The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: Efemera on April 25, 2018, 17:55:41 PM
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I’m looking for the ultimate quick TShirt pattern... like this one with a cap sleeve. The problem is if you’re wide then the cap sleeve is no longer a cap sleeve, it’s halfway down your arm which isn’t very flattering. What shape would the armscye and shoulder be to make it a lot shorter
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I don't see why a cap sleeve has to get longer just because the pattern is a bigger size. My guess is that it was originally drafted as a small size and graded up, and the grading process made the neck bigger and added to the bottom of the sleeves as well.
To work with the pattern you have I suggest re-drawing the neckline to bring the neck end of the shoulder seam closer to the centre and then just shorten the sleeves to the length you would like them.
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I know exactly what you mean about that type of cap sleeve, Efemera, it's a style I avoid like the plague!
I've found I just need that shoulder seam, or sleeveless, so I'm not sure I can help you with re-shaping a cap sleeve.
I think you'd need to start with making sure the armhole isn't too big?
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Is it worth trying another pattern? The Blank Slate Blanc t-shirt is pretty much exactly the same as that one, and is free if you join their Facebook group. (I haven't made it, but am intending to.)
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I don't see why a cap sleeve has to get longer just because the pattern is a bigger size. My guess is that it was originally drafted as a small size and graded up, and the grading process made the neck bigger and added to the bottom of the sleeves as well.
To work with the pattern you have I suggest re-drawing the neckline to bring the neck end of the shoulder seam closer to the centre and then just shorten the sleeves to the length you would like them.
It does.. I’ve tried at least half a dozen patterns..I have narrow shoulders and they have to be narrower than the bust measurement ..I usually have to take off around 4-5 inches from the shoulder. It makes for a very odd looking pattern shape. Maybe like Bodge said I should do a set in cap sleeve.
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Effie, I'm going out on a limb here. By wide, are you meaning you have some extra girth? A bit plump for your frame? And do you have a substantial bust? If any of that is the case you might be functionally narrow shouldered without really being narrow. And if you truly are narrow shouldered as well you might/probably need to start with a smaller pattern size and do both a full bust adjustment and what I call a full torso adjustment.
Do you select by your full bust measurement or upper bust? I've lost a lot of weight, almost 6 stone, after putting on over many years and sewing through most of it both up and back down. At my peak I became functionally both narrow shouldered and short waisted despite being 5' 8.5" with a 17.25" back waist and very broad shoulders. If I used full bust clothes were sloppy big in the neck and shoulders.
Using the upper bust measurement even now I'm 2 or 3 sizes smaller shoulder area than full bust measure puts me. I do fairly well doing a small dartless FBA, which is great for knits and adding on under the arm for my torso.
I can link you to dartless FBA info if you're unfamiliar.
BTW: when designer Diane Ericson was fitting one of her blouse patterns to me in class and said I needed to do a short waist adjustment I thought she was daft. -< She was right, but I would have never thought of it. As the body changes we get to try all sorts of new things.....
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Ottobre spring/summer 2/2013 have a couple of very simple t-shirt designs with cap sleeves. here (https://www.ottobredesign.com/en/)
Renegade Sewist, I'd be interested in the link to the dartless FBA, if you have time.
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Here you go! Video by Louise Cutting (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/2012/07/03/pattern-adjustment-for-a-full-bust-without-darts) on the Threads website. They have other videos for their paid Insider subscribers. Learnt this in a class with Louise. Note there is a limit as to how much can be increased, all explained. I have it all noted on an index card for easy reference.
There are a number of methods online if you do a search. Some get way too complicated to get to the same place. I find the one Louise does really clear and easy to follow. Quick too! BTW-I don't own any of her videos but having taken a couple of classes and owning her old OOP self published books any info you can get from Louise is worth it's weight in gold. She is an immaculate sewist and teacher.
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I’m a size 20 UK.. but not particularly big busted, I’ve tried FBA. The thing I’ve fortune is that the simpler the design the harder it is to achieve; especially on a bigger frame. (I’ve taught pattern cutting )
This is the shape of most cap sleeve Ts but I think the second one is what I would be aiming for. On the first one even with a shortened shoulder there’s a lot of excess under the arm.
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I've just looked at the video RS, and it's something I can see me trying. Very simple, but looks effective.
Thank you!
Jessie
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Moving just a little bit away from the idea of a really quick pattern, Lekala 4656 (https://www.lekala.co/catalog/tops/pattern/4656#model) is pretty much the shape you've just drawn.
(https://www.lekala.co/files/-r-/models/2098/2098_technical_drawing_23251.jpg)
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RS, thanks for the video link, it's going to be very useful!
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I like that Acorn... it must be possible to add the sleeve to the bodice and cut it in one, it’s how to finish the hems... may have to be bound
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Found this... bought it, there’s 25% off at the moment.