The Sewing Place

For Sale & Wanted => I saw this & I thought you may be interested! => Topic started by: Ohsewsimple on August 02, 2019, 18:34:03 PM

Title: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Ohsewsimple on August 02, 2019, 18:34:03 PM
I’m sure most of you know but just in case anyone doesn’t.....
Sign up for Style Arc newsletter at the moment and get a free trouser pattern
https://www.stylearc.com/promotions/free-barbs-pant-pattern-download/?legacy_uri=threads-promo
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: wrenkins on August 03, 2019, 07:23:24 AM
Thanks for that @Ohsewsimple. No I did not know and now I have yet another Winter project.  :)
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Kenora on August 03, 2019, 14:13:11 PM
Thanks from me too - I now have another trouser pattern to ignore try out. :)
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 08:59:44 AM
This is probably my favourite trouser pattern, I've made a good few of these.

I don't use Bengaline though, I found it horrible.  I just use a fabric with some stretch.

Thanks @Ohsewsimple , well spotted.

Jessie
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Ohsewsimple on August 05, 2019, 09:41:23 AM
@b15erk I’ve read good and bad things about this pattern.  What do you think of the crutch shape?
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 09:52:02 AM
I can't remember having any problems @Ohsewsimple , apart from the fabric.  I'm sure they recommended Bengaline, and it was horrible.

I'm wearing a pair now, and they fit really nicely.  I haven't got access to my altered patterns atm - got lodgers, but I can't remember any alterations except the leg length off hand - I've got short, fat legs!

I'll see if I have any notes on the PC, but I'm pretty sure it was fine for me.

Jessie

Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 10:09:51 AM
@Ohsewsimple , I've just searched my posts on here, and found quite a big problem with a second printing of the Stylearc Barb trousers.  The pdf seemed to be coming up very big, and needed alteration.

I can't remember the first printing I did, but it must have been OK, as I used it and used it.  I re-printed it, but found the second print came up very large. One of the problems seems to be that Stylearc don't print finished sizes.

I'll be printing this off later, and I'll do a check on the sizing square, as I think that may have been the problem.

Jessie
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Acorn on August 05, 2019, 10:14:33 AM
StyleArc do give finished sizes, although for their older patterns that tends to be just the measurements for a size 10, with the instruction to add/take off 2 inches for each size.  Clearly that doesn't work for the total crotch measurement though!

If you go to the Barb page on their website (https://www.stylearc.com/shop/pdf-sewing-patterns/barbs-stretch-pant-pdf/) and click on Fabric Estimates and Measurements you get the size 10 finished measurements.  It's on page 2 of the pdf pattern, too.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Ohsewsimple on August 05, 2019, 11:34:23 AM
Thanks to you both.  I’ve downloaded the pattern but the back crutch  extension looks very short to me.  I’ll have a look and a ponder. 
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Kenora on August 05, 2019, 11:46:13 AM
@b15erk - could I ask what you found "horrible" about the bengaline, please, as I was considering buying some to make up these trousers? I found some "medium weight" bengaline which was recommended for jackets and trousers, at £4.99/metre which I thought was very cheap, but I've never used it before so I'd be interested in your thoughts. Thanks. :)
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 11:55:27 AM
@Acorn, thank you! My eyes are bad at the best of times, but I really have missed that bit about the size 10 sizing.  It's not ideal, but I guess I can work it out better from this.

I've no access to my traced patterns atm, and any sewing I do, will be from stash and patterns I keep at work.

Jessie
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 11:58:01 AM
@Kenora , the Bengaline I got was 'swishy',  when you moved in it, and quite stiff.  It was also a one way stretch, so there was a lot of waste.

I think it was from Croft Mill, but not sure.

Jessie
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Kenora on August 05, 2019, 12:12:35 PM
Thank you @b15erk - the stuff I saw was on Tia Knight's website, but I definitely wouldn't want anything stiff, so I'll probably give it a miss. Hopefully I'll be able to get out at some stage and venture into Truro Fabrics so I can have a feel (if they have any). I usually have to buy on-line but it's a bit of a hit-and-miss process. :S
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 05, 2019, 12:19:28 PM
@Kenora , that was my problem, I couldn't get any locally, so had to buy online.  Never used Bengaline before, so not sure if what I bought was typical, but it was awful.

Very easy to sew, but the cutting out was wasteful.  I hated the 'rustling', and 'swishing' when I moved as well, so they have never been worn.

I don't know if all Bengaline is like this, but this was my experience, and for me, an expensive waste.

Jessie
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Kenora on August 05, 2019, 12:40:25 PM
No, I don't know what Bengaline is supposed to feel like either @b15erk - it's just what Style Arc recommend. I've seen a nice lightweight stretch twill from RayStitch - and have a sample - it's in lots of different colours so I might go with that. I've got a birthday coming up and have been promised a trip to a fabric shop if I'm feeling well enough to go. Haven't been for years so it's quite an incentive - will keep my fingers crossed. :) Thanks for all the info - it's been very helpful.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Helen M on August 05, 2019, 12:44:15 PM
I'm not a huge fan of bengaline, but I've made the Barb pants from ponte and they worked well. Maybe add a bit extra on the seam allowance just in case the fit isn't how you want it to be.

