The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 10:58:05 AM

Title: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 10:58:05 AM
She wore blue velvet… bluer than velvet was the night. 
:dance: :dance: :dance:  (I do hope this forum has a music licence)

I wasn’t sure whether to post this here or in ‘Fun with Fabric’…but as I’ve a feeling this fabric mightn’t be fun….

Back in September I bought a length of blue stretch velvet….with not a thought that at that point I hadn’t so much as threaded a machine in aeons let alone used one to sew a garment…but hey ho.. Reach for the stars and all that….

I’ve been reading up on how to sew said slinky beastie… cut it out right side facing down in a single layer, use tissue to help to stabilise when sewing, use a small stitch,use a light pressure on the presser foot, use fusible hem tape, avoid top stitching, avoid buttonholes & zips….  :faints:

Any other suggestions, tips & tricks would be greatly appreciated as I'm hoping to avoid a reinactment of 'charmeuse-gate'.  :facepalm:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Silver Rose on February 07, 2021, 11:02:31 AM
Can't advise you @Lemon Syllabub I'm afraid, I've never been brave enough but I am sure the many experts here will come to your aid. You are certainly forging ahead, good luck.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Ploshkin on February 07, 2021, 11:04:27 AM
My only advice would be 'don't' but that's not helpful is it   :)

The only thing I can say is try out the stitching on scraps until youvare confident handling it.  I have an inkling someone had a thread in here recently about velvet not sure if it was stretch.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Renegade Sewist on February 07, 2021, 11:20:16 AM
She wore blue velvet… bluer than velvet was the night. 
:dance: :dance: :dance:  (I do hope this forum has a music licence)

No but I'm quite sure we have a liquor license.  :gin:  :toast:  :laughing:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 11:26:24 AM
My only advice would be 'don't' but that's not helpful is it   :)

@Ploshkin To be honest, that's probably the advice I'd give myself, but it's looking up at me and it's soo pretty and sooo soft.
Perhaps I need to stop stroking fabric and buy a cat?  :meow:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 11:29:07 AM
No but I'm quite sure we have a liquor license.  :gin:  :toast:  :laughing:

@Renegade Sewist I blummin well hope so, unless I'm taking my gin and I'm not coming back!  :boohoo:
                                               
:gin:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Greybird on February 07, 2021, 11:39:54 AM
@Ploshkin my thread was about heavy velvet for soft furnishing and upholstery and it was bonded onto a backing fabric - I don't think my experience with that will help @Lemon Syllabub . I think there might have been another thread but can't remember what it was.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Catllar on February 07, 2021, 11:41:36 AM
I've used it a lot in costumes . It is the devil's fabric. My two pieces of advice?

1) Don't

2) If you really want to. Pin pin pin pin pin pin pin pin. In addition to all the other stuff you have been advised to do. Avoid pressing  if you can.  Have much gin to hand.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 11:59:32 AM
@Catllar Now you've really scared me.  :scream:

I've seen the fab photos you post. You're a whizz with the old stretch fabric and if you're saying it's nasty perhaps I should just put it back in the cupboard & step away quietly.....
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: BrendaP on February 07, 2021, 12:06:34 PM
I think it was @UttaRetch who had problems with a stretch velvet dressing gowm.

An overlocker is my advice for sewing said fabric, but if not use a narrow zig-zag and finish the seam allowances together with an overcast stitch as it will want to roll.  Oh, and have generous hems to minimise the tendency to roll up.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Silver Rose on February 07, 2021, 12:07:16 PM
Did @UttaRetch sew with stretch velour recently? I know she got quite cross with it ;)
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 07, 2021, 12:16:29 PM
I did three tops last winter (or maybe the one before...) with machine embroidery on them too.

Me being me, I just whacked 'em through the overlocker  0_0
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Ohsewsimple on February 07, 2021, 12:20:12 PM
I’ve worked with it before but I use an overlocker as well and it does away with most of the angst. 
Makes one unholy mess of the machine and surrounding area with all the fluff!   ;)
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: UttaRetch on February 07, 2021, 12:23:49 PM
I did have problems with stretch velour - lining up the edges and sewing - but @Catllar has refused point blank to work with velvet (https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,11808.0.html).
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Nevis5 on February 07, 2021, 12:29:33 PM
I think a lot depends on the type of velvet.  The last top I made went together OK I think .  I did use a walking foot and tacked (basted) all the seams as well as double pinning them.  It is a bit of a beast though - if you get the really stretchy stuff it will probably drive you potty.   :headbang:  Sorry!  x
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Catllar on February 07, 2021, 12:39:54 PM
Yep @UttaRetch  is right  - I have recently turned down a job that wanted velvet. Life is too short and there are other lovely fabrics that play nicely. Velvet is a bitch. But don't let that put you off! :devil:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 12:46:49 PM

Me being me, I just whacked 'em through the overlocker  0_0

I like your style.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 07, 2021, 12:49:56 PM
Velvet is a bitch.

So that'll be another fabric for my naughty pile.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Catllar on February 07, 2021, 14:38:33 PM
No, give it a go but try on something small first, I dunno - a  hair scrunchy or something. You might be a natural at working with it.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Celia on February 07, 2021, 14:55:44 PM
I don’t mind real cotton velvet but stretch with no overlocker :scream: :scream:

The worse one I did was a stretch Devore velvet and I wanted to wear it that night >...........

