After asking for
advice back in November about topstitching the seams on this
McCall's top pattern I did eventually get round to making it up. The fabric is a thick, bouncy synthetic, almost quilted in appearance and with a reasonable amount of stretch, bought from The Textile Centre.
The thickness and 'bounciness' of the fabric caused some difficulties. When cutting on the fold, I pinned the fold in place to try to get an accurate cut, but I still had a mismatch between the side front pattern piece, which is cut on the fold to give the backing to the large front pocket, and the centre front. I did a slight bodge to overcome this, thankfully all on the inside of the garment, not visible in wear and has no effect on function! What I did was insert a V-shaped wedge in the pocket backing section.
The overlapped double sections of the collar and the hem band were very awkward. The thickness was almost too much for my machines. This caused some stretching out of the fabric in these areas. The collar doesn't sit right and I might redo it. When I was fitting it, the pattern notches just didn't seem right and made the collar far too tight, so I fitted it as seemed best. Then I had the overlap issue to contend with, which stretched out the neckline. The collar and the hem bands are cut double, sewn together, turned and then overlapped. That's a lot of layers of thick fabric and neither the collar nor the hem band sit properly.
Fabric clips were my best friend in making this up. Pins would not stay in the fabric, they dropped straight out. The clips were brilliant. They were just cheapies bought off the internet.
The topstitching advice you all gave me was great and I am pleased with the way the topstitching has turned out. I used a wide three-thread overlock stitch, pressed the seam, then topstitched with a longer than usual stitch length on my sewing machine and all was well.
I followed the pattern instructions for the most part, but I sewed the sleeves in flat and then joined the side and sleeve seams in a one-er. I couldn't see the point of sewing a set-in sleeve for this pattern and I would do it the same way next time.
Other changes for next time? I would change the bottom band, either to a single hem band or a coverstitched hem to match the sleeve hems. The neckline needs to be slightly larger and the collar adjusted accordingly. The back looks wide still. I had taken out 2cm at centre back and it needs at least that for me.
If anybody out there wants to give this one a try, do check the sleeve width. They are narrow.
Final verdict? I like the lines of this top and it is an everyday winter favourite already. I'll probably make it again in a more co-operative fabric, with adjustments. I love the big pocket, which holds my phone and glasses, but does make me feel like a large marsupial. With warm paws.
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