On the other hand bengaline isn't expensive so it would perhaps work for a wearable muslin. I quite like my bengaline pair for gardening or anything that I'm stretching for.

I always make up the waistband first to make sure it stretches over my hips and cut the rest of the pattern accordingly.

You need quite a bit of stretch for the Barb pants to work @Kenora .
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Kenora on August 05, 2019, 12:51:21 PM
You need quite a bit of stretch for the Barb pants to work @Kenora .

Thanks for that info @Helen M - I hadn't thought about the amount of stretch. I'll have to have another look at the pattern and my fabric choices. :)
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Vezelay on August 05, 2019, 15:32:26 PM
I looked into Bengaline a couple of years ago and noticed that the stuff Style Arc was selling had a high % of viscose, whereas all I could find at the time on UK websites like Minerva was mainly polyester. I'm sure that's moved on now but it put me off. I imagine you get what you pay for.

I've made the Style Arc Elle - also intended for Bengaline - a few times now using various stretch wovens no problem. I got the Barb as a freebie way back but never made it as the Elle shape suits me better.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: aprilla on August 05, 2019, 16:17:50 PM
Thanks for the heads up @Ohsewsimple. I don't really need another pants pattern but couldn't resist. I was worrying about the size to pick when I read they send a size above and a size below with the size you pick, so that's nice. I've never tried a StyleArc pattern, it'll be a new adventure :)

@Kenora I hadn't known the tiaknightfabrics site, happily their postage to me seems quite good so I'll play with their shopping bag a bit  :P
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Ohsewsimple on August 05, 2019, 16:55:55 PM
@aprilla if you’re looking at Tia Knight be careful.  I had a few bits from her but wasn’t impressed when a jersey labelled viscose was most definitely polyester!   :angry:
And I think many were labelled cotton viscose.  What the heck is that?   It's either cotton or viscose or cotton and viscose mixed.   I’ve also seen this elsewhere and it annoys me.  I like to know what I’m buying. 
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: aprilla on August 05, 2019, 17:14:52 PM
@Ohsewsimple good to know thanks. I've been looking at the fleece selection, thinking about nothing in particular, so if any appeal I should be fairly safe. I keep putting stuff in the shopping cart and so far the postage stays at €5,43. That's fantastic for me.

I received the free pattern but I don't know when I'll print it... all that joining A4 sheets!!! But I do like the shape of the crotch curve, I think that works for me.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: fajita on August 05, 2019, 17:57:04 PM
I've ordered the free trouser pattern, but I've never made trousers before, bar one pair of cotton pyjama trousers.

Not sure if I'll get round to making it up, I'd have to shop for fabric, and thread the overlocker (hissss).

But it's there. Thankyou.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: wrenkins on August 05, 2019, 20:02:13 PM
I ordered it too and if it gets made it'll be my third trousers; also including pyjamas @fajita  :D
The pattern specifies 30% stretch which is quite a bit. Presumably there is a correlation between amount of Elastane/Lycra and amount of stretch but is it direct or does it depend on what else is in it?

or what.....?  :[
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Helen M on August 05, 2019, 20:28:55 PM
The stretch is needed to get the garment over your hip as the body bit is a fairly (plesantly) close fit as they are pull on.

I keep meaning to try to figure out how to work the waistband so that I can make them with a zip. You wouldn't need as much stretch then.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: wrenkins on August 05, 2019, 20:36:44 PM
I was thinking about a zip too @Helen M as I have some lovely stretch cotton sateen but that might be just a little step too far for my (very) limited skills.  0_0
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: aprilla on August 05, 2019, 21:32:10 PM
@Helen M I've done a trouser (Burda Style magazine, Marlene pattern I think) with a zip in the back seam, and I was able to move it to the side seam in another pair. It was just applied in the seam allowances, but you would have to make changes to the waistband.
I could look out the instructions if interested.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: Helen M on August 05, 2019, 23:10:55 PM
It's not so much the seam allowance as such but the waistband being able to fit without any elastic and probably have the zip come right up to the waist. It's not a curved waistband as such but it isn't the straight piece of fabric that it is on the Elle pant.

One alteration I did do and if you are able to look at the pattern piece it will make more sense.

The piece which is cut twice and looks a bit like this at the fold line >-------------< . I am low waisted so needed the angle of the > < to be sharper so I cut the fold line to the size smaller and re drew the cutting line, keeping the bottom edge to the size of the main pant. It makes it lie much flatter on the actual waist (even with the elastic inside it) rather than above it which is how I like my pants to fit. Maybe the waistband needs to be even smaller at the fold line if it has a zip?

I also made the band less deep by about 1/2" and used 1" elastic which I found deep enough. I also slightly angled the elastic when I joined the ends so that it was more like the shape of the waist band.
Title: Re: Style Arc free pattern
Post by: b15erk on August 06, 2019, 09:01:02 AM
As I'm unable to access my sewing room or it's contents, I've printed off another copy of this.  The scale is correct, and using the limited information on finished size, I've printed the size 16.  I will stick it together later, and measure.

I'll be back!

Jessie