The Sewing Place

BurdaStylle 126#02-2011

b15erk

BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« on: May 21, 2022, 20:46:17 PM »
Just cut this pattern out, and straight away, there's a glaring problem (for me, you lot are far more savvy!)

On piece one, there is a curved front, and a cut out dart.  The pattern is telling me to add S/A's to the dart, which is OK, but then I read on, 'no allowance on the horizontal edges of the Centre Front (marked with scissors - but it isn't)'

But where does the horizontal edge start???  Does it make a step down by 4cms??

More research needed...sigh... :thinking:

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2022, 21:38:28 PM »
Can you take a pic of the piece, someone may be able to help?

sleepingwolf

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2022, 21:42:17 PM »
I haven't got this issue so I can't check the pattern piece but I have made a similar jacket.  I think the horizontal edges they are referring to are on the line from the seam with the side front piece to the base of the dart where the welt pocket is inserted. Have a look at this explanation and see if it looks like the same situation. 

How to sew a welt over a dart

Ohsewsimple

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2022, 21:45:35 PM »
'horizontal edges of the Centre Front'

Sorry I have no idea what that is supposed to mean.  Horizontal??

b15erk

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2022, 11:14:46 AM »
I'm taking a step back from this today, because while I've been thinking about it, there are a few things I need to address before I cut out.

First, the length.  It's only 63cms long, which is just a little longer than the first jacket I made.  I really want something a little longer, so I'll spend a little time lengthening it.

Then, I'll be washing the fabric.  I don't usually, but I have a feeling that this denim may shrink, so better safe etc.  A jacket is a lot of work, so I don't want it ending up too small.

@sleepingwolf , I think you are right, it's the bit that matches the facing after the  curve.  It's a very strange front piece, with darts cut out.  That will be challenging when I add length... :rolleyes:

So, off to put the washer on, then alterations... :thinking:

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Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2022, 11:25:21 AM »
Crikey, that looks fun, not!  Good luck  :)

b15erk

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2022, 13:35:33 PM »
Fabric washed and drying on the line, length adjustments complete.  However (there's always a however, isn't there), the arms are too long - again!  If I add 4cms the sleeves will be down to my knees! 

I think I may have short arms as I have this problem quite often.  Now, the problem.  Burda don't give lengthen/shorten lines, so, wondering if it's acceptable to just use the length as is, without adding the 4cm hem, without altering elsewhere?
I can't see where else the alteration would be made...

Btw, the denim fabric has washed beautifully, sometimes it's very stiff and makes creases, this is lovely, and blowing in the breeze - as long as the breeze doesn't turn into a howling gale!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2022, 16:39:40 PM »
@b15erk why are you thinking of adding length to the sleeves if you don’t need to? :thinking:

b15erk

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2022, 09:22:29 AM »
@Ohsewsimple , I'm always worried that the sleeve will end up too short... I guess it's a confidence thing. I've checked my sleeve length on various clothes and jackets though, and they don't vary much 171/2 to 181/2" , so I guess I'm safe.

The Burda patttern already measures 20" so I think I'm safe not adding hem allowance.  :thinking:

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2022, 15:39:37 PM »
Ah ok @b15erk.  I might have read your comment wrong! :rolleyes:
If you don’t add the hem allowance you might end up with sleeves that are a bit wider than intended depending on the shape of them.  Of course you could always taper them ! 

You can adjust sleeves where you want /need really.  I have short arms and tend to do alterations in two parts on any bought patterns.  I work out where the elbow is and do one alteration midway in the top half and the other midway in the lower half from elbow to wrist.   That way you get a neater line than taking a chunk off somewhere.  Taking length out or adding it on is done wherever you need it rather than where the pattern dictates.   :)

b15erk

Re: BurdaStylle 126#02-2011
« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2022, 10:19:54 AM »
Thanks for that @Ohsewsimple  :thumb:, I'll re-visit the sleeve piece before I cut it out.  I ended up doing a last minute bodge on the Fleur Blazer sleeves, because they were so wide.

No sewing today, I'm off to the hairdressser... :S

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.