The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: b15erk on January 17, 2020, 09:15:02 AM
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I cut out McCalls 6696 yesterday, been meaning to do it for a while, but I hit a bit of a snag when I got to the sleeves.
The fabric is a pale blue/grey linen (my be linen mix), with a broad border which is a mix of embroidery and lace.
The sleeve is cuffed, but my original idea was to leave the cuffs off, and cut with the border at the bottom. Then, I decided I liked the cuff, so I cut the sleeve in plain fabric, with the idea of using the border for the cuff.
Unfortunately, the cuff is a very weird shape, and I really have no idea how I'll cut it.
Any suggestions? Bearing in mind that I only have enough fabric left to cut one sleeve with a border attached.
Jessie
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Can you not change the shape of the cuff to accommodate the border?
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You need to cut four cuff pieces, so one pair could be lace/edging and the other pair plain fabric. But, one pair needs to be interfaced. Will the interfacing be noticable through the lace? or does the fabric have enough body to get away with not using the interfacing?
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Can you not change the shape of the cuff to accommodate the border?
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I have made cuffs of a similar shape and I don't think they would look right if they were altered. The points/wings are designed to be on the outside of the arm.
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It might be possible to cut the pattern piece in half (add a seam allowance) and then cut each half piece to follow the line of the lace. The cuff seam would then match with the main sleeve seam. The cuff facings could be cut in one piece.
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Ladies, you have raised two very good points.
@Efemera , it was the wing shape of the cuff which attracted me to it originally, but you are right, changing the shape will allow me to show the border off much better.
@BrendaP , as always you have raised a point that I hadn't thought of. Yes, I think the interfacing will show through, so I will have to give the cuff some further thought.
I've got Kittenish Behaviour playing on YouTube, as she does a Sew Along of this dress. Maybe she will point out any other potential problems.
I'll be back!
Jessie
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Could you use the fabric itself as an interfacing?
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I'm wondering if you could use some sort of tulle netting as an interfacing inside the cuffs, so it would barely show but still add some stiffness?
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I watched the first instalment of Kittenish Behaviour's sewalong and was not impressed by her mentioning stay stitching the neckline after she had sewn the shoulders, yoke facing and then STRETCHED the neckline turning the 'burrito' right side out. >< However, eliminating the yoke is one of the several changes I intend to make to the pattern.
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@UttaRetch , I used this series, mainly to refresh my memory, as it's so long since I traced this pattern off.
I have made some alterations of my own up to now, and I'm really pleased with how it's looking.
After reading all the comments about these, I spent Friday evening trying out how to get all the elements to work. What I did eventually, was to cut out some of the lace insert, and arrange it on the top cuff. I used some iron on stuff to keep it in place while I stitched it in place. It's not perfect, and if it doesn't look good, I'll replace it with plain cuffs.
Jessie
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Looking for your opinions ladies. I've basted the cuffs onto the sleeves, but I'm really not sure whether I like them, whether they will look better when the dress is finished, or whether to replace them with plain cuffs now?
Is this cuff detail overkill? I tried it on my arm, and I know the picture isn't good, so might it look better when the sleeve is set in? It was difficult to hold the sleeve up, and take a picture at the same time.
Jessie
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I like that; you've done a good job there Jessie.
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I like the cuff with the lace on. It will tie in nicely to the lace edges at the bottom of the dress.
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I think that works well. Nice job. Go for it!
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That is Lovely! I really like that! @b15erk
Tim
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I don't personally think it's overkill @b15erk . If it's something you like then it will look great because you'll feel happy wearing it.
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Decision made! Thank you all for helping me to make it. :)
I found a blogpost online, and she said that the cuffs tended to bend outwards, so for me, that will mean a couple of tacks to keep it in place. I couldn't be doing with floppy cuffs...
Jessie
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What is your main fabric? The cuff is designed to stick out but should be ok with a crisp fabric Some silk organza would work for interfacing.
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I have interfaced it @Ohsewsimple , but it's linen/linen-mix, so very floppy. A couple of tacking stitches should hold it in place. The cuff meets at the long edge at cf sleeve, and I could see that this might happen, as the fabric of the cuff - being double, and interfaced, is heavier than the sleeve.
Jessie
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Ahh. Couldn’t remember what fabric you were using. If it works, go with it. I’m all for that! :)