The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: Acorn on August 19, 2018, 21:11:48 PM
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I have just been cutting out the pattern for a Lekala top that has diagonal darts. This is the technical drawing:
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Unfortunately on cutting out the pieces I realised that the top is very short, coming only just below the waist. I need it to be at least 4 inches longer, preferably a bit more, and normally I would just lengthen it at the appropriate point. However, because of the diagonal dart I cannot do this. This is the pattern piece:
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Does anyone have any advice? Should I fold the dart and add length below it, or do you think this would lose the effect of the dart?
Should I just look for another pattern...? -<
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Just cut along that P2/1 horizontal line.. add 4 inches and draw in the dart again.
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Of course... I was thinking that that would change the shape of the top, but actually it'll just make it like the technical drawing, which is what I wanted in the first place!
Thanks Effie. :)
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As far as I can see the only difference would be that the dart will emanate from the side seam instead of from the bottom of the garment. It will be like the dresses we used to make in the 60s - my first wedding dress had darts just like that.
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If you do as Efemera says and join the dart legs (bottom) to the point then the dart will be the same and end up in the same place.
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I've just cut out and pinned this and tried it on, and I think the combination of the sewn down box pleat and the diagonal darts is going to make a really lovely top - it has a lovely shape, fitting where I want it to and skimming in all the right places. I might miss off the cuffs. Not sure yet.
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I shall watch this one with interest Acorn. That could well be a top that would solve a lot of my problems, i.e. hide them!
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I've posted a picture of the top over on my sewing diary thread. (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php?topic=3194.msg82377#msg82377)
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@Acorn I loved your top so much I've bought the pattern this morning.
Let you know how it goes...
Annieg
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Brilliant! I hope you like it. :)
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@Acorn toilet cut and pinned together this afternoon but didn't print off the making instructions so will need to check back Lekala tomorrow.
Watch this space....
Annieg
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@Acorn I just noticed my "deliberate" mistake in my last post - I should have said TOILE not Toilet!! :|
How far down (from the neckline) did you stitch the front pleat?
Annieg
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[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] @Acorn
Here's the toile - sorry its not a good photo.
The fabric is heavy-weight (more like curtaining) but a great colour and I'll probably finish it off as a wearable toile.
What do you think?
Annieg
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That looks good - I love the fabric.
I sewed the centre pleat pretty much to the line marked on the pattern, which is also the line at which I inserted the extra bit to make it longer. I pinned it all together and tried it on (ouch ouch ouch!) first and made sure that I was happy with the dart at that point.
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@Acorn . There's about 1 metre plus left if that fabric. It's yours for the price of postage if you want it.....
:D
Annieg
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The French dart is Peggy Sagars' most commonly used dart. It's flattering and friendly - the positioning seems to be far less critical than a side seam dart. Not that I can talk.
I've included a side dart in my self-drafted leotard sloper but none of my lycra patterns have any at all. I did sew up one of her tops for me but my first attempt was too tight and around the time I settled down to redrawing it I started losing weight again and then the heatwave hit so I'm just waiting for autumn to try it on again!