The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: RachelB on April 06, 2021, 14:48:24 PM
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I have had some minor changes in my body since I last sewed. Formerly, it was the case that all I had to do was take out the fullness in the front armscye and neckline to get a good fit. Now, it has become more complicated. I am currently trying to fit a pattern bodice and it has gotten to the point that I am afraid to try on my latest muslin for fear of what the latest fitting issue will be. I am going to try it on today, though. This has gotten me to wondering if it would be better if I just learned to draft my own patterns. For instance, in the future I would like to make this dress in the following link:
https://www.jcrew.com/m/shops/up_to_40_off_wear_now/dresses/tiered-rufflesleeve-cotton-poplin-dress/MP691?color_name=sapphire
I haven't found an exact pattern for this, but I have found two that I could frankenpattern together, with some adjustment to the neckline. It seems like it would be less of a hassle to just draft it from scratch. If I invest in something like the Lutterloh system, would I be able to draft a dress like the one in the link. I would love to be able to examine a dress and draft to fit me.
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@RachelB there are many different pattern drafting systems. I have an old Lutterloh one myself.
But whatever one you use you still have to have some knowledge. Any system works on measurements. But that does not take into account a person’s shape etc.
Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric. The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes.
Patterns don’t generally fit anyone. They are a starting point. If you know the alterations you have to make then generally you will have to do that each time before starting a project. Learning pattern cutting is a useful skill but takes time to learn and a decent teacher if you can find one. They’re a bit thin on the ground over here!
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@RachelB there are many different pattern drafting systems. I have an old Lutterloh one myself.
But whatever one you use you still have to have some knowledge. Any system works on measurements. But that does not take into account a person’s shape etc.
Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric. The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes.
Patterns don’t generally fit anyone. They are a starting point. If you know the alterations you have to make then generally you will have to do that each time before starting a project. Learning pattern cutting is a useful skill but takes time to learn and a decent teacher if you can find one. They’re a bit thin on the ground over here!
@Ohsewsimple Thank you. I was afraid it was not a magic fix all. :(
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Drafting your own blocks will certainly give you an idea of your body shape and the skills to alter ready made patterns
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Drafting your own blocks will certainly give you an idea of your body shape and the skills to alter ready made patterns
@Efemera thank you.
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Having looked at the dress you linked to it looks as if it’s made from straight pieces of fabric. The tiers certainly are and quite honestly the bodice looks as if it is too with slight shaping for the neck and armholes.
I agree, there really is minimal shaping in that dress, all the shaping is done with gathers, not a dart anywhere, Although if you look very carefully the back bodice at the waistline has a very slight upwards/concave curve and the front bodice has a downwards/convex curve, but that's only noticeable because of the gingham fabric. The tiers are cut straight on grain.
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Sorry @RachelB, but pattern drafting is a steep learning curve requiring as many fit increments as you are currently experiencing with your toile.
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My experience of pattern drafting is that it's easy to do on someone else but much harder to do on yourself, beginning with accurate measurement. I learned at evening class, about 30 years ago, where we paired up for measuring and basic block drafting, so I'd recommend using a buddy to help - someone who has some interest in sewing/crafting.
In terms of how to go about learning the skill, it depends on what kind of learner you are - are you the sort of person who can pick up skills direct from texts or are you, like me, more 'monkey see, monkey do'? If you can self-teach from books, there are many, of which tI have are Winifred Aldrich's 'Metric Pattern Cutting' and 'Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear', and Natalie Bray's 'Dress Pattern Designing', 'More Dress Pattern Designing' and 'Dress Fitting'. The Bray ones date from 60 or 70 years ago but are still in print, which shows you how well-thought-of they are!
If you think you need someone to teach you and you don't have any personal contacts who might, see if any of the colleges in your area do textiles and fashion, in which case approach them about extra-curricular classes.
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Sorry @RachelB, but pattern drafting is a steep learning curve requiring as many fit increments as you are currently experiencing with your toile.
@UttaRetch I was afraid so. I looked at the Lutterloh system and it seems that just measuring hip and bust to get a good fit is too good to be true. On the positive side, I think I have my muslin for my dress almost right. :) I tried it on last night and had to let out the side seams just little. There is a little fitting to be done in the back bodice, but it does not look totally terrible.
