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Messages - Morgan

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31
Sewing Machines / Re: Getting on my own nerves!
« on: November 04, 2023, 20:50:19 PM »
Wouldn’t it be nice if we could order a custom-made machine with all the features we want and eliminating the things we don’t need? I suppose that could work for anything, even spouses.  :rolleyes:
Ahaaah, this is why I end up with machines that have so many features because I will not compromise on certain things like button holes and a few other features. 
However, I object to the way that some brands bundle the features on their cars  for example one middle I was interested in.
 The model was available in 3 versions.  I wanted most features in the middle band but was not interested in 5 of the pointless features, but did want 2 features only available on the TOL version.  I was not interested in any of the other unnecessary features of that model and  was not willing to pay the extra (ridiculous amount)  for the TOL Model.  Rear Parking sensors are not a TOL feature in my opinion and I object to the manipulative bundling of features to get people to buy more than what they need in order to get practically useful features over unnecessary 'luxury' features.  It felt like being forced. 
Fortunately for me I'm not particularly brand loyal  so the result was I did not buy any of the models and went elsewhere.  I'll bet that none of my feedback ever reached the people who make some of these nonsensical decisions.

32
Overlockers & Coverstitchers / Re: Overlocker recommendations please
« on: November 04, 2023, 15:37:36 PM »
Based on my experience of teaching lots of people how to use and make the most of a domestic overlocker.  I recommend strongly, very strongly -

-  choose and invest in an overlocker that has a bigger more powerful motor than the economy level model whichever the brand.  That means look to the upper end of the mid-range offerings.  More money but worth the investment to get sufficient power to drive the feed dogs, cutting knife and needle punching whether sewing heavier fabrics, layers or lightweights. 
Economy models are assembled down to a price point and have small motors so are intended and designed only for lightweight fabrics.  If that is all it will ever be used for (no thicker fabrics or tougher layers) then there is a case for getting one, flog it to death and then replace it with another. 
My experience has shown me that users have more issues with economy models and often have to learn extensive trouble shooting skills to coax and nurse a consistently reliable and acceptable stitch from their machines.  It can be dispiriting and often puts people off. However, if you know how to achieve what you want with an overlocker, then you can boss these models to sew, even if it's not exactly a pleasure to use.

- avoid models where you have to open out the front of the table or a door to engage or disengage the cutting knife. 
When overlocking in the round, it's an utter PITA to have to avoid trapping the fabric when closing the foot or front of the machine to continue stitching after disengaging the knife.  Much simpler and much quicker to turn a knob or push a button or lever or twist your a vertical knife up or down.   

-  avoid models where you have to change needle plates, or change out stitch fingers to be able to sew different widths of overlocking stitches. 

Brands - Juki  Juki, Juki, for value/performance.
Then Babylock and Bernina although both are ridiculously expensive in the UK for what you actually get. 
Then higher end Janome/Elna models and higher end Brother models. 

33
Fun with Fabric / Re: Where are you all buying your fabric?
« on: November 04, 2023, 14:40:52 PM »
Lately I prefer fabrics that have a bit more interest for me whether it's the fibre content or the colours and design. 
Often it costs a little more than what's generally available and takes a bit more effort to find.

My most recent buys are from from a couple of pre-order suppliers   
One example is this design in a Bamboo Cotton with lycra for a knit Tshirt/Tunic top. 
https://patternhappyfabrics.com/products/copy-of-in-the-garden-background-in-blue-0-5-metres?variant=45730158182680

Another place I like for curated fabrics and an occasional preorder designs is Lamazi Fabrics.

The shops I go to include Immanuels and Fine Fabrics at Burnley.
As I regularly visit family in London, I like to pick an area and explore fabric outlets in that area. I like Dalston Mill shop on Ridley Road but because it's rammed with fabric I only go when I'm  looking for something for a specific project. 

My personal general rule is to be very choosey about what I buy and it must be for a project on my immediate To Do list or if it's particularly interesting, unusual and inspiring and will become a specific outfit like a coat, jacket, dress ir an outfit in itself.   I no longer buy fabric just because I like it.  It must have a specific project that will be made within 6 months because I also have to sew up the stash fabrics I have chosen to keep.

I like to go to to shows like the Knitting and Stitching shows to buy fabrics from the stalls for my project list.  Rosenbergs, Nicole's Dots and Stripes and a couple of others are places where I usually manage to find some fabrics I like. 

34
Patterns Discussion / Re: Maison Fauve
« on: November 04, 2023, 13:02:28 PM »
Some of their patterns are far from beginner friendly but they have marked a selection of simpler patterns though I can see one or two that could be disappointing with no experience in fitting (but good for learning)
https://maison-fauve.co.uk/collections/beginner
I'm always looking out for useful resources, guided demonstrations and tutorials for the people I teach, particularly those in a couple of community groups I assist who manage their own learning and mostly teach themselves.  It's about 70/30 for those who are happy to follow books and written instructions (70) and those who need Demos/Videos (30).

35
Patterns Discussion / Re: Maison Fauve
« on: November 04, 2023, 12:24:23 PM »
@Greybird and I was prompted to look up Maison Fauve after reading your post.

There are a couple of coat patterns that caught my attention and oh how I wish that more of the sewing patterns were more aligned to my personally preferred styles.
Even so, how great and accessible their approach is with the tutorials, videos, blog/journals and podcasts.
The visual presentation is appealing too.
The linking together of patterns, education and curated fabrics is a great way for each strand of the business to feed into the others. Impressive. 
It takes a great deal of commitment, investment and effort to maintain such a comprehensive publication/broadcast offering.

