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Messages - Sonatine

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106
In the wardrobe / Winter coat
« on: October 24, 2018, 14:10:57 PM »
I didn't want to put this in my diary thread as I think I'm going to be asking a lot of questions along the way! This is very new territory for me.

I'm going to attempt making a winter coat. So far for patterns:
I love this one but it's too big and I don't have any experience grading patterns down. It's exactly what I'm looking for though!
I also like this one and it's only two inches too big on the bust, which should be small enough for me to be able to take it in or it might even fit over thick layers.
Then there's also M7478 which might be easier to sew / fit as it's a modernised reissue, I still like it but it's not as striking as the other two in my opinion. I like the line drawings a lot more than the photos though so it could just be modern models not having the exaggerated tiny waists of the 1950s drawings on the other two patterns.

I would really appreciate any thoughts on pattern choice or if anyone knows of any other similar patterns. I also have a slight problem finding fabric as wool or high % wool mix will probably get eaten by moths so I need something largely synthetic, so I'm trawling the web now.
Excited to get started on this!

107
@renita I'm completely in awe, what a wonderful collection! The fit on the jeans is brilliant and I love the darts as a design feature on the linen dress.

108
In the wardrobe / Re: Inspired by....
« on: October 21, 2018, 10:11:08 AM »
That's really striking! I particularly love the lace you've used, it looks beautiful against the denim.

109
I won't have any events to wear a festive dress to but I'd love the excuse to make one!

110
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 22, 2018, 20:26:12 PM »
I made the second skirt today, it's self drafted and it went together really easily! It still needs hemming and hook and eyes at the waistband but I was running out of time take photos. I did cheat on this one and put a zip in purely to save time but it's hidden by the pleats.
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And I got a quick posed photo of both of us together, the shirts and accessories are based off the costumes from the musical.
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111
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 18, 2018, 12:43:45 PM »
I've been mulling it over and decided to take the crin out of the hem, it pains me to rip out so much hand sewing but I'm not happy with how it sits! I'll attempt a facing, I've read some instructions from 1895 on faced hems since DementedFairy's advice.

My girlfriend has deciced that she wants a similar style skirt, so I've bought fabric for that today (I'm at my uni accommodation and my own skirt is back at my parents' house so I can't work on that until the weekend) and I've drafted a pattern for a 5 gored skirt with a flat front and pleats in the back. I prefer working from my own designs and I think I've got enough of a feel for the period to attempt one of my own now. The fabric was cheap so not a disaster if it goes badly, and there will be something salvageable no matter what because the pattern pieces are so large. I'm not hugely worried about historical acccuracy for this one, as long as it has the right overall 'look'.

Also planning to make a corset now, I'm waiting to start on it until I see what this term's workload is like though.

112
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 11, 2018, 12:53:06 PM »
Still no blouse so I've faked the style the best I can with a normal shirt to try to get a good picture of the skirt.

I'm still not happy with the hem but after hanging and pressing it it does look a bit better. I think something went wonky when I was sewing the side seams, there's just something off about them now the hem is stiffened.

Front:
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Back:
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113
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 10, 2018, 20:27:39 PM »
Slightly less positive after working on it today, the blouse I ordered still hasn't arrievd so I finished the skirt.
I hemmed it with horsehair braid as this is what several patterns / websites suggested and it looks awful. The hem is uneven (back longer than front) and it hangs oddly so I'm going to try giving the whole thing a good iron tomorrow and I'll see how it looks then. The petticoat doesn't help matters as it's got too much bulk at the waist but nowhere near enough fullness at the bottom, so it makes a bulge directly under the waistband but doesn't help the base of the skirt. I think I need to make a new one tomorrow.

114
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 10, 2018, 09:07:51 AM »
Good start!  I'd replace the poppers with a flat hook and bar for strength, and obviously, try to make a fuller petticoat or three asap if you plan to make other outfits.  And a corset- nothing will be quite the way you imagine without one!
For simple Edwardian undies, ie combinations/petticoat and corset, I recommend 'Wearing History' who does simple PDF downloads.
I have made her chemise/combinations and they are very simple [mine are from old sheets]
I have not made an Edwardian corset but still use my late Victorian one for Edwardian styles, it's OK but I need another!
The corset does the job of holding all that skirt weight without it being uncomfortable, so get one as soon as you can

I love the swooosh of edwardian skirts....

This is very helpful thank you so much! I'm wary of corsets but I know I'll have to get over it at some point if I want to carry on with making and wearing earlier styles, I didn't realise that they supported the skirt as well as being for shaping.
I have to admit to doing a lot of twirling and swooshing when I tried the skirt on, I love the way it moves when I walk.

And BrendaP that's a wonderful photo - thank you for sharing it and the history that goes with it. I think I'll have to make a blouse from scratch now to get sleeves like those. I have a 1911 Singer, I've never used it but maybe it would be fun to make something from the same period the machine being used for it is from, if it still works properly.

