To interface or not to interface - Butterick 6339

[badgermat]

I'm doing a waistcoat in linen and raw silk from the Butterick 6339 pattern.

The pattern says to interface the whole of the two front pieces, and to do that before sewing in the two darts. This is fusible interfacing, by the way, not traditional canvas.

This seems really weird. First off it makes the whole thing feel more like flimsy cardboard than linen, second I don't see how I'm going to be able to get the darts flat (or even accurate) with the interfacing there.

Does this sound right, and will it matter if I just pull off the interfacing and cut a couple of strips to give structure to the front edges of each side for the buttons and button holes?

bm

[toileandtrouble]

It is possible to cut out the centre of the dart in the interfacing, leaving just enough to go over the stitching line. You have to be accurate though., mark carefully
Alternatively, sew in a layer of light weight material instead of using iron- on.  Make the darts in the two layers separately and press them to different sides to reduce bulk.

[Bodgeitandscarper]

I'd say if you don't like the feel of it, don't do it.

But then, you have seen my username haven't you? 

[Missie]

I wouldn't use iron-on interfacing as it has a tendency to bubble and will ruin the look of your waistcoat, particularly as you will not be able, IMO, to use enough heat to get it to stick to the silk.  Sew-in is much better, tack it in place in the seam allowance and just over the stitch line for the darts.  Then, when you have sewn the darts, trim the interfacing back as close to the stitching as you can. 

You can also get different thicknesses of interfacing so try various ones and see which you like the feel of.  Having the interfacing will make the front of the waistcoat hang much better, particularly in view of the fabrics you are using and also will support the weight of buttons and also give a smoother finish to and strengthen the buttonholes.

[Surest1tch]

I wouldn't use iron on interfacing, if you can get canvas it'll give you a much better finish but if you really feel you want to use the iron on do the dart first, open it up the place the iron on in situ and cut it to fit round the dart not over it.

[BrendaP]

Calling @Iminei who was the queen of waitcoats in the dim and distant past before the darkside engulfed her.

[Iminei]

 You called ?????

[sewmuchmore]

Personally I would use a light weight iron on cotton interfacing especially with linen as it will help with the structure of the waistcoat and it will prevent the linen from becoming distorted. Sew the dart first then fuse around it. this is what I use. Or rather than interline, why not underline with some light weight cotton?

[badgermat]

Thanks all.

Sounds like a light cotton interlining is the way to go, with the interfacing just where the buttons and buttonholes are. That certainly seems more convincing that the pattern's approach.

bm

[Iminei]

When I made my waistcoats I only used to interface the middle front sides, where the buttons and buttonholes go, and the collar area if a collar was required.

I used a lot of light weight furnishing fabrics so there was enough body to the material ...
I did make some silk dupion waistcoats and interfaced all the fabric with the lightest weight fusible interfacing