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Messages - Morgan

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1
The Haberdashery / Re: Snap adapters
« on: March 10, 2021, 09:02:15 AM »
How about trying one with the 10mm adapter.


For my rivet press dies, I can use a size for the corresponding side of double cap rivet and the size below.  I just take a little extra care to centre the smaller rivet caps.


2
Patterns Discussion / Re: Chaval Coat
« on: March 08, 2021, 21:20:36 PM »
@Renegade Sewist   yes, the correct size across the shoulders does make all the difference.  Having looked at some photos of the coat sewn by different people with different fabrics, the fabric type does matter and less than ideal fabric will always amplify unresolved fitting issues, (whatever the project).
 
Often I sew from   'The Stash'   (which does appear to have become an entity).  That means what is there may not be an ideal choice for a particular garment/pattern and several times I have found myself making things work by changing the hand of a fabric by underlining with an interfacing to beef up something or on occasion amending a pattern to a bias cut to use something that's a little heavier than what the pattern designer had in mind.  Something soft and floppy can be made more substantial, but heavier, stiff and little drape is is always going to be a challenge. 
My current slow (stalled) sewing project is a coat using Burda Pattern 6486 and in addition to going my own way on some of the tailoring to give it a bit more support, the fabric I'm using has been converted from being a lightweight textured knit into something that now has almost no stretch but does have more body and much more stability thanks to underlining it with a decent quality knit interfacing applied at 90 degrees to the direction of stretch.

Potting Soil Brown - the description made me smile.

3
Patterns Discussion / Re: Chaval Coat
« on: March 08, 2021, 00:20:29 AM »
Take a look at the Cambria Duster from Friday Pattern Company. It's an unlined duster and I've seen some nice drapey versions online. The sample is a little stiff I think. I've seen the actual fabric and while lovely it cries out for topstitching. A gal taught the class here and it's really lovely IRL.
@Renegade Sewist In the real life version you saw, did the sleeves still have those twisting diagonal drag lines or did the maker adjust the pattern.  There does seem to be a lot of  twist on those sleeves - more than is usual on an unstructured / relaxed fit. 

4
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: "Trousers/Pants" February 1-28 2021
« on: February 05, 2021, 18:58:48 PM »
I stumbled apon this video last week -a construction of a pair of jeans on an old industrial machine. Maybe its inspiring to watch?
Lovely to watch the precision craftsmanship and attention to detail.  I also really like the understated branding  - classy. 
Yes, definitely inspiring. (Not a bad price for bespoke either - from £615ish)
 

5
Publications / Tailoring snippets
« on: February 02, 2021, 10:42:33 AM »
Anyone interested in tailoring, or just generally curious, here is a varied collection of short articles about some different aspects of tailoring or working in tailoring, with some nice tips and tricks scattered here and there


6
Hi, I'm new... / Re: Hello from Lancashire
« on: February 01, 2021, 21:59:40 PM »

...  Leyland Market and Chorley Flat Iron in particular. I don't know if they can still compete with the likes of Abakhan and Immanuel's these days,  . . .

Talking of biscuits... my former work colleagues became very partial to my regular treat of oat biscuits from Leyland Market which they fondly called my Lancashire biscuits. They never really got the taste for Goosnargh cakes (a very local speciality) but I miss those the most. Parched peas too.  :P

@Marniesews Chorley Flat Iron is still there (and hopefully will be again after lockdown) although it is somewhat different with more permanent stalls compared with how it was  20years ago.
There is a useful haberdashery stall for fairly ordinary stuff, thread, buttons, zips, piping and general habby.  Don't recall seeing a fabric stall there for some time.
For a while on Preston outdoor market there were a couple of fabric stalls, and the indoor market had another fabric stall but I suspect they've gone now, although I've not been for about 3 years now. 
It's a place of last resort and very rare visits for me, but Abakhans at Preston is popular with some and there are/were some smaller fabric shops in the New Hall Lane and Ribbleton Lane Area - they were handy for the odd something different when I was working in Fullwood and Preston a while back.

