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Topics - elisep

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1
A bit of a 'do' / Mermaid gown
« on: April 11, 2022, 13:42:33 PM »
So you may have seen my post over in the Costume section, but I'm posting here for a little more visibility on some questions I have.
I'm making a version of the below dress;



I'm using a pattern for a mermaid gown that I bought off etsy.

My question pertains to the skirt. It's a full circle with a slight train. The pattern suggests you need 16 layers to get the correct shape. 16! But in her sew-a-long on youtube she uses "8 layers of tulle, 2 layers of fibreglass mesh (mosquito netting) in lieu of proper crinoline, a layer of lining and a layer of lace as the top fabric". The video wasn't clear on which order they should be put together, either.
I'm curious for those who have sewn something similar, looking at the red dress, how many layers would you use, and in what order?

I bought some stiff nylon tulle/net the other day which is quite stiff and the store also had "bridal tulle" which was very soft polyester tulle. It's all on sale there right now so I'm trying to work out how much of each to buy. I'm assuming my top layer (the red tafetta) will crush the soft tulle down somewhat should I have 2 layers of the stiff net with ? layers of soft tulle between them?

I'd like something dramatic but still able to move and dance in. I may need to omit the train?

Appreciate any thoughts!

2
The Show Must Go On / Cruella
« on: February 25, 2022, 11:03:35 AM »
Has anyone seen the recent Cruella film, with Emma Stone as Cruella de Vil?
I'm planning a Cruella costume, which will hopefully be a fairly faithful representation of this red dress;



In addition, and even though she doesn't wear it in the same scene, Cruella would not be complete without her "dalmatian" coat;



The event I need this for is 30th April, so lots of time, especially since I'm making a start this weekend! My spanner in the works is that I am currently on a weight loss journey (6kg down!  :dance: ) and expect to continue losing weight for the next 8 weeks! So I am starting with the dalmatian coat as it's less fitted, or rather, easier to take it in at the last minute, or just buckle it so that it overlaps in the center rather than just meeting in front.

Mood Fabrics has an extremely accurate copy of the pattern on their blog for free here. Emma's coat appears to be made out of leather and some kind of hide? which must have been so heavy! The pattern calls for a lot of fabric - 8-9 yards white, 4-5 yards black, plus full lining, so I'm definitely not using leather! I've already got a big roll of white cotton drill (came from my grandmother's stash, who knows why I thought I should add it to mine!). I've ordered black fabric paint to paint splodges on by hand. I found 5 metres of black cotton sateen at $5/metre and black poly satin for $1/metre for the lining.

My plan for the spectacular red dress is as follows. McCalls 6893, fitted to the knee as an under-dress.  Then draping red silk over the top to create the mermaid shape. I found a photo of the costume studio and it looks like this is the technique they used. Looking again at the movie dress i'll need to attach tulle at the bottom to create more volume.
The movie dress looks to be made from taffetta or dupion... I've ordered 10 metres of taffeta off ebay at a really good price (so cheap I'm sceptical it's pure silk), hoping 10 metres will be enough to drape what I need!
My plan is to use couture techniques where I can (and so long as I have time!), internal corselette etc. or at the very least boned etc.

I've been waiting for this party for 2 years (my colleague and I organise it, and had to postpone it for the last two years for obvious reasons) so I'm going ALL out on this one!

3
Has anybody made the Dogs in Sweaters pattern?
I've got another quilt to make for a friend with a baby due end of Feb. I'm undecided on whether to go for a geometric style (she loved the recent one I made for my other friend and has told me so repeatedly  0_0)  or the above pattern - she also loves Daschunds!

Has anyone made this one before? How difficult is it for a beginner-intermediate quilter? Appears to be standard quilt piecing, not sure whether that is easier or harder than FPP? In the end I didn't love the FPP with the other quilt, I liked that it was foolproof to follow, made getting it together easy when I was low on brainpower (covid lockdown  :'( ) however it was virtually impossible to unpick things if I made a mistake.

Thoughts?

4
Don't tell anyone!  0_0

I've decided to make a quilt for a friend who's having a baby boy. I've purchased this pattern which I'll do in a blue, green and grey colourway.

I didn't realise when I bought it that it's a paper pieced quilt. I've never done one of these before (and have only made 2 quilts before, total) I've done some googling, but would love all of your opinions, as to whether it is worth the expense of buying special foundation paper? I did read a website which said regular printer paper is fine, but I'd really love your opinions on, whether for a beginner quilter, I am better off buying the foundation paper?

Also, The quilts I made in the past I just quilted lines following the blocks on the front. I'd like to try some sort of pattern, but I don't want to try free motion quilting. I've seen you can get quilting templates - would anyone recommend doing this? And any ideas what sort of pattern would suit this type of quilt (and for a baby boy?)

Thanks in advance!

5
Patterns Discussion / Sewing for children/babies
« on: May 15, 2020, 03:58:08 AM »
Not sure if this belongs here or patterns discussion, feel free to move if I'm in the wrong place!

A friend of mine has just announced her pregnancy, she's due in October. Normally for friends I gift a handmade quilt, or my mum's specialty of bibs and muslin wraps.
I'm not really feeling in the mood to make a quilt at the moment, though I might change my mind between now and then! So I'm thinking it might be nice to have a go at something I've never done before, which is children's clothing.
She hasn't announced the gender of the baby yet, I am fairly sure she plans to. If she doesn't, I may just have to go with a gender-neutral quilt.

Well, as a childless person who is not really into babies, I'm not quite sure whether clothing is something I can gift at a baby shower (or birth if she doesn't have a shower). What I was thinking of what a couple of little dresses or even dress/bloomer sets if it's a girl, perhaps some overalls for a boy?
I think most babies these days are put in onesies when they are newborn, but not really sure what mums like to put babies in once they're a little older?
Would I be better off waiting till baby's first birthday and gifting clothing at that stage?
I'd also love to make a little coat for the baby (only because I think they're flipping adorable), it would be 9 months old by the time winter rolled around, is that an appropriate age for a coat?

As you can see, I've no idea  :[

Also, feel free to suggest any recommendations for cute baby/children's patterns.

6
Fun with Fabric / What to match with this?
« on: April 24, 2020, 02:46:19 AM »
Years ago I came across this bargain fabric. A lightweight silk satin on clearance for $2 a metre  0_0 I bought 10 metres! It's not really a colour I would wear but I thought it would do for making toiles if nothing else. Well I've never cut into it, and it's occurred to me that it would make a lovely pyjama set.
I'm thinking a camisole, long pants, shorts in a tap pant/french knicker style, and robe. And maybe put some aside to make a matching bra when I finally get around to giving that a try.

I'd love to buy some lace to go with it but as I'm not able to trawl the shops to find a good colour match, I'm thinking it'll be too hard to match if I buy online. So I'm thinking a coordinating colour instead of matching.



What is everyone's suggestions on a coordinating colour? The only thing I can think of is grey, but not sure it will be right. Or perhaps navy?

My other option is to dye the fabric a different colour, maybe teal. I recently dyed my first piece of silk fabric and was surprised how easy it was. Not sure whether I would be able to get the shade right though, dyeing over green.

7
In the wardrobe / Burda 6465 - Chanel Jacket/Little French Jacket
« on: March 28, 2020, 10:10:15 AM »


I've already mentioned this on my new diary, however I need some advice so I thought I'd put a post up in here, too.

I'm knee deep in Burda 6465 .
The instructions for the trim/braid confused me so I went online to see what other options I had for trimming it. That's when I came across this gorgeous Ted Baker version

So, I'd like to change my version to have a zip closure rather than buttons, and also zippered pockets (I'm not a big fan of patch pockets anyway).
My plan was to trim the front piece back to the centre front line (plus seam allowance obviously). Is it as simple as this? Anything I need to keep in mind? Do I need to cut the hem extension back as well (i'm not sure if that's the right term)



Also, placement of the zippered pockets, can I follow the top placement line of the patch pocket? Or should I move it down a little?

Also, if anyone has any good online sources for zippers (separating for the centre front and regular for the pockets) with nice zipper pulls, I'll be grateful!

8
The Show Must Go On / Queen Ravenna
« on: June 14, 2019, 10:45:39 AM »
So each year in August the company that I work for puts on a gala dinner. The theme alternates between a black-tie-esque theme and a proper costume theme. Last year was James Bond, so this year, Comic-Con!  :D
Of course this makes me super happy as I love making costumes!
It's taken me about 3 months to make a decision, because I really just wanted to make everything! But I've finally decided upon Queen Ravenna - from Snow White and the Huntsman (also Huntsman: Winter's War).

This is my inspiration photo;

Though I am not doing a direct copy. I'd like mine to be black and gold (not silver).
I'm using Simplicity 1045 as my base to work from, with a few alterations.
Charlize's dress appears to me to be made from suede which will be much too heavy to wear for an evening of dancing! So I'm going for a black velvet and I'm going to have a play around with the devore technique to see if I can get it to work. And then use gold fabric paint to make some sort embellishment. I like the idea of gold stamped feathers all over the dress - she is a "raven" after all. If I can find an appropriate stamp that is.

I've also decided to make a bodysuit to wear underneath. Pattern for this is Simplicity 8670. I'm going to make it in skin colour powermesh covered in black lace - to get the idea of the black undersleeves, with a dual function of holding in all my lumpy bits!  :P

So the first step is to create the bodysuit! I've no idea how much negative ease will give me a reduction/smoothing out of my figure in the power mesh... and google is not really helping. The pattern appears to have a 1 inch negative ease at the bust for a C cup. So I think I'll start by cutting 1 size down, and do fitting adjustments on the power mesh as I go. I'm planning for a double layer of the mesh (at the very least, in the side front/back pieces) for extra sucking-in power! Hoping I won't have any issues using a stretch lace over the power mesh, too. 

9
Fun with Fabric / Performance Jersey?
« on: February 04, 2019, 11:23:26 AM »
I'd like to make myself a couple of long sleeve base layer tops and polo tops for horse riding (can't justify $80 on a "brand" one!!)
Here's what I'm trying to replicate
I've found Simplicity 8704.

Now I need to find the appropriate fabric. I'm not that familiar with knits so would appreciate some help! I'd love the fabric to be moisture wicking, SPF if possible, and not too shiny! Something with a bit of Merino would be amazing for the depths of winter but not absolutely necessary. Probably going to have to order online as I've never seen the kind of fabric I need in stores.

Are these the kinds of fabric I'm looking for?
https://www.moodfabrics.com/red-antibacterial-and-wicking-polyester-jersey-320550
https://www.moodfabrics.com/calm-pacific-striated-wicking-and-anti-microbial-performance-jersey-316721
https://www.moodfabrics.com/midnight-black-max-dri-performance-jersey-310883
https://www.activefabrics.co.uk/functional-fabrics-tricot/coolmax/melanie-coolmax-melange.html
https://www.activefabrics.co.uk/functional-fabrics-tricot/coolmax/marie-coolmax-anthracite.html
I've ordered a few samples from activefabrics.co.uk to get me started!

10
Fun with Fabric / Has anyone used Saroj fabrics before?
« on: November 01, 2018, 06:12:28 AM »
Just came across this website on my travels online looking for reasonably priced silk linings.

https://www.sarojfabrics.com/Dye-40-gms-Pure-Habotai-Silk-Fabric

The prices seem to be good to be true, and they'll dye as little as 1 metre for you. They've got Dupion, Velvet, Crepe, Georgette, and other non silk fabrics you can get dyed. Obviously they are catering for the indian market mostly as they have beautiful sari fabrics.
I'd like to order a length to see what the quality is like, but shipping is pricey to Australia. It would work out cheaper than buying locally if I bought several pieces, but I'm wary of doing so unless I know what the quality is like!

11
Fun with Fabric / Latest haul!
« on: September 13, 2018, 11:18:10 AM »
Thought I'd share a few pieces I've bought lately!


Left to right -
A beautiful piece of silk crepe de chine with a feather pattern. This was an absolute find for $20/m - I went back the other day to see if I could get more to use as a lining, sadly it's all sold out. I was planning on making a simple summer dress for work but I've been invited to a wedding in late October so may use it for that instead. Perhaps I can find a style that will dress up for a wedding but down for work!

Cream silk satin, planning to make this up into Burda 6632 with long sleeves.

Dusky blue silk satin for the stash. I bought it to replace a lining in a coat but I'm not sure on the colour for the coat I had in mind. I'll probably keep it in the stash till next winter and use it if I don't find a better option for the coat.

Dark brown sandwashed silk crepe de chine. To make up into a dress for work. Probably a simple shift style with a self-belt.


