The Sewing Place

My Wedding Dress

Greybird

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #60 on: July 19, 2020, 09:53:03 AM »
At OH's godson's wedding reception, a sitdown meal was being served when a waiter spilt a jugful of gravy into the bride's lap.

wrenkins

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #61 on: July 19, 2020, 09:59:50 AM »
Our soup went down the best man's back!  0_0
Harbouring resentment is like swallowing poison and waiting for the other person to die!

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #62 on: July 20, 2020, 10:37:20 AM »
Assuming I get the length right, the hem will be a couple of cm off the floor, so hopefully less risk of being stood on! I am still undecided about a train, but if I do have it, it will be removable and only worn for the ceremony. I am also very clumsy and likely to spill things down myself without anyone's help. All I can hope is that I get some good pictures before that happens!  :D

Syrinx

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #63 on: July 20, 2020, 10:53:18 AM »
In case you're still having corselette problems, I'd recommend Sew Curvy - she's amazingly helpful with fabric and boning suggestions for all sorts. Was very happy to chat with me for a while about a dress that is now to be postponed for next year sadly (1940s pattern) as there are so many boning options depending on what you require. Also tape is amazing for boning channels, especially when testing fit. I do agree that lawn alone won't be strong enough and will be liable to warp and tear.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #64 on: July 20, 2020, 10:59:53 AM »
Like wrenkins, I'm not entirely sure what's going on either, but find it fascinating!

Is the corselette a separate item, or is going to be sewn into the dress?  I have no idea how these things work  :S

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #65 on: July 20, 2020, 12:21:55 PM »
@Bodgeitandscarper, the corselette will be sewn to the bodice along the top edge at the front, but they will remain separate at the back, as the corselette is a lot tighter than the bodice, and (along with the waist stay) essentially holds the whole dress up. This is a method often seen is vintage Dior dresses, like the one below.



I'm not having the net attached to the corselette though, I'm keeping that separate.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #66 on: July 20, 2020, 13:11:44 PM »
Thank you for the explanation, I like knowing how things are constructed - I'd never have the patience to make anything like that.
Look forward to seeing more  0_0

Missie

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #67 on: July 20, 2020, 13:25:49 PM »
@Bodgeitandscarper, the corselette will be sewn to the bodice along the top edge at the front, but they will remain separate at the back, as the corselette is a lot tighter than the bodice, and (along with the waist stay) essentially holds the whole dress up. This is a method often seen is vintage Dior dresses, like the one below.

@charlotte the only thing I would say/ask you to consider is that the dress you have shown has straps, which which will take some of the weight of the dress whilst yours is strapless, which will require more engineering to hold it up.
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #68 on: July 20, 2020, 14:30:28 PM »
Thanks @Missie - yes you are right I will need more structure - I have already added an extra layer with additional boning to the bodice. The bodice overlay will be attached at the waistband and that will come over the shoulders but I do not want it to hold any weight whatsoever, as it will be made from a very delicate silk tulle. (I once made a dress with a silk organza yoke and no foundation support whatsoever. Guess how that ended!)

I am pretty confident my foundations will be structured enough to hold everything up, but as a worst case scenario I could always add straps to be camouflaged by lace appliques.

Syrinx

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #69 on: July 20, 2020, 15:00:17 PM »
What are you using as boning?
I'd always suggest a pretty corsetry coutil but then I'm a sucker for some of those fabrics. I have a ridiculously gorgeous riding corset - far too pretty a coutil but I adore it  :loveit:

There are ways ou can use a more structured fabric and then sandwich it with a fashion fabric over the top so it still has the pretty look you like - all the strain taken by the structural fabric and the fashion fabric is all safe

charlotte

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #70 on: July 20, 2020, 15:11:17 PM »
The boning is spiral steel, held in calico channels.

The corselette is two layers of cotton lawn and a layer of firmer cotton (not quite canvas but not too lightweight). It also has foam cups and underwires, and the waist is reinforced with petersham ribbon.

The bodice is one layer of silk habotai, one layer of cotton lawn and then an additional foundation layer (with boning) of calico at the front and more lawn at the back.

Efemera

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #71 on: July 20, 2020, 15:16:36 PM »
Gosh... the whole thing is a feat of engineering!

Syrinx

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #72 on: July 20, 2020, 16:06:42 PM »
Ah OK, you'll want some flat steel boning in there too, spiral has a way of bending sideways if there isn't any flat steels at crucial points.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #73 on: July 20, 2020, 16:46:19 PM »
I'm losing track here, how many layers of fabric are there going to be in all?  :S :o

Missie

Re: My Wedding Dress
« Reply #74 on: July 20, 2020, 17:26:12 PM »
The bodice overlay will be attached at the waistband and that will come over the shoulders

Apologies, I thought is was going to be strapless.

Re the boning, just make sure that the end caps are on securely for the spiral boning and I would even consider covering them in tape (plumbers tape) so they don't rip through the fabrics.  I would also use flat steels where there is no need for any movement in the steel.
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!