Now I go to Immanuels and Fine Fabrics at Burnley and occasionally Greens at Blackburn (aka Leons).  When it was open to the public we used to call in at Minervas at Darwen on the way back home from Burnely, but now they are on line only I buy very little from them if ever.  Other than when I visit family in London or go to a couple of 'shows' , I tend to buy most other stuff on line. 

As for Goosnargh Cakes - I've not seen or heard of them for a while.   Bit like sugary shortbread with caraway seeds.  Quite nice when fresh.  There was a small bakery in Longridge that sold them and we'd have them occasionally at work, but we tended to prefer cakes from Lathams at Penwortham.   As for parched peas (black peas for those who don't know them)- with or without vinegar, nope, no, not a fan, I never really took to those, even though both my parents loved them. 

Glad to see you've joined us @Queen Bee .  I look forward to hearing about your sewing projects. 

7
Sewing Machines / Re: Are you brand hooked
« on: January 29, 2021, 00:52:52 AM »
I like machines that do what I want them to do, are reliable, a decent quality build and feel right under my fingers.

Whether vintage and simple or a TOL whizzy gizmo dazzler (and I do enjoy a gadget or two) if a machine appeals to me it doesn't matter what the brand is. 

Whilst not exactly brand loyal, there are some machines/brands that never seem to attract me and a few that just don't 'feel right' to me.  I've tried 4 different computerised Pfaffs and no they're not for me no matter how hard I try with them.  I've also tried several Brother sewing machines, mid-range and TOL and Brother overlockers but again it's a no.  However, Brother Embroidery Machines - V3, Stellaire and Luminaire - yes they're great.
Now Berninas - I love some of the vintage Berninas and if you gave me an 1130 I'd be your new BFF but as for the 3 different modern Berninas I  tried - let's say we didn't gel.  I had a Bernina 1350 Overlocker/Coverstitch and sold it because the coverstitch was far too fussy.  Love the Bernina 1150 (fabulous machine) but having tried three Jukis - if I get another O/L , Juki here I come.  At the moment I have my first overlocker ever, a dinky little Bernina that I keep as a backup and I my main O/L Coverstitch - a Babylock Evolution. 
I've had 3 Janome sewing and embroidery combination machines and still have 2 - I use one for sewing only and the other for sewing and embroidery.  I know I am unlikely to buy another Janome embroidery machine.  If my 15000 packs up or I let it go, then I shall probably get a Juki sewing machine and a multi-needle embroidery machine. 
Of course my Vintage Machines will stay.

8
Sewing Machines / Re: Lidl sewing machine £69
« on: January 26, 2021, 11:49:52 AM »
It may not be your tension unit at all - It may be that your presser foot clearance height may need to be reset.


Why?  - well - (ignore if you know this)
When you lower the presser foot, the mechanism also pushes a little lever or rod that causes the tension discs in the top tension unit to close up and grip the thread.  Also when the presser foot is lifted, the mechanism doesn't just lift the foot it disengages the tension unit.

Perhaps the point at which your machine's presser foot engages the tension unit is set a little bit too low and by the time you have extra bulk under the foot, the tension discs are not quite closed enough and the result is the loose and loopy thread. 


then of course, it could be something completely different - it's just a process of elimination until you find the reason.

9
A Good Yarn / Re: Chunky rowan/quali studios jumper
« on: January 26, 2021, 11:43:08 AM »
Well done you for persevering. 

10
A Good Yarn / Re: My chunky knitting machine diary
« on: January 26, 2021, 11:37:17 AM »

Three more little jumpers.  They are so quick to make, take longer to sew up!

Yep, sewing up is a PITA - for ages I tried to get one of the Hague Linkers and I also fancied a chunky machine.  Never did get either of those.  I have sewn up lighter weight knitting on the overlocker.


  Every time I see this thread Bodge, I want to get my knitting machine out again (standard gauge). It was put partly put away when I moved workrooms and it's sat behind where I have my ironing board - waiting.  To use it, I'll need to move a couple of things around a bit.
I love (and miss) the  designing and experimental and technical side of things and the machine makes the knitting up so quick.  Then that voice in my head say, when these UFOs are done, get it out.  Then I get distracted again . . .

