The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: Sheeela_Shell on March 04, 2021, 06:49:23 AM
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Hello!
I'm new here. And quite new to making my own clothes.
Question
How do I finish the hem on a skirt which is thick fabric without it sticking out or becoming stiff
More Information
I have not used a pattern; I was trying to make the most out of the fabric I had.
I have included a very rough sketch of how the fabric was cut and assembled.
(I'll add the photos that didnt load properly to the comments)
I chose to finish the vertical seems by binding them in homemade cotton twill bias tape
I also tried to finish the hem with the same tape but its just making it stick out funny.
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I hope this images have appeared correctly, thoigh I doubt it. It wont let me preview and some just seems off
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Rough sketch
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Bias bound vertical seems
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This is how the skirt looked before trimming the hem and "binding" it.
It had quite a nice swish considering the weight of the fabric.
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@Sheeela_Shell I am not an expert but from what I can see you could get away with a really good press. You could have used the bias binding to make the hem by turning it up and hand finishing. I am sure someone will give you a better solution.
I like your fabric and well done for self drafting your skirt pattern.
Edit: @Sandra will help I am sure.
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The bottom edge appears to be hanging fine at the front where it is on the straight grain of the fabric. The waviness is on the section where the hem line is on the bias. That means that the bottom edge has much more stretch in that section. Together with the stretchy bias tape it has ...... stretched. If it is wool fabric you should be able to rescue it with steam but the lower edge is inevitably going to be a bit less drapey because there are now more layers of fabric.
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Good economical use of fabric! As @Silver Rose says, the seams need a good press with plenty of steam. You've made a lovely neat job of covering the raw edges but I think your tape is too thick & stiff. A Hong Kong finish on the seams would have been twice the work but with lightweight bias tape wouldn't have made the seams as stiff. The hem has lost its swish for the same reason. I can't see how you finished the hem. Generally, the thicker/heavier the fabric the deeper the hem. This allows the weight of the fabric to help the drape. I'd have turned it to the inside in one fold (at least 70mm) stitched a lightweight bias tape over the raw edge then slip stitched the hem up by hand. Or you could press the hem to the outside then machine lightweight bias tape over to give you the contrast band on the outside.Well done for making your own tape - did you weave it? If so it's only one thickness, but if you've made bias tape then the folds have made it too thick for swishing. You've chosen an ambitious project, in a challenging fabric, congratulations on your maths & design skills, I look forward to seeing your future projects.
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Hello. Welcome to the forum.
I'm not a dressmaker but I'm thinking that the binding on the hem is creating too much rigidity? It's a heavy fabric and the binding looks quite sturdy. The combination of the two is giving too much stiffness?
Maybe do away with the binding at the hem altogether and turn a hem up instead?
Ah... before posting I see Lachica's saying similar to me. :thumbsup:
Sandra.
xxx
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I would use the blind hem.
As said before your iron is your best friend... press at every stage of construction... makes the difference between handmade and homemade.
https://oliverands.com/community/blog/2017/03/how-to-hem-everything-woven-fabrics.html
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My first thoughts were a good steam press too, worth a try before doing anything else and failing that, turning up the hem using the binding as Silver Rose says. I think I would machine the binding onto the bottom and turn up just the binding as a hem.
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That's lovely!
As others have said, try a steam press before anything else.
Personally, although a turned up hem is the traditional "correct" way, I love the bound hem. If the steaming doesn't work, then could you try something lighter weight for the binding?
I often use "wondertape", a double sided washaway tape, to stop edges cut on the cross from stretching out as I sew, it's great stuff. It also doesn't often get washedaway before I wear something.
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Wow, thanks everyone :)
I shall try the steaming/ ironing.
On the photo on the dress-form, I had tried to fix the hem on one side (the side which has a nice wave... the other side tgats wonky is the original hem)
Below is a rough drawing of how I did the bias tape binding.
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I already had the cotton/polycotton twill
I made the bias tape it after seeing a handy tutorial online. The fabric is quite stiff though so that might be adding to the rigidity as Sandra has pointed out.
I shall try to keep you updated of my "progress" haha
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I think that the tape/binding is the problem. Some commercial bias bindings have a lot of starchy stuff in them which washes out but when new makes it very stiff.
Either try to wash away the dressing in the binding and then apply it or finish the hem without binding. A single layer will be less stiff than a double hem, so overlock or use a triple zig-zag close to the cut edge and then turn the hem up by hand, and give it a good press. If the fabric frays badly you could apply a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing all around the lower edge before turning the hem.
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If you Google 'Hong Kong finish' you'll see that bias tape encloses each side of your seams. Twice the work :scream: but it allows the seam to be pressed open & lay flat. Your method for the hem is fine but your bias tape may be too thick & stiff for the skirt fabric. Staystitching the hem before applying tape would stop it from stretching.
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If all else fails you could always do the 'no hem' hem with the line of securing stitches from the article that @Efemera linked to! It is a lovely skirt, and has a very nice drape apart from the hem. :thumbsup:
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@Sheeela_Shell that is very adventurous for a newbie! Well done !
I’d agree about using a Hong Kong finish on the seams next time if you want the edges bound. Use a lightweight lining so there’s no bulk added.
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Or line the whole skirt and then you won’t need a seam finish... better still buy an overlocker! :thumbsup:
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That's a great skirt. I agree with pressing totally. Makes such a difference. Also re the hem I think I'd use hem tape as the bias bound hem will be extra extra bulky as it crosses the already bound vertical seams unless you remove the binding from the vertical seams at the lower edge, of course.
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Beautiful skirt and definitely ambitious and well executed.
Agree with everyone on Hong Kong finish next time.
As for overlocker/Serger - been sewing 50 years and still see no need. Overlockers are pricey things, I use a triple zigzag on casual wear and always a Hong kong finish on woolens or unlined jackets. French seems work well on some cottons and linens and such. I like to purchase 100% silk mens neckties at thrift stores for hong kong finishes - adds no bulk and they are already cut on the bias.
Under normal circumstances in the past, I would ALWAYS use rayon hem tape on such a skirt, but all I can purchase here in the states locally is a brand called Wrights. Where Wrights used to be excellent rayon quality in a wide color range, colors are now limited and the new stuff is a dreadful - TRULY DREADFUL - 100% polyester disaster that crackles while you are using it as it is so hard - good luck getting a needle thru it (I always hand hem) and the color can bleed easily. Never had polyester do such a thing.
So if I don't have some vintage hem tape, I use the recycled silk. We also have access to something called "Hugsnug", but I've yet to go this route.
PS: the old rayon hem tape was single layer and cut on straight grain. Machine stitched to upper edge of turned up hem and then slip stitched/ blind stitched by hand at the top. The weight transitioned the hem finish nicely into the garment.
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Personally i love a frayed hem on wool fabric and would do a double line of small zig zag about 5cm from bottom and then fray the edge.
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@Sheeela_Shell Wow! Love your skirt.
I'm definitely on 'team frayed hem' and if I were you I'd do as sewmuchmore suggested.
Really looking forward to seeing what else you make. :)