Advice.     Buy an overlocker :devil:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Gernella on February 07, 2021, 15:07:06 PM
I do remember years ago I had some lovely velvet for a dress.  As I remember I had no problems at all, lately with some cotton velvet, again no problems, stretch velvet not had but since my machine has IDT I think it would be fine, won't it  :angel:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: UttaRetch on February 07, 2021, 16:16:53 PM
At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, an overlocker is not necessary any more than is a cover stitch.  Those are machines that people like to have, but not for me.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: dolcevita on February 07, 2021, 16:28:12 PM
-Go with the narrow zigzag stitch.
-Have intermittent pins at about 15cm intervals and as you sew it, gently tension the fabric between what's just gone through the feed dogs to the next pin. This helps guard against one layer of fabric creeping along the other.
-If you have a walking foot, that helps enormously.
-Don't have your presser foot pressure too high, either, as this can make the fabric creep worse.
-If some of the seams are curling horribly and your fabric is washable, spray the edges with spray starch.
-Test launder and press a sample first to see how much you can abuse your fabric before committing to any method of bending it to your will.
-Don't be scared of it until you've tried. It's only fabric.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 07, 2021, 16:30:21 PM
I wouldn't be without my overlocker or coverstitcher.  They may not be strictly necessary, but they make sewing things like stretch velvet an absolute doddle.  0_0

One could argue that any sewing machine isn't necessary, you could sew anything by hand.

Why struggle when there's a machine that will do a great job?
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: UttaRetch on February 07, 2021, 16:34:29 PM
I can't be bothered with a machine that I can't see to lace up or control.  Don't need that sort of crap in my life.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Gernella on February 07, 2021, 18:49:03 PM
I can't see to lace up or control. 

Lace up? @UttaRetch
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: charley on February 07, 2021, 21:18:46 PM
I made a reversible cape type thing before Christmas, using stretch velvet type fabric. I did read about potential problems before starting. I used a narrow zig zag, and a white foot for ?sticky fabric, not a regular foot anyway. It turned out ok, I was pleased with it. This is a photo of it on the floor; two colours of fabric.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Ohsewsimple on February 07, 2021, 21:38:54 PM
I’m with @Bodgeitandscarper i couldn’t do without my overlocker or Coverstitch.  But I make all my clothes and they make it so much quicker and professional looking.  Threading is a doddle on mine and very quick.  Why struggle if you don’t need to?
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: BrendaP on February 07, 2021, 22:58:03 PM
At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, an overlocker is not necessary any more than is a cover stitch.  Those are machines that people like to have, but not for me.

That's true of all sewing machines.  You CAN sew anything with just a hand held needle, but wouldn't it take a lot of time and skill!
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lachica on February 08, 2021, 09:29:54 AM
I'm with @Bodgeitandscarper . I love my overlocker (and coverstitch). Don't worry too much about it, go for it!
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on February 08, 2021, 18:19:05 PM
Thank you so much for all your help and advice. I’m going to put my big girl pants on and give it a try.  :thumbsup:

I’ve spent today faffing about with pattern pieces. I’ve just cut out some fabric with a lot of give in it for a wearable toile & if I can get the fit right then I’ll attempt to remake it in my ‘blue velvet.’
(No, I’m not singing! :dance:)

It’s really interesting reading people’s thoughts on whether or not to use which machine. One of the things I like about sewing is there are so many different ways to do things and people find their own preferences. If all goes to plan then I intend to do quite a bit of hand stitching in the construction of my ‘blue velvet’ (still not singing,  :dance: Honest), top. If I decide I like making clothes with stretchy fabrics then I can definitely see me investing in some machinery!

At the end of the day I think it’s whatever makes you happy.  And I’m all for people being happy.  :)
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Catllar on February 09, 2021, 13:02:25 PM
You ask a question of a group of people and you'll get different answers! At the end of the day, yes, do what makes you happy. Good luck with your project.
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: BriarRose on February 09, 2021, 21:29:36 PM
My two cents worth:

Cut in a single layer.

Pin seams together.

Hand baste seams, then remove pins.

Make sure it fits.

Sew carefully.

I made my daughter-in-laws dress of stretch crushed velvet and it turned out beautifully. People have especially admired the beautiful lettuce-edged hem. It is beautiful and I'm pleased with it. It was also unintentional.  :laughing:
Title: Re: Advice on sewing stretch velvet
Post by: Lemon Syllabub on March 06, 2021, 16:47:30 PM
She wore blue velvet  :dance: :dance: :dance:(yes I am singing… apologies to those of you with a delicate disposition )

Quick update. After all your fab advice. I finally sewed a relaxed fit tie-neck blouse. Super cosy layered over an M&S heatgen polo neck base layer (Yes I know, thermal underwear how glamorous!)

The slinky fabric beastie was more well behave than I had expected. I pinned it mercilessly and basted it within an inch of its life, only used a sewing machine on the main construction seams and hand stitched everything else!  :thumbsup:

So final thoughts. Would I sew with stretch velvet again?   
It’s a yes from me.  :dance: