Burda 6465 - Chanel Jacket/Little French Jacket

[elisep]

I've already mentioned this on my new diary, however I need some advice so I thought I'd put a post up in here, too.

I'm knee deep in Burda 6465 .
The instructions for the trim/braid confused me so I went online to see what other options I had for trimming it. That's when I came across this gorgeous Ted Baker version

So, I'd like to change my version to have a zip closure rather than buttons, and also zippered pockets (I'm not a big fan of patch pockets anyway).
My plan was to trim the front piece back to the centre front line (plus seam allowance obviously). Is it as simple as this? Anything I need to keep in mind? Do I need to cut the hem extension back as well (i'm not sure if that's the right term)



Also, placement of the zippered pockets, can I follow the top placement line of the patch pocket? Or should I move it down a little?

Also, if anyone has any good online sources for zippers (separating for the centre front and regular for the pockets) with nice zipper pulls, I'll be grateful!

[Manuela]

1.My plan was to trim the front piece back to the centre front line (plus seam allowance obviously). Is it as simple as this? Anything I need to keep in mind?
2. Do I need to cut the hem extension back as well (i'm not sure if that's the right term).
3. Also, placement of the zippered pockets, can I follow the top placement line of the patch pocket? Or should I move it down a little?

1. Yes, it is as simple as this, keep in mind you’ll have to do the same with the facing (if you do a facing).
2. That depends on how you’ll do the hem/facing part. There are many ways, so it really depends on your preference. If in doubt, look at a pattern with a centre front zipper and compare it with yours.
3. I’d personally fit it with the shoulder and side seams sewn and check what position is most comfortable/looks best.

[Missie]

I've got a Chanel jacket earmarked and am going to do the same and put a zip in.  I was going to do as you have suggested.

[Gernella]

Same here @Missie, I even got round the cutting the pattern out then stuffed it back and made something else.  I really could do with something that covers smart and casual at the same time.

[Manuela]

If you’re not afraid of an 100-hour project, which would create a Chanel style jacket as comfortable as a cardigan, there is always the traditional, haute couture way of doing it. Ann Rowley created a fantabulous picture tutorial when she made hers....

Vogue 8804 by Ann Rowley

You could easily use that for a jacket with front zip as well.
I love your lining @elisep 

[Kwaaked]

I also recommend the Iconic Tweed Jacket with Lorna Knight.  Was one of the best classes I have on bluprint when it was Craftsy...and it's free this week.

[Gernella]

If you’re not afraid of an 100-hour project, which would create a Chanel style jacket as comfortable as a cardigan, there is always the traditional, haute couture way of doing it. Ann Rowley created a fantabulous picture tutorial when she made hers....

Vogue 8804 by Ann Rowley

Can't help wondering, who got her gorgeous sewing machine?

[Sewingsue]

I love the monogram label. I assume she put that in all her garments.

[Surest1tch]

Love the jacket, the skirt that goes with it is rather nice too

[elisep]

Thanks Manuela for the advice, it's nice to have another set of eyes on your work sometimes! I know that traditionally Chanel jackets had lining that matched the outer fabric, but life's too short for boring lining!

I do love hand tailoring so would love to do a proper couture method jacket at some point, I just didn't feel like it for this one! Perhaps when I know when I'm secure in my job I'll celebrate with a piece of Linton tweed and a couture jacket!

I suspect that getting the right zipper might be a challenge at the moment without access to the stores but it's not like I don't have plenty of time for googling right now!

[Missie]

I do love hand tailoring so would love to do a proper couture method jacket at some point, I just didn't feel like it for this one! Perhaps when I know when I'm secure in my job I'll celebrate with a piece of Linton tweed and a couture jacket!

Hmm better to learn the techniques now so you have them off pat for your expensive fabric.

[elisep]

Well I've been full steam ahead on this and got as far as I can until my zippers arrive! As I had time up my sleeve I decided to do a pick stitch to understitch my facing/lining. It doesn't quite live up to my perfecting standards, but for a first attempt I'm willing to accept it 

Here's my lining all ready to go once my zippers arrive (It looks crinkly here but it's actually a sandwashed silk with a natural crinkle to it);

[Lachica]

Lovely work @elisep

[elisep]

I had to put this on hold for a while due to lack of zippers, but they arrived just in time for me to get it finished for the 6PAC contest. Now that I've posted it there, I thought I'd come back in here and add some more photos!



Here she is. I'm so happy with it! The zippers were worth the wait as I think they give it a very polished look!


Close up of the zipper shows the fabric well, as it's hard to photograph accurately.


Thought I'd share this pic as it also shows my new tags!


In case anyone's wondering how I did the trim on the hem. I made the trim myself from the fabric using an online tutorial, but I didn't have any black interfacing to stabilise the raw edge so I ended up using white. So, to attach the trim to the hem, I used black grosgrain ribbon to cover the raw edge of the trim and stitched it into the hem allowance. Then turned the hem so the trim was hanging out the bottom, and evened it up with a pair of scissors. If anyone wants more pictures let me know. I did the same for the sleeve hems.

[dolcevita]

Beautiful work, beautiful jacket.