The Sewing Place

Making Gymnastic Leotards

b15erk

Making Gymnastic Leotards
« on: December 10, 2019, 11:48:25 AM »
Not quite ready to go on this, but over Christmas we will be with DD and family for a few days, and I thought it would be a good time to pin Lilya down for some serious measuring, so that I can make some practise leotards. The last one DD bought was £25, and as she also dances, it's becoming quite expensive.

I have a basic pattern, McCalls 7618, as this is the style Lilya prefers.

Is there any special technique I need to know when making these?  I have only ever made one swimsuit for myself, and a very basic one for Lilya, so have I bitten off more than I can chew?

Heeellp!  ;)

Jessie

Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ploshkin

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2019, 14:59:11 PM »
I've never made anything as stretchy / flexible as a leotard but I have made plenty from knits, as have you.  I would imagine that the only extra, in terms of technique, is making sure that seams and edges still have plenty of stretch after sewing.  I've never used it but this is presumably where woolly nylon comes in for the overlocker.
Life's too short for ironing.

b15erk

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2019, 15:16:01 PM »
Thanks for the support @Ploshkin .  I think it's the negative ease which is bothering me.  I don't want Lilya wearing a baggy leotard just because Nana made it!  :D ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ploshkin

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2019, 16:22:02 PM »
It's probably important to know what the percentage stretch of the fabric is, in both directions, as that should help determine the amount of negative ease you can safely use.
Life's too short for ironing.

Ellabella

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2019, 17:14:26 PM »
At least if it’s bit baggy you can take it in. If it’s too tight you’ll just have to get Theo into dance 0_0

Sewingforfun

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2019, 17:58:58 PM »
One more convert to the wonderful world of stretch! Yay!

As a starting point, about -10% negative ease in all directions is a good place to start with most lyrca, but most commercial leotard patterns will have some negative ease already built in so you might not need to worry about it.  I would measure the pattern itself, too, as I think some of the commercial ones come up big.

If you want to figure it yourself, multiply the body measurement by .9  - so 100 x .9 = 90

Re the other post about stones, I second GemTac. If you are getting glue rings with hotfix, you are probably leaving the stones in the tool too long.
Dancing too much and trying to remember sewing is for fun! Used to be CarolC.

Catllar

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2019, 18:10:36 PM »
If they are specific patterns for leotards them the negative stretch is usually calculated in. Just make sure you have you max stretch going round the body when you cut your fabric, keep the armholes short and the sleeve heads flat so she can move her arms easily. If you can get her to stand still long enough it's useful to have body girth measurement ( over shoulder, round under crotch and back up the front) This makes sure you have enough length to avoid it climbing up her bum. Jali do some good videos of how to make leotards, especially applying elastic to the leg holes so you get a flat front.  I never use woolly or stretch thread and I usually use a 3 thread overlock as it's got more stretch than the 4. I agree measure the patterns. Have a look at Jali, also Childhood Treasures have some cute stuff that I've fiddled with to make flamenco wear from kiddies - they have a one shouldered swimsuit pattern that works a treat.
 
You'll enjoy it. I wish I could make my GD's leotards but her club insist on club leos.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2019, 18:14:07 PM by Catllar »
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

Lollipop

Re: Making Gymnastic Leotards
« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2019, 19:09:13 PM »
@b15erk I like Jalie as you can mix and match their patterns to some extent. If you like the fit of one at the top but another at the bottom they are simple to make a frankenpattern. Many of their gymnastics patterns are cut quite high and I add some to the bum as my dancers like a bit more coverage. One of my favourites for dance dresses for littlies is the sweetheart leo from My Childhood Treasures.
Was Sewnanny