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My experience of pattern drafting is that it's easy to do on someone else but much harder to do on yourself, beginning with accurate measurement. I learned at evening class, about 30 years ago, where we paired up for measuring and basic block drafting, so I'd recommend using a buddy to help - someone who has some interest in sewing/crafting.
In terms of how to go about learning the skill, it depends on what kind of learner you are - are you the sort of person who can pick up skills direct from texts or are you, like me, more 'monkey see, monkey do'? If you can self-teach from books, there are many, of which tI have are Winifred Aldrich's 'Metric Pattern Cutting' and 'Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear', and Natalie Bray's 'Dress Pattern Designing', 'More Dress Pattern Designing' and 'Dress Fitting'. The Bray ones date from 60 or 70 years ago but are still in print, which shows you how well-thought-of they are!
If you think you need someone to teach you and you don't have any personal contacts who might, see if any of the colleges in your area do textiles and fashion, in which case approach them about extra-curricular classes.
@HenriettaMaria Thank you so much for the information.
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As others have said, initially drafting doesn’t let you off the fitting hook. You draft a block to your personal measurements, but then need to sew it up in calico, fit it ( don’t overfit!) and transfer any alterations back to the block. After this stage, which can be slow and tedious if you don’t have a fitting buddy, you have the means to draft styles and know that they will fit, usually without further fitting hours.
What drafting doesn’t do is guarantee that you will be pleased with every aspect of the design, so you may still find yourself modifying your first stab at a pattern. That bit has been done for you when you buy a pattern. For example, how much gathering in the layers? All of the bust dart used in neck gathers, or just some of it? How deep and in what proportions the tiers.
To start drafting you need basic maths and good accuracy and an eye for shapes. I used to think it was a walk in the park until in teaching it I met students who couldn’t eyeball lines and shapes or recognise a right angle when they saw it, and some who couldn’t figure how an asymmetric line had to go as it wrapped round the body.
I would encourage anyone to learn drafting because I find fitting other people’s patterns a PITA, but many brilliant dressmakers get along just fine and never want to embark on that journey.
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I have a few pattern drafting books. I have looked at the illustrations and the maths involved and decided I am not up to drafting a bodic block. I get a reasonably good fit if I choose a pattern with cup sizes and Vogues are good for me.
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@UttaRetch @jen reading your responses and others has made me decide that it is more than I want to take on. I will just stick with adjusting patterns.
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@RachelB are you a beginner dressmaker?
If so I think you’re right. You need to sew and get some things made and enjoy wearing them. When I started pattern cutting donkey years ago we had a couple of people in class who hadn’t got a clue. It made it difficult for the rest of us to get on with anything. I was a bit annoyed that they were told the course would be fine for them when it clearly wasn’t. You need some understanding of patterns and basic dressmaking to start with.
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@Ohsewsimple I have been sewing for about 22 years, but I have never had the fitting issues I am having now. I am the same size and all my clothes fit the same, except that some of my dresses are slightly tight in the chest due to me having had reconstruction surgery because of a mastectomy. My chest is 2 cup sizes larger. It just turned out that way because of the way the implants are sit, but I am happy with it. I went from a 34B to a 34 D. However, before this, all I had to do to a pattern was take out the gaping at the neckline and front armscye, and that was all I needed. I did not have to worry about understanding fit. I am just getting so frustrated with a muslin(toile?) I am trying to fit to me. I fix one problem and another one crops up. I am trying to make myself a knockoff of a Vampire's Wife dress: https://thewebster.us/shop/the-falconetti-dress.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3vrTv4Xv7wIVirbICh31fQBmEAkYAyABEgIiKfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Here is my 5th muslin of it:
Front: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51102139948/in/dateposted-public/
back: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51102140488/in/dateposted-public/
left side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51103006475/in/dateposted-public/
right side: https://www.flickr.com/photos/192120208@N05/51101898341/in/dateposted-public/
It is overfitted. The bodice feels a little tight. I am on another sewing forum, too, and have been advised to try it on with heels to see if that will "fix" the lower back waist line and high front hemline. If not, I will pinch out the folds on the lower back with a dart that goes to nothing at the side seams. I need to lower the height of the armscye under the arm, and let out the side seams for some breathing room. Also, I need to shorten all the darts. I noticed that there is some looseness under the bust. in this picture of the Duchess of Cambridge wearing the dress in a different fabric, there is no looseness between those front darts under the bust: https://unitedkingdom-grlk5lagedl.stackpathdns.com/production/uk/images/1583485937763815-Kate-Middleton-Wears-Vampire-Wife-in-Ireland.jpg?w=1920&h=800&fit=clip&crop=faces&auto=%5B%22format%22%2C%20%22compress%22%5D&cs=srgb
But it was pointed out to me that the inspiration dress has one set of darts coming from the side seams up to the bust (french darts?). Is that the problem with the looseness under bust? Do I need the "french" darts instead of the bust & waist darts?