115
The Show Must Go On / Re: Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 09, 2018, 21:15:41 PM »
Thanks Yellowfeather!
I love historical fashion, I've made quite a few 50s style things (much easier to get away with wearing day to day than this outift) and a regency dress which was for a literary themed fancy dress party. I want to get more practise making earlier things, so after falling in love with the costumes of Sylvia I thought it would be a good place to start. I'm hoping that the research I do for each outfit will mean that the next one is more accurate than the last.

116
The Show Must Go On / Edwardian...ish?
« on: September 09, 2018, 19:56:25 PM »
I've been working on a new costume this week, based off the costumes from a new musical called Sylvia which is based on the life of Sylvia Pankhurst and her role in the suffragette movement. I saw the first half of the show on Monday (unfortunately it was cancelled after the interval due to a cast member being taken ill) and was immediately taken with the costumes. I loved the shape and simplicity of them and how they moved, but also seeing the women being so strong while wearing such feminine outfits.

The pattern I used for my skirt (here) is probably slightly too early, the description calls it Edwardian but also says 1890s and the back does seem quite full for an Edwardian skirt, but I loved the shape of it. I'm really proud of how it has turned out as there were a lot of things I found difficult while making it. I'm not used to working with such vast quantities of fabric or such large pattern pieces! I didn't follow the instructions for the waistband as the satin I chose for contrast was far too thick and didn't hold a crease at all, so I had to topstitch it to give it some degree of sharpness. The back is closed with 7 hook and eyes (the eyes are sewn into the placket seam - a new technique for me) and then a further two hooks and eyes and a pair of poppers at the waistband. It still pulls from the weight of the fabric so I might need to reinforce it somehow. I still have the hem left to do, and maybe adding some decoration with velvet ribbon.

The petticoat is made from an old duvet cover. I should have used multiple gores instead of one gathered panel at the top as there is far too much fabric at the waist and the shape isn't quite right as a result. However, I was working without a pattern or instructions and it still does the job. I've tried pushing the excess gathered fabric to the back as this is where most of the fullness of the skirt is, and this helps the waistband and skirt lie flatter over my stomach.

I've cheated slightly for the blouse and picked up a shirt with a high collar from ebay. I'm going to add lace to the front and maybe some volume at the shoulders as it doesn't have full sleeves. Assuming it arrives that will be tomorrow's job, along with finishing the skirt. I'm going to wait to take a full photo of the whole outift when it is all finished, but I've attached some photos of the details.

I'm not sure if this will interest anyone but I just needed to write it down as thinking about it was taking up so much brain space!

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117
In the wardrobe / Re: Taking in / resizing a polo shirt?
« on: July 21, 2018, 16:36:03 PM »
Thanks, this is all very helpful!

I can't try it on for a week or so as it was delivered to my parents' house (oops) but my mum kindly sent me the measurements today. Comparing it to a polo top I like the fit of, I need to lose 3 inches in length and 4-6 inches total in width, so not a huge amount. I'm hoping the neck / collar will look ok because of this.

I also need to add additional black stripes, I'm currently thinking of using non-bleed fabric markers but that might end up looking very home-made. I can't think of any other way to do it though, unless I try to print it somehow?

118
In the wardrobe / Re: Taking in / resizing a polo shirt?
« on: July 20, 2018, 22:10:39 PM »
Yes, that was concerning me too, but I can't see any way to make the collar smaller. I don't mind the shirt looking a bit big on me, so I wouldn't be taking it right down to a 6/8, I just don't want it to be completely hanging off. I can see my current plan making it look out of proportion with itself though.

119
In the wardrobe / Taking in / resizing a polo shirt?
« on: July 20, 2018, 21:37:37 PM »
I'm trying to make a replica of a stage costume for a party and I always like my costumes to be as accurate as possible. In this case, it means finding a polo shirt with a very specific stripe pattern. I've found one second hand that's the closest match I've seen and very cheap, but it's a men's medium and I'm a size 6/8 on top, with very narrow shoulders. I need it to be the same style but narrower and potentially shorter. Would it work to rip the side seams, take the sleeves out, recut the body to the right size and re-sew the side seams and put the sleeves back, leaving the shoulders and collar untouched? I don't want to ruin it but equally it will look ridiculous with the sleeves starting halfway down my arms!

120
In the wardrobe / Re: Remaking my prom dress
« on: December 20, 2017, 13:45:55 PM »
jen I absolutely love the idea of doing something like V1542 on the neckline, that's beautiful! I've got plenty of the original fabric left to make embellishments for it.

The prom dress has been put away again until after Christmas to get it finished without a deadline, I really do love the fabric and I agree that it's worth fixing it properly.

I finished the black dress by hand (regretted that slightly with the 3m of hemming but it does look neat) and then found the dress I'd originally been planning to wear but thought I didn't have any more hiding at the back of my wardrobe! At least the black dress is finished though and it's the kind of thing that's always useful to have.

So now it's only my partner's outfit left to get made with a deadline, and then back on to the prom dress.

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