The Sewing Place

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - badgermat

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Patterns Discussion / Re: Pattern for single-breasted coat needed
« on: June 11, 2022, 11:46:50 AM »

Brilliant.

The Tessuti and Makerist patterns in particular look close enough for me to tweak.

Many thanks for all the suggestions.

bm

2
Patterns Discussion / Pattern for single-breasted coat needed
« on: June 11, 2022, 04:14:55 AM »

Hi,

My daughter has asked me to make her a coat. So far, so scary. However, she is quite specific about what she's after (I blame the parents  >:) ). This is the example she's given - https://nz.assemblylabel.com/collections/womens-new-arrivals/products/single-breasted-wool-coat-chalk-pink

All the patterns I can find are either double-breasted or a much more conventional cut and construction. So, does anyone have any suggestions for a pattern I could start with?

I’m not averse to altering the pattern, even quite a lot, but would like to start with something that’s at least vaguely similar.

Thanks

bm

 [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  


3
In the wardrobe / Re: Men's shirts
« on: September 30, 2021, 08:08:09 AM »

That pattern matching is great @CCL , nice work.

bm

4
Sewing Machines / Re: Edited question – machine for heavy fabrics
« on: September 15, 2021, 08:55:42 AM »
A "heavy duty" stretch stitch is a bit odd. How often is this needed?

Haha ... so I changed the question and missed that glaring ambiguity. D-oh.

As you have spotted, I don't need stretch stitches for heavy fabric. Just for the odd occasions when I'm making things in more typical fabrics. My current machine has a zig-zag and one stretch overcasting option which I have found a bit limiting when making tee-shirts or toddler-wear.

I do take your point about just testing machines, and about the likelihood of going for a much older machine. Though I suspect a keyhole buttonhole may not be easy to find if I go that route.

Thanks.

5
Sewing Machines / Edited question – machine for heavy fabrics
« on: September 13, 2021, 01:12:03 AM »
Currently I'm using a Bernette B33, which while a bit limited is pretty good with heavy fabric (250gsm linen, tweed, even denim if I don't go mad), which is important to me.

But I'd really like some more stitches (decent stretch options and a couple more buttonholes – keyhole in particular).

So, what should I be looking at to do this. Price, around £500ish, similar to the Janome 740DC or Bernette B38.

Thanks.


6
In the wardrobe / Re: First make with new Janome machine
« on: September 03, 2021, 10:53:25 AM »

Great fabric and the elasticated waist is beautifully done. Wish I could do that.

bm

7
In the wardrobe / Re: Beginner trying to understand a Burda pattern...
« on: August 27, 2021, 10:06:51 AM »

Great work @Andymat. Love your use of those Ikea bath sheets and sewing in the care instructions is just inspired.

bm

8
In the wardrobe / Re: Shirt, jacket or something else.
« on: August 02, 2021, 03:51:27 AM »
Looks a bit like a Scottish tweed - like a Lovat tweed from the.Scottish borders. But I suppose you have your own NZ tweeds!

Bizarrely for a country with as many sheep as NZ, we have almost no textile industry here. And certainly no local Tweeds (that I'm aware of anyway).

I think part of that is down to the sheep breeds here, which only really produce wool suitable for knitting rather than weaving.

bm

9
In the wardrobe / Re: Shirt, jacket or something else.
« on: August 02, 2021, 03:47:01 AM »

Many thanks for all the kind comments. I suspect there may have been some beginner’s luck with the pattern matching.

I can recommend the Paola pattern, and the adjustments weren’t all that hard in the end. Maybe that was beginner’s luck too :)

bm

10
In the wardrobe / Re: Men's shirts
« on: August 02, 2021, 03:42:47 AM »

If you're looking for a simpler shirt pattern that's easy to adapt for fit or formality, you could do a lot worse than Vanessa Mooncie's in har book the Gentleman's Wardrobe ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gentlemans-Wardrobe-Vintage-Style-Projects-Modern/dp/1861087470/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=the+gentleman%27s+wardrobe&qid=1627871107&sr=8-1 ).

The pattern includes short and long-sleeved variants, a simplified sleeve placket and a full front placket, and has a yoke that doesn't require burrito assembly (a bonus, I thought). The collar is a bit big, but that's an easy fix.

It's a fairly traditional design, with a boxy cut, but I've found it simple to adjust for a much slimmer fit. I certainly had no problems slimming down the arms, and creating a more fitted look, and reducing the ease required in the sleeve head. I suspect making it work for narrow shoulders would be trickier though.

Most of the shirts I've made have been relatively casual, but with the right fabric choice, this pattern can be made to look a lot sharper.

bm

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  




11
In the wardrobe / Shirt, jacket or something else.
« on: July 29, 2021, 22:49:08 PM »

It's the middle of winter down here, so the perfect time for a thick outer garment. That was my thinking anyway.

So, here's my winter overshirt made from a tweed-like woollen fabric. Far too heavy for a shirt and maybe even too heavy for a shacket. So perhaps it's a shoat (!).

Pattern was adapted (significantly) from the Fabric Store Paola jacket. A new, larger facing was added, jacket/coat style buttoning, the cut was changed to suit a male frame, completely different, cuffed sleeves were added along with many finishing details. Oh and it buttons-up left-over-right (original pattern was for a woman).

I'm quite pleased, particularly given that it was my first attempt at pattern-matching. But there are things I'll change for the next one. Different lower pockets (bigger), an inside pocket, and I'll probably re-built the back panel with a central seam and vent.

bm

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  


12
Sewing Machines / Re: Bernina Bernette B77
« on: June 25, 2021, 10:20:15 AM »

It's probably just that the Bernette machines are repackaged Janome designs (as I understand it). The B77, and the Janome it's based on, were probably designed with the dual feed as an original feature.

I imagine adding it to a completely different machine (ie, an other Bernina) is likely prohibitive. Either from an engineering perspective, or a patent licensing perspective if Pfaff have a patent on the system.

bm

 

13
Technical Help / Re: Shirts
« on: January 25, 2021, 04:38:55 AM »
@badgermat -   I was just poking around the site this morning and noticed your September post.  Not sure that the information below is of any use now - being as it is so late -

Thanks for the detailed description. And while I've (kinda) got to grips with flat-felled seams, there's always something new.

In this case, I'm interested that you start your side seam at the arm. Hadn't occurred to me to go that way, but I can see it has advantages.

Thanks

bm

14
In the wardrobe / Re: Pattern size advice
« on: January 05, 2021, 18:41:41 PM »
Another strong recommendation for making a toile. Preferably out of something a bit heavier than a bedsheet.

If you don't have or can't easily find some cheap calico, try curtains from a charity shop (seriously). Quite apart from anything else, it should be a lot clearer which is the right and wrong side of the cloth  ><

In my limited experience, the parts that will prove the most problematic will be the junction between the lapel and collar, and doing things like welted pockets. If nothing else it will be worth doing a partial toile of these elements.

bm


15
In the wardrobe / Re: Summer sews
« on: January 04, 2021, 20:02:43 PM »
What is the material you have chosen? For only one year - WOW!!!

Thanks. The shirt is in a mid-weight Korean linen and the jumpsuit in a heavier cotton twill.

The linen was great to work with, very stable and forgiving of the occasional need to unpick and re-do.

bm

Pages: [1] 2 3