I am going to make those changes that were suggested, but I am getting so frustrated because this is my 5th muslin. This is more info than you asked for :( but do you have any suggestions?
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@RachelB, I've been following your progress on the other place and reading the advice, some of which I feel is not good and will not get you where you need to be. From the top:
you need a full bust adjustment and have to pick the high bust measurement as a starting point. The difference between the high and full bust is what you will use to distribute the 'spread' across the bodice. When you do a full bust adjustment (https://www.seamwork.com/magazine/2019/10/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments), typically the front bodice tilts up and you need to compensate for this;
the back bodice is still too long. Find the narrowest part of your torso, place a piece of ribbon around it and have someone measure for your back length, that is from the nape of your neck to the line around the waist;
I notice from the other place that the front hemline tilts up and that is because the bodice also slopes upwards. I also think that the darts in the back of the skirt are too long.
I don't think you can compare your nicely rounded body to that of the very thin Duchess of Cambridge and it is possible that hers was altered to fit.
I took a look at the things you have made in the past and honestly, the fit is good. I keep saying this, but don't be tempted to overfit. You need to walk and sit down.
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@UttaRetch Thank you so much! I tried doing the FBA and failed miserably at it. It was the first time I had ever done one, and I missed getting the apex of my bust in the right place and got the bodice too big. Do you think the FBA will take care of the looseness between the front waist darts? Do I need to do it after I correct the pattern for the gaping neck and armhole? Also, my full bust measurement is 36" and my high bust measurement is 34". I thought that the 34" bust measurement that was given on the pattern I am using (M8032) was for the high bust, so I chose a size 12. However, it is for the full bust. The size 14 is for a full bust of 36". I am wondering if I need to just start over with a size 14? Also, thank you for that link to the FBA tutorial. That is very clear and I see now what I did wrong on my FBA.
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I agree with @UttaRetch in that you need an FBA. Knowing that, that would be my starting point.
The dress is also too tight. Adding width at the side seams is not the right way to go about it. If you let out the side seams, the sleeves won’t fit! You need space within the bodice so that is where it should be placed. The FBA will give you width and length. The side seams look to be sloping forward. The FBA will also correct that providing length and allowing the seams to swing back to where they should be. So as has been said, start with your high bust or chest measurement for a pattern. Then work out the difference between that and your full bust. The difference is the amount that needs to be added. You have to remember to halve the amount as you will be working on half the front as a pattern.
Also as said, you must check what your waist position is and the nape to waist length.
If you look at the picture of the dress in the link it isn’t a great fit actually!
And as for Kate’s dress. I doubt those are just darts. I think that has been contoured. Ordinary darts take out fullness and the garment skims over the bust towards the waist. The only way you get that serious curve and fit is to use contoured darts or very fitted princess seams. It is taking out all excess fabric and fitting the garment closely. It’s the sort of thing you see on corsets and evening gowns that are close or very close fitting. It can’t be accomplished by simple straight darts.
If you’re only on muslin 5 that’s not bad! :) I know it’s not what you want to hear. But the closer a fit, the more problems can arise and the more precise you have to be.
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May I throw my suggestion into the mix. A DVD called Full Busted by Marta Alto deals with the bust area as the title suggests. Marta was also instrumental in the book Fit for Real People, and if you can follow Marta's way to do the FBA you cannot go wrong. At the beginning of the DVD she takes you through the whole process very clearly, and of course you can stop and start the DVD as much as you want to, so by copying what she is doing may help you. In addition to the DVD and the book Marta tells you exactly what equipment you are going to need to be able to do all of this, and thus it is worth taking the trouble to look at this and compare to what you already have at home. i.e. a cardboard cutting out board that is already marked in inches, some Scotch Magic Tape but you need the 1/2" size, also you will need some Perfect Pattern Tissue by Palmer Pletsch and this is again marked up in squares, and you cut into strips different widths so that you have the correct amount to insert when doing the FBA. The first time I tried to do this I used stuff I already had, and made an almighty mess and what a waste of a pattern. I now have the correct items and having watched the DVD several times now I realise and understand just what is happening. Marta makes it look so easy, and it is just like having your own personal one to one tutor in the room with you. Marta is using real people to tissue fit and of course some of these people are lovely and slim whilst others are more generously endowed.