Despite seeing references to English subtitles I couldn't get them to work so just muted the sound as my French is not good enough to follow (my bad).
 As I'm already familiar with sewing techniques and garment assembly, I understand what is being demonstrated.   
What I cannot judge is whether a beginner would be able to follow the demos without some translation.

36
Until 7 Nov, Stuart Anderson has offered half price Access all Areas at Pattern School Online.
 This offer means 12 Months access to all the Tutorials, Pattern Making Lessons  and other resources for approx £30 ($37.50 USD) instead of the usual $75 USD.

* Pattern Making for Stretch fabrics, has some additional considerations to pattern making for wovens .

The coupon offer code is Pattern School.
https://www.patternschool.online/support

37
Sue Dewsbury intends to retire.  Her Give donations to get machine Embroidery Design projects to fundraise for a Hospice will close in early December. 
From now until December she has a great offer for  bundles of designs for a donation of £20. 
There are lots of clever in the hoop projects so this is an amazing offer. 
The link to her FB Group. 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/208211239626036/?ref=share

38
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: 2023 Capsule Wardrobe Sewalong
« on: October 22, 2023, 23:55:31 PM »

For these teal pieces  . .  .  I don't think the polyester shirt and trousers will live with me long (I don't like the fabric really) and the turquoise set have already been relegated to PJs.

The teal stuff mostly doesn't work in the wardrobe concept because they are all slightly different shades so don't look great together, so I am going to need the print pieces and the dark brown (and made some cream) to make it more wearable.

I love that you posted about not all plans working out as well as imagined when setting out on the journey.  Sharing about pausing to review how things are going and choosing to stop or change direction can be helpful and reassuring to less experienced stitchers. 
At the end of last year and the start of 2023 I went through a 6 month spell of mild disappointment with most of the items I made.
 I was testing several new to me patterns and sewing them from the fabric stash. ( I've been going through a bit of a styles shift as I revamp the wardrobe.)

 All the items made up just fine, yet there was something 'off' with all but 3 of them which have made it into the wardrobe.   Only one top was a failure and binned before spending any more time on finishing it.  The silver lining was learning what I liked and didn't about the new patterns and the fabrics I'd prefer to use next time.
I've gifted 4  items to friends and 3 I've decided to pass on will go to the charity shop. 


39
Publications / Re: Tauko magazine - anyone tried it?
« on: October 22, 2023, 22:11:24 PM »
I appreciate the approach and content of the magazine, but the styles of the patterns are just not my taste. 

40
Patterns Discussion / Fashion Design Software
« on: September 28, 2023, 02:36:40 AM »
This article highlights some of the main Fashion Design software packages around. 
Some offer 2 and 3D modelling and some also include pattern generation modules. 
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.cadcrowd.com/blog/what-is-the-best-clothing-design-software-for-3d-rendering-modeling-apparel/amp/

The packages I've heard most about recently for pattern making/pattern generation are Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw, CLo3D and TailorNova.
CLo3D and TailorNova use a subscription business model. 

Now these programmes in themselves are intended as tools for the fashion industry and patternmakers.  As tools what can be done with them to illustrate a design and produce a 3D model is amazing. 
They're not substitutes for a lack of pattern making skills and education.

 However increasingly, there are reports appearing about  some so called 'independent designers' using these types of programmes to produce sewing patterns for sale that turn out to be untested and downright 'bad' or wrong as in poorly drafted.  Copying someone else's design, generating a pattern and then selling on Etsy or another platform can be done easily now by unscrupulous sellers but, without an understanding of patternmaking, sewing know how or actual testing,  errors become more common.  Errors are compounded when these people copy already bad copies of patterns. 
The copyright infringement and ethical issues are a different aspect this growing problem.

Perhaps best to support only the independent designers who encourage their customers to let them know about any issues or glitches they have with the designer's patterns. 

Two sides of the digital pattern making coin. 





41
Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: Weekly Sewing Club Tuesdays 2-4pm
« on: September 19, 2023, 11:21:20 AM »
Outside is wet, dull, windy and all manner of unappealing  vs  pleasant, dry  uninterrupted afternoon sewing. 

Today's activities
Assemble shell top
Cut & sew PJ bottoms
Cut out sweatshirt






42
Oh I would have loved to go to this  :boohoo:
Sadly it will not happen so I will just carry on looking at stuff on the internet and hoping that one day I will be able to do something more than an hour away from home!
Frustrating isn't it   

They offer Live virtual tours with commentary via zoom for this event.  Tickets for the Lives are here.
https://shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/events/?v=79cba1185463

Not quite the same as attending in person but maybe better than not at all.

43
In the wardrobe / Re: What's your favorite sewing tip / catchphrase?
« on: September 10, 2023, 10:26:13 AM »
" Respect the grain "
" Do what works for, your fabric and your project "

44
In the wardrobe / Re: Oh f*** (Flipping eck)
« on: September 10, 2023, 10:00:50 AM »
Coat is just about finished . . . Buttons I like are £1 each and i need 5, that nearly as much as the coat fabric cost.
I get it - although I've made some things because of the buttons - like the carved buttons on this unlined coat. https://pin.it/wyTWtTx
 The ridged ponte fabric at £2 per metre was very inexpensive.  Wore the coat until it was past shabby and now the harvested buttons are waiting to become their next project.

45
In the wardrobe / Re: Use of fabric
« on: September 10, 2023, 09:47:42 AM »
its a tricky one isn't it.

Perhaps what you could do is pin the pattern pieces on for the top and skirt and if there's enough for both, cut out the top, but put the rest of the fabric away with a note of which skirt pattern you planned to use.  . . .

. . . For those smaller pieces which are left I like to make garments which combine fabrics, for instance a jersey back and silk front tee, shirts with contrast collars and cuffs or sometimes use them for nice bags/zipper pouches etc.
👏👏  Yes, well said. 

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