Love the marls and flecked yarns you are using. 

11
The Haberdashery / Re: Bobbin thread
« on: January 26, 2021, 10:48:44 AM »
I buy my (polyester) bobbin thread from Doris Darby at embroideredjust4u


I buy the 5000m cones (both white and black) and prefer to wind my own bobbins.  It's a fine smooth, lovely polyester HT 60s weight bobbin thread.
I know that lots of others buy the pre-wound bobbins in bulk.   Doris does both sizes - there is a chart here to check which size of prewound bobbin your machine uses if you want to try the pre-wounds.


For a spun polyester (matt) bobbin thread, I have cones of this from Empress Mills.  I tend to use this one when embroidering with Rayon 40s top thread (Madeira  Classic rayon), and also  use this spun polylight for both top and bobbin thread for matt finish FSL (and to test stitch FSL designs).

For most embroidery that I do, I use polyester embroidery threads (Simthread or Kingstar)  and I prefer the HT Poly bobbin thread from Doris above (or Empress Mills) for that.
I tend to buy it from Doris because I usually top up on Organ embrodiery needles, my go to stabiliser, polymesh cutaway and any Simthread colours I may be running low on.
I don't often replace the Simthreads as I mostly use Kingstar which I get from Somac along with their temporary adhesive and some other items.  You can also buy bobbin thread from Somac - they call it underthread.  (It's a spun polyester (matt) and it's okay, but I prefer the other 2 I mentioned above). 


Quick note. 
Some machines offer a different bobbin case for bobbin threads that does not have the same properties as the 'brand' used to calibrate the machine's bobbin case tension, eg. the red and yellow dot bobbin cases for some Janome machines.  On other machines, and just in general,  when you regularly use different types and brands of bobbin threads as I do, then it can be useful to buy a couple of spare bobbin cases and set the tension yourself (if needed) for each type of bobbin thread.   As my main embroidery machine is a combination machine, I keep a bobbin case for sewing, one for HT poly bobbin thread and one for the matt spun polyester.  It just makes life simpler and reduces the need to adjust the top tension.  (If needed I still adjust the top tension when working on very thin or thicker than usual fabrics but that's a different topic).

 

12
Sewing Machines / Re: Best sewing machine for bag making
« on: January 24, 2021, 23:32:06 PM »
There is a FB Group called British Bag Makers -A group for bag makers in the UK.  The membership is custom bag makers from professionals and designers to absolute beginners.
This question is asked quite often on that group -
the machines I see recommended there most often for bag making are

Janome HD9
Juki DX7
Jack H2 (with walking foot)

Also any industrial, set up for punching through layers

Those who use a vintage Singer (often a 201K) mention having the presser foot reset so that there is a deeper clearance

Most have another machine with decorative stitches for pretty stuff and other sewing.
Hope some of that helps.

13
Sewing Machines / Re: Tangled!
« on: January 22, 2021, 19:45:25 PM »

Wouldn't that put undue stress on the right needle?
@Wayfarer  - no, it's the left needle (or a single needle) that needs the thread to pass through the guide above the needle.  It's okay to skip the last thread guide on the needle clamp for the right hand twin needle unless there is a guide on both the left and right)
In fact on page 63 of the manual for my Janome 15000 it's an instruction and there's a diagram too.



14
Sewing Machines / Re: Tangled!
« on: January 21, 2021, 16:33:10 PM »
@Wayfarer   another couple of tips for when you cannot resist conquering the twin needle twisting top threads issue -


1.  Threading the machine - Make sure that one thread comes off the reel clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.
2.  Tension Unit - If your machine has a separator in between the outer discs that clamp together, make sure the threads are laid either side of the separator in the tension unit.  (If yours doesn't have a separator, pass both threads through the tension unit at the same time so they seat at the same level. )
3.  Quite important - if the threading guide at the needle clamp has two sides, use the left for the left needle and the other side for the right needle.  If you have only one side to the guide, then pass the left needle thread through the guide and skip that guide for the right hand needle thread. 


Hope something works for you.
 

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