Once you have a garment that is fitting you correctly and is comfortable, then this is just the start for other garments, and of course you can then use designer features to make your own version just as nice as the pattern.
By the way I have mentioned the Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, this book has been around for a good few years now, and more recently they brought out an updated version and that title is Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting. Both books are covering all sorts of fitting issues and again are using real people.
I personally find that the DVD Full Busted and either of these fitting books excellent and have helped me a lot in my own personal fitting issues.
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I agree with @UttaRetch in that you need an FBA. Knowing that, that would be my starting point.
The dress is also too tight. Adding width at the side seams is not the right way to go about it. If you let out the side seams, the sleeves won’t fit! You need space within the bodice so that is where it should be placed. The FBA will give you width and length. The side seams look to be sloping forward. The FBA will also correct that providing length and allowing the seams to swing back to where they should be. So as has been said, start with your high bust or chest measurement for a pattern. Then work out the difference between that and your full bust. The difference is the amount that needs to be added. You have to remember to halve the amount as you will be working on half the front as a pattern.
Also as said, you must check what your waist position is and the nape to waist length.
If you look at the picture of the dress in the link it isn’t a great fit actually!
And as for Kate’s dress. I doubt those are just darts. I think that has been contoured. Ordinary darts take out fullness and the garment skims over the bust towards the waist. The only way you get that serious curve and fit is to use contoured darts or very fitted princess seams. It is taking out all excess fabric and fitting the garment closely. It’s the sort of thing you see on corsets and evening gowns that are close or very close fitting. It can’t be accomplished by simple straight darts.
If you’re only on muslin 5 that’s not bad! :) I know it’s not what you want to hear. But the closer a fit, the more problems can arise and the more precise you have to be.
@Ohsewsimple You know I was thinking the same thing about the inspiration dress. I zoomed in on it and there are some definite fitting issues. On the size 12 dress pattern I am using, the high bust is 32", the full bust is 34", and the finished bust measurement is 38". My high bust is 34" and my full bust measurement is 36". Are you saying to stick with this size 12 and do an FBA of 2" since the difference between my high and full bust is 2"? I have always sewn a size 12, because that is what my bust measurement called for before, but now that I have figured out that the bust measurement on the pattern envelope is for the full bust, the size 14 fits my bust now. I am sorry if I am being dense. :|
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May I throw my suggestion into the mix. A DVD called Full Busted by Marta Alto deals with the bust area as the title suggests. Marta was also instrumental in the book Fit for Real People, and if you can follow Marta's way to do the FBA you cannot go wrong. At the beginning of the DVD she takes you through the whole process very clearly, and of course you can stop and start the DVD as much as you want to, so by copying what she is doing may help you. In addition to the DVD and the book Marta tells you exactly what equipment you are going to need to be able to do all of this, and thus it is worth taking the trouble to look at this and compare to what you already have at home. i.e. a cardboard cutting out board that is already marked in inches, some Scotch Magic Tape but you need the 1/2" size, also you will need some Perfect Pattern Tissue by Palmer Pletsch and this is again marked up in squares, and you cut into strips different widths so that you have the correct amount to insert when doing the FBA. The first time I tried to do this I used stuff I already had, and made an almighty mess and what a waste of a pattern. I now have the correct items and having watched the DVD several times now I realise and understand just what is happening. Marta makes it look so easy, and it is just like having your own personal one to one tutor in the room with you. Marta is using real people to tissue fit and of course some of these people are lovely and slim whilst others are more generously endowed.
Once you have a garment that is fitting you correctly and is comfortable, then this is just the start for other garments, and of course you can then use designer features to make your own version just as nice as the pattern.
By the way I have mentioned the Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, this book has been around for a good few years now, and more recently they brought out an updated version and that title is Palmer Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting. Both books are covering all sorts of fitting issues and again are using real people.
