on the fold to give the backing to the large front pocket, and the centre front.  I did a slight bodge to overcome this, thankfully all on the inside of the garment, not visible in wear and has no effect on function!  What I did was insert a V-shaped wedge in the pocket backing section.

The overlapped double sections of the collar and the hem band were very awkward.  The thickness was almost too much for my machines.  This caused some stretching out of the fabric in these areas.  The collar doesn't sit right and I might redo it.  When I was fitting it, the pattern notches just didn't seem right and made the collar far too tight, so I fitted it as seemed best.  Then I had the overlap issue to contend with, which stretched out the neckline.  The collar and the hem bands are cut double, sewn together, turned and then overlapped.  That's a lot of layers of thick fabric and neither the collar nor the hem band sit properly.

Fabric clips were my best friend in making this up.  Pins would not stay in the fabric, they dropped straight out.  The clips were brilliant.  They were just cheapies bought off the internet.

The topstitching advice you all gave me was great and I am pleased with the way the topstitching has turned out.  I used a wide three-thread overlock stitch, pressed the seam, then topstitched with a longer than usual stitch length on my sewing machine and all was well.

I followed the pattern instructions for the most part, but I sewed the sleeves in flat and then joined the side and sleeve seams in a one-er.  I couldn't see the point of sewing a set-in sleeve for this pattern and I would do it the same way next time. 

Other changes for next time? I would change the bottom band, either to a single hem band or a coverstitched hem to match the sleeve hems.  The neckline needs to be slightly larger and the collar adjusted accordingly.  The back looks wide still.  I had taken out 2cm at centre back and it needs at least that for me.

If anybody out there wants to give this one a try, do check the sleeve width.  They are narrow.

Final verdict?  I like the lines of this top and it is an everyday winter favourite already. I'll probably make it again in a more co-operative fabric, with adjustments.  I love the big pocket, which holds my phone and glasses, but does make me feel like a large marsupial. With warm paws.

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SkoutSews

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2019, 11:07:14 AM »
Photos in the gallery here

Attachments in the post didn't work.

Ploshkin

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2019, 12:24:43 PM »
Well done for persevering @SkoutSews it does look a difficult fabric to manage and it looks really good.  I do like the pattern.  I can't think why I've never come across it, probably because it would be in the sporty section where I don't venture!  My list of patterns to acquire for future use seems to be growing at the moment  :)
Life's too short for ironing.

Greybird

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2019, 12:38:50 PM »
Very nice - well worth persevering. Lovely pattern matching.

Vezelay

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2019, 22:28:07 PM »
Lovely job and another pattern bookmarked  ;)

Missie

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2019, 10:50:05 AM »
That is a fab and looks great!
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

Sewingsue

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2019, 12:19:40 PM »
My list of patterns to acquire for future use seems to be growing at the moment  :)
Not just me then.

Which reminds me, I wish I had taken a note of the pattern someone posted a while back for a top with IIRC a cowl neck and a gathered front drape.

I will probably never attempt it but a girl can dream.
Bernina Aurora 440QE, Brother BC-2500, Singer 99K (1938), Silver Viscount 620D overlocker.

SkoutSews

Re: McCall's M7874 top
« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2019, 15:10:53 PM »
Thank you all for your kind comments on my slightly hashy top!  It is a good pattern though and the leggings might get made one day too.  Then again perhaps my leggings days are past...

I can't claim any great pattern-matching skill.  I made sure that CF, CB and sleeve head/fall line coincided with the centre line of the 'Ys' in the fabric and left the rest largely to chance.  The line of topstitching in an arc on the front of the top is simply that, a line of stitching to secure the top of the pocket to the front pattern piece. 

I should probably be less honest and let you all think I can actually do it!