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Messages - Morgan

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2
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: New overlocker tips
« on: March 08, 2024, 18:15:21 PM »
. . . My budget has been increasing with every new suggestion  :embarrassed:
I'm now looking at the Babylock and the Juki. They are both at the show so I can have a go with both lots.  0_0 Looking forward to it. (excited squee).
I am sure you will be delighted with either a Juki or a Babylock. 
Will you be getting a model with the bigger motor rather than the smaller models?
It's really worthwhile getting one with the bigger, more powerful motor, especially for working with fabrics of different thickness and layers.
The motor has a tough job to provide needle punching power and also drive the cutting knife and the feed dogs at a high speed. 

3
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: New overlocker tips
« on: March 08, 2024, 11:14:04 AM »
. . . my Bernina 800DL was made by Juki and is identical to MO-214D . . .
Yes, lots if Bernina machines were designed and produced  made at Juki Factories including the Bernina 1150MDA (excellent, high performace machine with a top mounted knife) which is pretty much the same as the Juki MO-734DE.  One difference is the additional micro tension adjustment feature on the 1150 MDA and another is the looper threading on the 734DE. In essence the same machine but the Bernina was sold at an inflated price. 

From what I remember, around 2008-2010 the Bernina contract with Juki ended and the production of Bernina overlockers was moved to other factories  but it unclear where.

There's a general commentary (+ echo chambers??) on the Internet that there are only 3 or 4 factories that manufacture overlockers but it's difficult to fact check whether that's true and which Companies own them. 
Bernina only publish that most of their sewing machines are made in the Bernina Factory in Thailand but they haven't said where their overlockers are made.
It's also unclear where Babylock have their overlockers made.

Not all the current domestic Juki models are available in all Countries including the UK.  I think that's a pity because I really rate Juki machines for performance/value for money compared with like for like models sold by other brands. 




4
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: New overlocker tips
« on: March 07, 2024, 18:25:32 PM »
I've threaded and worked with  all sorts overlockers - don't mind manual threading and do prefer to be able to manually adjust the tensions. 

Currently I have a 14+ year old Babylock Evolution (air threading)  and my 30+ year old Bernina (manual threading +knob dials for tension).

If I get another overlocker it will be a Juki overlocker only and a separate coverstitch - probably a juki industrial  which is a a dream to use and costs less than the Euphoria irxa couple of other higher end brands of coverstitch. 
 
Currently I think Juki offer excellent value for money in terms of performance whichnis comparable with the higher end of Janome, Bernina or Brother. 

5
Hi, I'm new... / Re: Hello
« on: March 07, 2024, 18:07:16 PM »
Hi Dan. The engineering & design aspects of sewing appeal yo me too. 
Don Morin gave off a similar vibe , initially published hundreds of project designs on his Weekend Designer Blog and later on another venture Bag n Telle. 
You may find both interesting, especially the process that shines through, even though he last posted in 2018/19.  It's still worth exploring. 


Enjoy the journey   

6
I saw this & I thought you may be interested! / Weaving custom fabric
« on: March 06, 2024, 15:30:21 PM »
If you fancy a trip down a rabbit hole about small run cloth weaving, just watch some of Sam's videos on Instagram by   Woveninthebone

It's a great insight into the process involved in setting up the loom and the effort.  So much goes into making the fabric . . . and then we cut it up to sew pieces together. 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4G6LBLolim/?igsh=cHRyY3V1cmxsYjk5
 For more videos-
https://www.instagram.com/woveninthebone?igsh=cms2Y3gyMjZ3eGZu

7
Deleted- answered the wrong question.

8
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: 2024 Jeans Sew Along
« on: February 22, 2024, 15:50:03 PM »
. . .  only to discover the button guard has come away from the front.  I have ordered some new buttons because there’s no way I can get the current ones off and will have to bodge a new button guard 
 [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
What an infuriating thing to happen after all that work and your perfect top stitching.
I probably would have sworn some very, very nasty words.
Will you replace the button extension or use it as a design opportunity for a creative solution?