I personally find that the DVD Full Busted and either of these fitting books excellent and have helped me a lot in my own personal fitting issues.
@Elnnina Thank you so much for those suggestions. I will definitely check out the video and the books.
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Stick with the 12. That is better for your bone structure, especially if you have gaping at the neck and arms. So many people try to base all their fitting off the bust. In doing so they aren't fitting their frame, their bone structure, and neckline and sleeve problems ensue.
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Stick with the 12. That is better for your bone structure, especially if you have gaping at the neck and arms. So many people try to base all their fitting off the bust. In doing so they aren't fitting their frame, their bone structure, and neckline and sleeve problems ensue.
@Renegade Sewist Thank you. I will.
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There’s some top notch advice here. Many people overfit at the toile stage. If the fabric is a woven you need up to four inches of ease on the finished bust measurement. I saw your toile on the other forum and agree that fixing the back waist to match your natural waist will help.
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I second the FBA video, and the book. Both very helpful.
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Rachel please forgive me I posted very late last night and forgot to mention something. McCalls patterns – some of these are designed by Palmer Pletsch (yes of the fitting tissue fame) and on the pattern envelope up near the word McCalls, you will find the name of Palmer Pletsch as well. Now some of these patterns marked this way – will actually have extra lines already printed on the pattern tissue so it is these lines that you actually follow in order to do the FBA. Now I do not know when they started doing this, so you may find some patterns have this and some do not. However to help me initially I went through the DVD seeking out the various patterns that Marta had used (believe me in places it is very difficult to pick up the pattern number) and then using Google I went looking on the internet, and I was able to pick up factory folded and unused/discontinued patterns quite easily. If you can find a pattern that has these extra lines on that will be a great help in getting you started. Marta also shows you how to get the bust shaping in the correct place as we are all different, and that will help you a lot, by drawing a box around the bust shaping and cutting this out and then placing this in the correct position for you and filling in the gap with other tissue. It is all these little hints and tips that make Fit for Real People and the Full Busted DVD so very useful. At the time I purchased the Full Busted DVD I was able to buy the patterns that Marta had used – but only those I was particularly interested in in this way and it did make quite a difference when following Marta as she steadily worked through the fitting process. I believe over in the USA people buy up the discontinued/out of print patterns and then sell them on via Etsy and other ways – and this is how I obtained mine – perhaps being over here in the UK it was an expensive exercise but I was rather desperate to try and get my fitting issues sorted and found this was the way to go.
Once you have mastered this technique you can then apply this to other patterns – so it is something I think you will find very useful. Yes maybe initially on starting out on this journey you may have to spend a bit of money acquiring all the necessary bits and pieces that will help you, but I do not think you will be disappointed.
I think the Full Busted DVD is the next best thing to going to classes to be fitted, in fact having Marta residing in your workroom/sitting room has been a great help to me.
May I wish you good luck in your fitting process.
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@RachelB the book @Elnnina recommended is excellent for a first fitting book. I have lots but that one is easy to follow. Haven’t seen the DVD but I would imagine it’s very good to see the techniques in action so you can follow it.
As far as pattern sizing is concerned I know the advice from Palmer/Pletsch is to substitute your chest or high bust measurement for the full bust. So your 34” high bust would then mean using the size 12. Personally I don’t work quite that way because I can’t quite see the logic. If a pattern is designed to fit a high bust of 32” then it’s designed to fit a 32”. And the neck, armhole, shoulders etc etc are all based around that measurement. But it is entirely up to you. I know lots of people work that way. But if I was making a block for myself I would be using my chest measurement.
Another way to choose patterns is to look at the finished width of the garment. It is up to you how close fitting you want your garment to be. But you do have to bear in mind the shoulder, neck, armhole widths etc. So do I suggest you stay with the 12? Hard to say. But if you moved up to the neXt size you may not have to do the FBA because there is only 2” difference. You would probably not need to mess with the armhole as that would already have more room.
One thing I would like to mention. When sewing a toile make sure the neckline has a seam allowance on. Staystitch on the seamline to prevent it stretching. Then clip into the seamline so it can be folded out of the way or at least so it doesn’t choke you! :)
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The patterns to look for are 'amazing fit'. If you go to Jaycotts site and put that in the search box, you get a good range. I have a different skirt pattern that is not there so probably out of print but look on ebay too.(UK only because of customs!) You can also search for 'cup sizes'. Several companies do patterns with different cup sizes included. Don't go by bra cup size, look at the measurement instructions for them.
