The Sewing Place

My Wedding Dress

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #30 on: April 17, 2020, 22:35:21 PM »
I've only just seen your ring - I think that is the nicest ring I have ever, ever seen!!!

I think so too! But I am biased.  :D

Missie

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2020, 18:18:16 PM »
Thanks @Missie for the suggestions - I definitely need all the help I can get!
I am aiming for a perfect fit at the top edge (so as to avoid squashy armpit fat) and then a tiny amount of negative ease everywhere else. The actual bodice which goes over it will have minimal positive ease. Does that sound right?

I was going to have the corselette do up with hooks and eyes, slightly offset from the centre back, and then the dress zip up separately over that. Perhaps a laced panel would be better than hooks and eyes though, and it might be easier to achieve the perfect amount of negative ease.

You don't want negative ease, just no ease, unless you do the hook and eye panel on a stretch mesh base (I've forgotten the name of the fabric, but it is used in dancewear and bras).  The rest of the boned layer needs to be on a firm fabric (eg fabric) with which you will not get negative ease.  And yes a hook and eye panel will work just as well as the laced panel.

To avoid "armpit fat", you need to ensure that the cup area is big enough as this "fat" is usually displaced breast tissue.  You just need to pull it (swoop and scoop) it into the cup area.

Tamnymore

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #32 on: April 18, 2020, 19:57:38 PM »
Congratulations @charlotte. Lovely news. Very romantic!
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #33 on: April 22, 2020, 14:34:39 PM »
I finished my toile!





I am very happy with the overall shape. I have a few minor fit adjustments to make to the bodice, but I am pretty happy with it generally. I am redesigning the skirt so it will have five box pleats instead of six. There will be one at the centre front, and the side seams (and pockets, obviously!) can be tucked away under pleats.

I also have a crazy idea that I can cut the skirt from one piece of fabric on the crossgrain, with giant darts instead of side seams. This way there will only be one seam I have to deal with in the lace border, at the centre back.

Efemera

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #34 on: April 22, 2020, 20:43:15 PM »
Looking good... you’re super speedy!

Missie

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #35 on: April 23, 2020, 09:06:29 AM »
That looks lovely. Good call re the box pleats!

SkoutSews

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2020, 09:49:44 AM »
That dress is a lovely shape. Looking forward to hearing about progress!

Lachica

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2020, 23:31:47 PM »
Lovely shaped dress. I like the pleats, and pockets are practical. If the lace design allows, cutting the skirt with giant darts instead of side seams will keep the lace motifs intact at the hem & sounds very sensible to me. The seam could then be at one side, hidden in the pleat. Everyone will see the back of the dress!
Mary
2020 stash: not gonna count, not gonna feel guilty.

Sheilago

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2020, 23:46:31 PM »
Congratulations on your engagement , a beautiful toile , so quickly made and a gorgeous ring ( love emeralds) . My daughter got married last year and we all had such a wonderful time with the preparations. I feel so sorry for all those who’ve had to cancel things this year. You’re very sensible to get on with what you can do and wait until things get better before you make plans for the date and place. You have so much to look forward to and once we are though this, your friends and family will be all the more delighted to help you celebrate on the big day.

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #39 on: April 24, 2020, 11:30:04 AM »
Lovely shaped dress. I like the pleats, and pockets are practical. If the lace design allows, cutting the skirt with giant darts instead of side seams will keep the lace motifs intact at the hem & sounds very sensible to me. The seam could then be at one side, hidden in the pleat. Everyone will see the back of the dress!

Yes, I thought about having the seam at the side, but I do need the zip down the back, so I think I do have to have it there. I am hoping that I will be able to disguise it with a 'couture lace seam'. I have instructions from both Alison Smith and Susan Khalje, where you cut around the motifs and overlap them, which creates an almost invisible join.

I am considering a detachable tulle train so that would cover up the back a bit whilst it is attached as well.

Missie

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #40 on: April 24, 2020, 11:51:42 AM »
Hi Charlotte,

I was just having another look at your toile, I can't see the side seams, but my suggestion re the box pleats would be to make them more generous/deeper at the waist.  I was just thinking that as the pleats are currently, the pockets might not be so well hidden in the side seams but I also appreciate that changing 6 pleats to 5 may change the look of the  pleats anyway.

« Last Edit: April 24, 2020, 12:04:57 PM by Missie »

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #41 on: April 25, 2020, 16:00:53 PM »
Hi Charlotte,

I was just having another look at your toile, I can't see the side seams, but my suggestion re the box pleats would be to make them more generous/deeper at the waist.  I was just thinking that as the pleats are currently, the pockets might not be so well hidden in the side seams but I also appreciate that changing 6 pleats to 5 may change the look of the  pleats anyway.

I’m on it! By having 5 pleats, the side seams should end up hidden in the folds. Plus I will be able to centre the motifs on the lace down the front pleat.

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #42 on: May 13, 2020, 15:41:08 PM »
My fabric arrived!!
This is the lace:



I also have separate matching motifs and trim to piece for the bodice. It's photographed over some pink cut and sew foam, which is not massively dissimilar from underlay - 'rosewater' silk habotai with a 'cyclamen' deep pink cotton lawn underlining.



I tried out piecing the motifs on my toile as well.



I am almost there with the fit - I just need a tiny bit more ease on the waistband to fix the drag-lines caused by my uneven hips. Looking at the above picture I may need to look at the neckline fit again, but it might just be creases in the fabric!

I'm pausing here for now, and using my pattern to make a knee-length cotton lawn dress with a silk organza yoke as a 'full practice' version, which I may wear to my brother's wedding ceremony in May 2021... If we are allowed out by then...

Acorn

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #43 on: May 13, 2020, 16:19:45 PM »
 :loveit:  They are gorgeous!
I might look as though I'm talking to you, but inside my head I'm sewing.

SkoutSews

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #44 on: May 13, 2020, 16:52:58 PM »
That is so pretty! I love the lace against the pale pink silk.