10
Technical Help / Re: question about drag lines
« on: February 17, 2024, 17:11:53 PM »
@RachelB
As you are fitting solo, I wondered if it would help to do as much as you can on the pattern before the first fitting toile/muslin.
Alexandra Morgan has a useful collection of fitting and pattern making videos on her You Tube Channel which is where I get the links in ths post. 

https://youtu.be/dv8bNng19-A?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/EMsnw1S2g14?feature=shared

I believe that clearly marking the balance (reference ) lines on the toile is essential to be able to diagnose fitting issues and establish a a good fit. 
https://youtu.be/-VpZ6YIrycg?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/urfLcvNLIDo?feature=shared

Here on a pants pattern  she shows how to prepare the balance reference lines and explains some of the adjustments to prepare the  pattern before making a toile/muslin.
https://youtu.be/qZ0n_73H4h8?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/uQnPToWwb8c?feature=shared

For fitting a bodice, the shoulder is one is the first fitting issues to assess and deal with.  It's always a good idea at some stage to work out what your own shoulder slope is.
Also,it's helpful to know how to work out what the shoulder slope of a pattern is and then how to alter the pattern to revise the slope.
This video is about working out the actual shoulder slope of a sewing pattern.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
This video is about how to find the degree of slope of the shoulder slope line on the pattern.  Toward the end of the video, she touches on working with a front pattern angle and a back pattern angle which can be useful when working with a pattern that has been adjusted for a forward shoulder or slanted for style shoulder lines. 
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared

Once you know what your shoulder slope is, including any forward shoulder adjustment, it's worth making a template to save yourself time and trouble with any future patterns. 

And in case a forward shoulder adjustment is of interest.  She shows 2 methods in the linked  The first is the common visual line shift and the second is a combination adjustment that includes an armhole shape fitting adjustment at the across back and across chest levels.
https://youtu.be/jSwONVfA0Ow?feature=shared







11
The Haberdashery / Re: Kingstar Metallic - 5 new colours (Feb 2024)
« on: February 14, 2024, 14:09:04 PM »
Link doesn’t work @Morgan.  If it’s Facebook story rather than a post, it disappears after a day or so.   :(
How strange - the link takes me to the post on Somac Threads' FB page. 
Anyway, it's just information right now.  I'm just happy that we'll get a metallic purple and hoping there will be a metallic black as well. 

12
The Haberdashery / Kingstar Metallic - 5 new colours (Feb 2024)
« on: February 14, 2024, 10:35:56 AM »
Heads up from Somac Threads that 5 new colours of Kingstar Metallic will be available from the end of Feb 2024, including 2 different purple shades. 
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/yePvQd9PAK1K5VNH/

13
Technical Help / Re: question about drag lines
« on: February 13, 2024, 22:13:52 PM »
Probably a bit too late to the party -
After checking the front & back Stylearc photos I think there are 2 different fit issues going on abd probably more. 
1   Neckline balance - on each example there is some excess fabric across the upper chest.
 https://youtu.be/rxGucflvQb8?feature=shared
2.  The diagonal/comma shape draglines on the back  suggest that the shoulder slope is incorrect  indicated by the armhole being set too low.  The armhole needs to be lifted.  It's worse on one model as the dress is too snug around the waist and slightly too long in the bodice. 
Also, I suspect that the across back width is a little too wide. 




14
Ely Cathedral 14 Feb-17 March exhibition

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/kfkYMKs8qvHUUatW/

15
A Good Yarn / Re: Fitting a knitted garment
« on: January 17, 2024, 10:11:51 AM »
Coming at this from a different angle -

I have a garment pattern making softward package (now very old) that can be set for sewing  knitting ir weaving.  Create the pattern, then enter the details from the swatch (stitches & rows) and the programme creates simple row by row shaping.  You maintain the knitting/crochet/weaving pattern but follow the shaping for the row number. It works well. 
Garment Designer
https://www.cochenille.com/garment-designer/
They also have a Stitch painter programme   

Since this software became available, more programmes and knitting pattern generators have been created. Some are more sophisticated than a simple shaping guide.
Some are free some are paid for. 

https://knitanything.com/index.php?route=information/samplePattern

https://app.dreamknit.com/

https://knitsthatfit.com/

There are others.  Ravelry has discussions about these things too 

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