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There’s some top notch advice here. Many people overfit at the toile stage. If the fabric is a woven you need up to four inches of ease on the finished bust measurement. I saw your toile on the other forum and agree that fixing the back waist to match your natural waist will help.
@jen Thank you.
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Rachel please forgive me I posted very late last night and forgot to mention something. McCalls patterns – some of these are designed by Palmer Pletsch (yes of the fitting tissue fame) and on the pattern envelope up near the word McCalls, you will find the name of Palmer Pletsch as well. Now some of these patterns marked this way – will actually have extra lines already printed on the pattern tissue so it is these lines that you actually follow in order to do the FBA. Now I do not know when they started doing this, so you may find some patterns have this and some do not. However to help me initially I went through the DVD seeking out the various patterns that Marta had used (believe me in places it is very difficult to pick up the pattern number) and then using Google I went looking on the internet, and I was able to pick up factory folded and unused/discontinued patterns quite easily. If you can find a pattern that has these extra lines on that will be a great help in getting you started. Marta also shows you how to get the bust shaping in the correct place as we are all different, and that will help you a lot, by drawing a box around the bust shaping and cutting this out and then placing this in the correct position for you and filling in the gap with other tissue. It is all these little hints and tips that make Fit for Real People and the Full Busted DVD so very useful. At the time I purchased the Full Busted DVD I was able to buy the patterns that Marta had used – but only those I was particularly interested in in this way and it did make quite a difference when following Marta as she steadily worked through the fitting process. I believe over in the USA people buy up the discontinued/out of print patterns and then sell them on via Etsy and other ways – and this is how I obtained mine – perhaps being over here in the UK it was an expensive exercise but I was rather desperate to try and get my fitting issues sorted and found this was the way to go.
Once you have mastered this technique you can then apply this to other patterns – so it is something I think you will find very useful. Yes maybe initially on starting out on this journey you may have to spend a bit of money acquiring all the necessary bits and pieces that will help you, but I do not think you will be disappointed.
I think the Full Busted DVD is the next best thing to going to classes to be fitted, in fact having Marta residing in your workroom/sitting room has been a great help to me.
May I wish you good luck in your fitting process.
@Elnnina Thank you so much for all you help and information. I will definitely get that DVD.
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@RachelB the book @Elnnina recommended is excellent for a first fitting book. I have lots but that one is easy to follow. Haven’t seen the DVD but I would imagine it’s very good to see the techniques in action so you can follow it.
As far as pattern sizing is concerned I know the advice from Palmer/Pletsch is to substitute your chest or high bust measurement for the full bust. So your 34” high bust would then mean using the size 12. Personally I don’t work quite that way because I can’t quite see the logic. If a pattern is designed to fit a high bust of 32” then it’s designed to fit a 32”. And the neck, armhole, shoulders etc etc are all based around that measurement. But it is entirely up to you. I know lots of people work that way. But if I was making a block for myself I would be using my chest measurement.
Another way to choose patterns is to look at the finished width of the garment. It is up to you how close fitting you want your garment to be. But you do have to bear in mind the shoulder, neck, armhole widths etc. So do I suggest you stay with the 12? Hard to say. But if you moved up to the neXt size you may not have to do the FBA because there is only 2” difference. You would probably not need to mess with the armhole as that would already have more room.
One thing I would like to mention. When sewing a toile make sure the neckline has a seam allowance on. Staystitch on the seamline to prevent it stretching. Then clip into the seamline so it can be folded out of the way or at least so it doesn’t choke you! :)
@Ohsewsimple thank you so much! I am going to stick with the 12 for right now and do the FBA. Then I am going to see what else I need to do. If I keep having problems I may try the size 14.
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The patterns to look for are 'amazing fit'. If you go to Jaycotts site and put that in the search box, you get a good range. I have a different skirt pattern that is not there so probably out of print but look on ebay too.(UK only because of customs!) You can also search for 'cup sizes'. Several companies do patterns with different cup sizes included. Don't go by bra cup size, look at the measurement instructions for them.
@toileandtrouble Thank you. I have heard of "amazing fit', but I have never used one. I will look at them.