Left to right
Linen look rayon. Thought this might make a nice summer work dress but now I'm worried I'm going to look like a curtain! Perhaps something like Vogue 9021

3 x Cotton shirting remnants, cream self stripe (hard to tell from the photo). Only just over a metre so it'll probably become a sleeveless shirt.
A lovely teal stripe remnant, ditto to the above.
Blue & White stripe remnant, hoping there'll be enough to make a shirt for horse riding competitions (long sleeve with a "ratcatcher" collar) as it's perfect for my club colours.

I'm hoping for plenty of sewing time over the weekend as the weather is meant to be rubbish!

12
A bit of a 'do' / A purple velvet ball gown, or, what was I thinking?
« on: July 09, 2018, 15:07:42 PM »
Coming up in August I have my once-yearly work function. Each year has a theme and this year it's "Bond" AKA just black tie.
As usual my decision on what to wear has changed several times (I know better than to start too early as I'll change my mind!) and I've settled on a full skirted, silk velvet gown in "wine purple".

My original plan was to use McCalls 7685 for the bodice and draft my own skirt. But now, I'm starting to get concerned that the pattern is less than ideal for velvet.

I'm liking Vogue 1474 more and more, however I would prefer a deeper V neck and I just don't think there's any way I can bone that bodice.
I'd also be drafting my own skirt rather than the skirt on the bias and I don't know how I could get that to work at the centre back seam.

Upon further searching, I've found this pattern which appears to be quite close to what I want, save that the back is closed. That's easily altered though. I'm a bit hesitant to use a vintage reproduction pattern though. Of the three I think this would be the simplest to make though, and I wouldn't have to draft my own skirt pattern.

Any advice or other pattern recommendations welcome!

13
Fun with Fabric / Peachy orange soft suiting?
« on: June 15, 2018, 11:15:31 AM »
I have a soft drapey RTW blazer that I absolutely adore, but it's seen so much wear now that the only suitable place for it is the bin. The cuffs are stained and I've tried everything to get them clean but I just have to accept defeat.
I normally don't have an issue getting rid of clothes beyond their useful life, but the issue with this jacket is, it really coodinates with a lot of clothes in my wardrobe that I wear to work. And since taking it out of circulation I am having trouble putting together enough outfits!

So, I'm wondering whether I can find something close enough in colour and make a replacement. It's a peachy orange colour, but I have no idea how to describe the fabric. It's a drapey fabric, medium weight - almost like a crepe but it's smooth and slightly shiny - not enough to be a satin though.
I'll order from anywhere as long as I can order a sample first to check the colour. Has anyone seen anything like this in their travels on the internet?

Edited to add - I don't mind on the finish of the fabric so much, the colour is the most important thing... but I would prefer it to be soft and drapey!

14
I've tried numerous times to draft my own sloper. I've bought the Suzy Furrer course on Craftsy (didn't really like her method), have the Helen Armstrong textbook (I have succeeded in making a sloper from this but it was some time ago and I've gained weight since then). I'd love to go and do a course as then I'll be forced to complete something, but I just don't have the funds at the moment.
My main issue is it takes so long, when really what I want to be doing is getting on and making a garment. Try as I might I've not been able to convince myself it's worth all the fuss.

But I really want to start working on my own designs, and also need to pad my dressform out to my current shape. I'll be happy if I can take a sloper/block and create my own designs from it as the creative side in me will enjoy that process.

A few weeks ago Butterick patterns were on sale and on a whim I picked up the Fitting Shell pattern. Will this suit my needs? If I make it up and fit it to my shape, then transfer the pattern onto card? Will the Shell have wearing ease built in? If it does, is it possible to remove the wearing ease (once fitted) to turn it into a block for my dressform?

Or do I really, really just have to suck it up and commit to drafting my own sloper?  ><

Edited to add - I've just remembered I've got the Pattern Maker free download which will give me a basic sloper. Perhaps this is a better way to go than the fitting shell?

15
Patterns Discussion / Marfy patterns?
« on: July 01, 2017, 13:56:39 PM »
I've done a bit of a google and can't find much really, on the Marfy patterns. I really would love to make this;
http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-2745.html

But as they are a single size, I am a bit worried about what to expect. Normally I chose my size based on the finished garment measurements as I find most of the "big 4" companies use ridiculous amounts of ease. Has anyone used Marfy before and is the amount of ease ok?
I'm aware that they don't include seam allowances or instructions, that won't bother me.

Thanks in advance!

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